CC 2544 5hr service !@#$

[JTKub]

I had some fun doing the 5hr service on my CC 2544 today. Not only is that mofo of a plastic engine oil drain valve a total POS, but it's near impossible to stick a piece of hose over the ½" hose barb with the allotted space! The engine oil drain sits directly on the engine mount cross-member and you only have an inch or so of space between the end of the hose barb and the frame rail. The (included) vinyl hose needs to make a drastic 90deg bend, which pinches off the oil flow and/or causes a serious hemorrhage as the hose wont seat on the barb this way !@#$. As I was trying to 'adjust it' the whole plastic 'valve' popped right off causing nice hot oil to run every which way, including on the PTO belt. It's a good thing only the dog was nearby to hear my use of the English language. It is hard to believe the only thing holding back the engine oil is that little black plastic ¼ turn sleeve and an "O" ring. With this layout, you cant even set the drain up with pipe nipples & elbows due to the lack of space, in fact, it looks as if you'd have to 'lift' the engine to get the brass part of the OEM (POS) drain valve off!! Beautiful design work here MTD. I got everything cleaned up and went on to change out the transaxle spin-on filter. This is an easy task, relatively mess & trouble free, but unbeknownst to me, you loose nearly the ENTIRE CONTENTS of the transaxle by removing the filter !@#$ Of course the new filter was across the garage when I spun off the old one. Out came over a gallon of ($$) CC transaxle oil. I know. I shoulda asked first! Word to the wise, take a minute to pull the deck out of the way before you drain the engine oil. It makes the cleanup easier. Oh..and have that new transaxle filter ready to put on before you loose too much hydro oil.
G/luck
Joel

 

[Mojoman]

hey JT, I did the same service (save for the tranny, thanks for the heads up on that one, I bought a quart of fluid and a new filter and in about 4-5 hrs I'll be ready to tackle that one) but I didn't have the OEM drain hose for it. So what I did was went to the local ace, and got a 1/2 i.d. clear flexible tubing, which works like a charm, it allows the oil to flow well without pinching. Maybe give that a try for next time.

As far as design goes, I think it's a kohler design fiasco. I originally thought it would be a good design, but we now also see where problems can occur. I don't understand how one can completely drain the oil with the plug on the side like that, it just doesn't make sense. Automotive plugs are on the bottom of the pan, why not on these? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[ducati996]

JTkub,

I know it wasnt meant to be humorous but I got a few chuckles from your story !! Its similar on the 3000 series
but not as bad when everything goes wrong at once /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Duc

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ..... but I didn't have the OEM drain hose for it. So what I did was went to the local ace, and got a 1/2 i.d. clear flexible tubing, which works like a charm, it allows the oil to flow well without pinching. Maybe give that a try for next time.)</font>

Yep. That's exactly what I got with the machine, it's about an 18" long pc of clear vinyl 1/2" id tubing. I couldn't get it to bend 90deg w/out it pinching off! If it had some type of rubber/vinyl elbow to pop over the barb, it would work perfectly. I still cannot believe how chincy that plastic drain valve is /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif.

Thanks fellas!
Joel

 

[Mojoman]

I agree on the valve, it's pretty flimsy, but I guess you just gotta be real careful /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
I got a piece about 24" long, and just put my drain pan toward the front of the tractor and let it drain, I didn't try to bend it straight downward, but I could see that a shorter piece or if you had the pan directly below the rail would cause it to kink.
One of those you can chalk up to an engineering oversight /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[cwarrix]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I don't understand how one can completely drain the oil with the plug on the side like that, it just doesn't make sense. Automotive plugs are on the bottom of the pan, why not on these? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif )</font>

I agree Mojoman, would have made more sense to put it on the bottom to drain better, but I'm sure Kohler had their reasons...

What I do with mine is pour a little (1/2 quart or so) of left over oil. You know the left over odd ball oil you have sitting on the shelf. Still new, but only part of a bottle. I usually end up with a few of these during the year. I just use some of that oil to run through the engine to make sure everything gets flushed out.

I also use a longer hose to drain the oil, works a lot better. Although it is not too bad on the 3240.

 

[cwarrix]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I still cannot believe how chincy that plastic drain valve is /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif.
)</font>

Hi Joel, I'm assuming the plastic valve on yours is the same as my 3240. I've been using it for about four years now (knock on wood) with no problems. When I first saw it I thought it was crap too, but it seems to be holding up fine so far, no leaks, no problems /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif More time will tell...

Chuck

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ... I've been using it for about four years now (knock on wood) with no problems. When I first saw it I thought it was crap too, but it seems to be holding up fine so far, no leaks, no problems /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif More time will tell...

Chuck )</font>

Yeah, I'm sure the plastic part is a available at CC dealers for a few bucks. I found out that it will pull right off of you tug too hard in the 'release' position /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. The brass part that theads into the sump is there for good on the 2544, unless you left the engine to get a wrench on it /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif!
Thanks
Joel

 

[Mojoman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What I do with mine is pour a little (1/2 quart or so) of left over oil. )</font>

That is exactly what I did with some of the new oil that I was going to put in the engine. I let 'er drain about 5 extra minutes once I poured the new oil in, until it looked fairly clear

 

[ratherbefishing]

I think MTD is pretty fond of that oil drain plug, as I saw the exact same one on the shelf at Lowes, but it was under another MTD label I think. Also found they have the CC oil & trans filters on the shelf (cheaper than local dealer). They were labeled for 1500/2000 models, but the mfg part numbers matched the ones for GT2544.