Cub Cadet Hydrostatic Oil

[Bob_Bainbridge]

The original question of this post was a search for a suitable replacement for expensive CC hydrostatic oil. My point is that a CC dealer is using HY-Tran Ultra, claiming it to be identical to CC hydrostatic oil plus. He is the one I will deal with if a failure happens during warranty. If he has no fear of CC testing using Hy-Tran Ultra, neither do I. Hy-Tran Ultra does appear to pour in a 30-40 weight manner.:thumbsup:

Is HyTran Ultra a synthetic oil? Drive System Plus is synthetic and I would be hesitant to mix the two if it isn't.

Bob B.

 

[ironhorse365]

Here is what I found on Hy-Tran Ultra specs:

TYPICAL PROPERTIES
Viscosity: cSt, @ 40ｰC 40
cSt, @ 100ｰC 6.3
SUS @ 100ｰF 208
SUS @ 210ｰF 47
Brookfield, cP @ -20ｰC 4200
Viscosity Index 103
Pour Point, ｰC (ｰF) -37 (-35)
Aniline Point, ｰC (ｰF) 104 (220)
Flash Point, ｰC (ｰF) 205 (400)
Specific Gravity @ 60ｰF 0.89
Zinc, wt. % Nil
Water Tolerance MT-805 Clear, 7 days
Filterability, Case MT-807 Pass
Foam, mL @ 200ｰF 10/0
mL @ 75ｰF 10/0
Oxidation/Corrosion MT-804 Pass
Shear Stability (ASTM D-5621)
% Viscosity Loss
1
Copper Corrosion ASTM D-130 1A

Seems to be a blend, unsure on synthetic, but doubt it is.

 

[Glassiches]

From my experience,
CC installed many completely different types of "Hydro" drive systems. Some of the so called "Hydro" drives are not pressurized at all instead they are simply a wet clutch system, responds like and is referred to as a "Hydro".
The fluid used in these systems is the same as used in motorcycle engines with wet clutches, exactly the same.

The fluid used in pressurized systems is completely different. I have never experienced any major adversities from using a variety of hydraulic or light engine oils.
The only problems I have related to lubricating failure is in the seals.
Either, the lubricant was "extended stay" or had an element that degraded the seal material.
All my other problems have been related to excessive or abusive use.

Bulk categorizing different drive systems to "Hydro" is not a good way to narrow down a replacement of anything.

Some systems are shared reservoirs with transmissions and differentials, some aren't.

These are just some examples or my experiences for thoughts to narrow this topic to just a single application.

Hope it helps.

 

[joelaudi]

Just wanted to add that when it came time for the 200 hour service on my 5252, it looked into different fluids [I like to save a few bucks when possible]. After looking into the Hydro Gear website, I decided to use Mobil One 20-50 motor oil. 36 hours later, no problems and I even think the trans sounds better and doesn't whine as bad. My tractor runs like it did when new. I have a hard time believing that CC drive fluid plus is that much better and is the only oil to use.

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

After paying $43 for a gallon of Drive System Plus over a year ago I decided to be brave and try a substitute. After studying all the posts here about the different oils I bought a 5-qt bottle of Mobil-1 10w40 for $26. I haven't used any yet - still have about a quart of the old stuff left yet. I have 380 hours on a 2004 3235 so don't have to worry about the warranty.
On a plus note - I still have the original battery (knock on wood). The tractor has been stored in the barn with no battery charging for the last 10 NEE Ohio winters and always started in the spring. I just recently bought a Battery Tender to keep a trickle charge on it this winter.

Bob B.

 

[jnelson]

Bob,

Oh no, you didn't! I think you had one of those rare forever batteries that never die until the owner goes and brags on it. I really hope for your sake it isn't so, but I fear you have just jinxed perhaps the only forever battery you will ever own. The alarming news is that statistics show that when someone does lose a forever battery, replacement batteries last only an average of 14.6 months between failures regardless of brand or model for the rest of their life. In other words I'm afraid you will be buying lots of batteries very regularly in the near future. People that become victims to PBFC (Premature Battery Failure Curse) learn very quickly that battery warranties such as 48 month, 60 month, etc., are prorated and not worth the paper they are printed on.

Some victims of PBFC report limited success removing the curse after repeated visits to a witchdoctor but most research shows that PBFC is a lifelong affliction for those that contract it. I wish I could tell you that I have found a way to undo your previous statement about your battery but it's kind of like trying to unring a bell. I hate to be the bearer of bad news like this but at least now you can be prepared with plenty of jumper cables, battery chargers, booster batteries, etc.

JN

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

JN, I made up for it yesterday. My 1990 Winnebago motorhome had no interior lights when I entered it a couple nights ago and when I turned the ignition key everything was dead there also. I found that both coach batteries( RV/Marine Deep Cycle) were dead and also the starting battery. My first thought was something must be draining them since I keep it plugged in by the house and made a circuit to trickle charge the engine battery from the 110v/12v converter. I put a charger on it and was able to start the engine the next day but still no lights. I found that the deep cycle batteries were both shot & were 5 years old, which is about max life span I ever get on them, and the 40A circuit breaker for the converter had tripped, stopping all charging. I looked up the starting battery & found I bought it at Sears in July 2001 (10 years old). I decided that one was long overdue also so I went to Sears and spent $320 for 3 new batteries. I hope that was the payback for opening my mouth.

Bob B.

 

[3rdbaseman]

I've read every response since this thread was started. Like everyone else, I am interested in finding a viable alternative to the CC hydro-trans oil. I've called around the country in my search and came across Cross Oil Packaging Div (American Oil) located in Arkansas. Their rep, who appears to be knowledgeable explained that his company supplies Tractor Supply, Auto Zone, and many other national suppliers with hydro-transmission fluid. He explained that CC owners use their hydro-trans fluid without complaints regularly. He claims that their products are rated for 300 hours before change. My CC 5234D requires that the hydro-trans fluid is changed at 25 hrs, 200 hrs and every 200 hrs thereafter. His company does have a synthetic hydra-transmission fluid (SynGard synthetic part # 592894), but it is a special order product by local retailers. I spoke with one retailer who says that I would have to buy an entire pallet if they had to special order the product.
Sidebar - Two years ago while assisting the company who cut down some trees on my propperty, my tractor ran over a branch. The spindle on the transmission motor snapped and the shaft broke. $2500.00 later .... I came to 2 conclusions. First, from now on, I refuse to help folks who won't move debris out of the way when I ask. Secondly, this machine is too expensive to complain about the differential in cost between the cost of the hydra-trans fluid vs bargain price product. The cost of the hydra-trans fluid is now viewed as insurance against the possibility an expensive repair in the future.
The fact of the matter is that I'll change the hydra-trans fluid every 7 years. In my area the current price of the oil is $50.00 per gallon. I need 5 gallons per change. The cost differencial is about $200.00 over 7 years which amounts to approximately $28.50 per year. That's not unreasonable.

 

[tracter]

In Australia we do not get the range of CC oils etc so the National Service manger here put out a bulletin that said " a premium quality motor oil with a minimum rating of 55 SUS at 210F and an API classification SG/CD"
A 20w/50 engine oil with an API of SG/CD is suitable and recommended for normal operating temps
I use a synthetic that exceeds that rating no problems

 

[LonnieB807]

Sorry to jump in the middle of a different subject. But a lady needs help sometimes.
My mother has a cub cadet 4 x 4 Volunteer We are getting an service code of CH6, can anyone tell me what that code means or how to prevent it from flashing.