Cub Cadet 1046 Oil Change - 6 Questions

[jpmorgan12]

Will the Cub Cadet experts out there please answer the following rookie questions:

1. How many hours can I go before I should change the oil in my new Cub Cadet 1046 (2005)? Some on this site say 10-12 hours, I think the manual says 25.

2. When should I change the oil filter. Every time I change the oil, or every other?

3. What is the proper Kohler oil filter part number for the Cub Cadet 1046. TSC sold me Kohler part # 1205001-S1, but it looks smaller than the Cub Cadet filter that came from the factory?

4. Once I've changed the oil, how many hours can I go before the next change?

5. How much oil should I add after draining the current oil?

6. Any tips on changing the oil?

Thank you! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Bob_Bainbridge]

My 3235 manual said to change the engine oil and filter after 5 hours and then to change both every 100 hours. My 25hp Kohler holds 2 quarts of engine oil.

Bob B.

 

[ccbob]

Hi,

I also have a new LT 1046, and in answer to your questions, I believe the following is correct:

1) I would change the oil and filter at five hours.
2) I don't know how many hours you will put on your tractor during a cutting season, but for the next two oil changes I would change the oil and filter again after each 25 hours. Like any engine, the most wear happens early. In a car, you have more wear in the first 1000 miles, than in the next 10,000 miles and it is important to remove the fine metal particles that result from the break in process. After this time, an oil change with filter at 50 hours should take you through the cutting season. Again depending on how much you have to mow. I like being conservative with the hours.
3) The Kohler oil filter part No. 1205001-S1 is correct for the LT 1046, but I plan on using Wix filters, part # 51056 after the second filter change. I feel the Wix filter is superior to the Kohler filter in construction and micron level. Also Carquest sells a "Blue" premium filter, made by Wix, which has part number 85056. When I have looked up the Kohler filter number, it seems that the -S1 at the end of the part number is not necessary and will cause problems in finding a cross reference filter.
4) I would not go over 100 hours on the oil/filter. Cheap insurance in my opinion.
5) Its a good idea to fill the filter with oil until it is saturated before installing it. This helps the engine from starting "dry" and will help in building up oil pressure faster. This is recommended in the owner's manual. I would add slightly less than two quarts and let the oil settle for a few minutes before checking the dip stick. Important!! When checking the oil level, the dip stick is first wiped off, then the dip stick cap is only placed on top of the oil fill tube, NOT screwed down as you would expect. Please refer to the owners manual as it points this out. If the remainder of the oil in the second quart is needed, add as needed. (1.7 to 1.9 quarts)
6) Change the oil when hot as after mowing. I use a small half gallon laundry detergent bottle to place the vinyl drain tube into when draining. Be careful after removing the yellow dust cap on the drain valve. You do not want to rotate the valve before the vinyl tube is installed or get ready for a real mess and or burn from the hot oil. The vinyl tube has a nice smooth curve that will bend into the laundry detergent bottle nicely. Make sure you push and turn the valve counter clockwise to open it.
Again be sure the vinyl tube is installed before you rotate the drain valve.
Hope this helps with your questions, and I hope you enjoy your machine as much as I do.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JTKub]

I'd do your first engine oil change somewhere around 5-10hrs. Then once a year or every 50hrs. Whichever comes first. Any quality off the shelf 10w-30 will do fine. I'm not sure about the oil filter size or orientation on the kohler courage, but there are a bunch of oversized (longer) filters that will fit the kohler command engines. I would'nt bother trying to pre-fill the new filter unless it mounts open-end up.
G/luck
Joel

 

[DmansPadge]

JTKub nailed it. Good solid info for nearly any lawn and garden tractor.

 

[anthonyk]

Here's a copy of one of my posts on this topic from a few weeks ago. It might save you some aggravation.
anthony

Posts: 208
Loc: houston texas



I just did the same thing as I had to do my first oil change.
I learned a valuable lesson:

The directions say to pop the drain cover. No problem.
They then say to attatch the provided hose and push in on the
drain plug while turning counterclockwise. Again no problem.
But then.... It says pull outward to release the oil.
What they fail to mention is that if you pull out with more than just a very slight tug, it'll pop off completely and you will experience the joy of watching your oil pour out on your barn floor.
Do NOT pull too hard on the oil drain.
Hope my experience helps you to avoid the cleanup I just went through!

anthony /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[sbatzold]

Cleaning my mower last night and noticed onthe back side of the air filter cover is a maintance schedual. seams starnge to me, they had soem hight hourly numbers to do stuff.

 

[JTKub]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Cleaning my mower last night and noticed onthe back side of the air filter cover is a maintance schedual. seams starnge to me, they had soem hight hourly numbers to do stuff. )</font>

The engine manufacturer and tractor manufacturer almost always quote different maint. schedule numbers. Follow the tractor manufacturer numbers, but once a year or 50hrs is always a safe bet for oil changes.
G/luck
Joel

 

[suziQ]

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one mentally challenged by the oil change apparatus on the cub cadet! My daughter (20) and I (her mom) changed tractor oil for the first time today. Our black top driveway is saturated with oil after the plastic port, when slightly pulled out, pulled out all the way. Why couldn't the oil drainage spout be directed downward so gravity could do its thing and go directly into a oil pan? I don't know, it just seems kind of intuitive, ya know? :confused2::confused2::confused2:

 

[Skyssx]

The only difference between the 12-050-01-s and the 52-050-02-S is the length. If you can fit a 52-02, by all means, do so.

Filter and fluid at 50 hours, or every year.

I use Shell Rotella in my OPE. It's an inexpensive quality oil.

Most wear in an engine occurs immediately after an oil change. This is counter intuitive, but supported by much data.