LT 1046 leaving piles of grass question

[anthonyk]

I've got a new LT1046. I installed the mulch plug as directed.
Every time I mow it leaves huge lines of chopped grass, like stripes across my lawn. I'd hoped that by mulching I could avoid having to always throw the grass in one direction, but this looks terrible. Even if I go back and drive over the lines of grass clippings, it just moves them and leaves them again.
I cut almost every week so I'm only taking about an inch off the top, so it's not like I'm trying to cut too much at a time (I hope). /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif I have Bermuda grass if that matters.
Any suggestions? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

thanks, Anthony

 

[mark1]

There's been a lot of talk lately about decks not being adjusted correctly (level) Even new from dealers.Check your manual and see if it gets better? Let us know? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[JTKub]

Mulching quality/consistancy definately varies based on the conditions. 1" may be too much for your particular lawn + you may be cutting at too fast a ground speed. You could also try different blades.
G/luck
Joel

 

[TRD]

Got this off Cub Cadet web site:
It is likely that one, or a combination, of the following five scenarios is resulting in the uncut strips.
1) The wrong size blades have been installed.
2) The blades are installed upside down. *Please make certain that you have the correct blades and they are installed properly.
3) The blade tips are worn. To correct this, replace the blades.
4) Overlapping may be insufficient. The tires push down grass during each pass. If you line up your tires with tire marks from the previous pass, the grass does not get a chance to stand back up during either pass. Overlap more than the width of your tires on subsequent passes. This will allow the blades to draw up the trampled grass from each previous pass and should produce a nicer looking cut.
5) Making sharp right hand turns. Twin-blade mower decks are designed with the discharge on the right side and two side-by-side blades. The side-by-side twin blade decks have the left hand blade positioned slightly forward and in front of the right blade. This provides cutting overlap when traveling in a straight line. As a result, the tractor should mainly operated making primarily left hand turns when cutting. During left turns this cutting overlap is maintained. If turning right when, it is possible to negate this overlap and leave an uncut strip.
6) Improper cutting deck adjustment may produce a vacuum imbalance that, under certain circumstances, could cause the air flow to push outwards from front of the cutting deck. Most of our deck designs are of "free floating" design. Free floating decks should not have the anti-scalp wheels touching the ground when the tractor is positioned on level surface. Free floating decks should be adjusted so that the front deck lip is approximately 1/4"-3/8" lower than the rear lip of the cutting deck. This relationship and adjustment should be maintained throughout the cutting height adjustment range. If the nose of the deck is higher than the rear of the deck improper air flow underneath the deck may result. Improper vacuum underneath the deck can negate the necessary "lift" needed to stand the grass blades erect for even cutting. If the lawn has bare spots, or lacks a healthy lush character, this too can cause vacuum leaks, especially pronounced in the higher cutting settings where the grass blades are further spaced at the tips and vacuum leaks may become more pronounced. Please consult the tractor Operators Manual for specific Deck Leveling and Deck Engagement adjustments pertaining to a specific model tractor.

 

[aagitch]

I agree with JTKub that you are going too fast, the grass is not completely dry, or the grass is too tall for your selected cutting height. The mulch affect just doesn't seem to work as well on riding mowers. My parents have a riding mower like yours and didn't like the mulch option because you had to go really slow in order for it too work properly. I also don't like the side discharge deflector because that also makes the grass clump to the side. They use a rubber strap to hold up the deflector.

 

[anthonyk]

thanks for the tips. Unfortuantely, I already tried these things.
The mower is brand new, so the blades are sharp.
As for them being on upside down, that's a good one.
I'm not sure how to tell. They're on the way they came, so I can only assume they're not upside down.
The deck is balanced, and leveled. I did it myself. Interestingly enough, the directions in the manual actually contradict the ones posted here from their website. The manual says the deck should be level, measured from the blade tips. The website says the front should be lower than the rear. Hmmm /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I am mowing very slowly. If I go any slower, I'll be going backwards in time /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. So, I'm still kind of stumped.
I'll try lowering the front end and see if it helps.
thanks for all the tips,

anthony

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( As for them being on upside down, that's a good one.
I'm not sure how to tell. They're on the way they came, so I can only assume they're not upside down...)</font>

It's a little tricky since so many blades exist, but with them in the mounted position, the cutting edge should be the lowest part. Any curves/bumps/airfoils typically point up towards the deck. Having the deck very slightly nose down allows the blades to cut into the grass easier as well.
G/luck
Joel

 

[anthonyk]

okay, thanks. I'll check the blades and lower the front a quarter inch.

anthony /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif