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  1. #1
    Platinum Member Fordlords's Avatar
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    Cub Cadet 682

    Default Cub Cadet 1440 Starter

    (reposted from l&g forum- I think there was a thread similar to this here a few months ago but I can't find it or remember the fix??)

    Hi all. I spend most of my time with the bigger tractors, but my CC 1440 won't start. Battery is good, voltage is getting to the starter, but it only groans and turns the engine just barely. I'm guessing worn bushings = high current draw, but need to get the starter out. Do you have to pull the engine? It looks like the bolts are unreachable in the chassis, darn it. Only 375 hours on this rig, very good condition, which makes me wonder why starter would be worn. Hoping for some advice here. Thank you.
    Jim
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    1980 Cub Cadet 682 with 18 HP Honda GX V-Twin engine
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Cub Cadet 1440 Starter

    Jim,

    I own a CC 1440 also; bought it new in '95, and have had the starter out.

    No, you don't pull the engine.

    The gear that engages the flywheel is plastic/nylon/fiberglass (something like that) and is a replaceable part. I've even seen that part sold at Home Depot.

    I agree. You have to be a magician to get at the one bolt. The CC dealer told me that Briggs makes a special tool just for the purpose. As I recall, the price was around $20. I learned that after my buddy and I already had the starter out. We used a flexible link socket to maneuver the socket into place and could just barely get a tooth of the socket on the bolt. Use the smallest socket drive & flex link you have -- or buy the $20 tool.

    Can't imagine why anyone designed such a thing.

    Keith

  3. #3
    Veteran Member jimmysisson's Avatar
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    1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)

    Default Re: Cub Cadet 1440 Starter

    Thanks Keith. I have been away, but the grass kept growing! I wish I knew it was the starter anyway. Just barely turns over, with good battery, solenoid jumped, etc. Anyway, I'd rather pull it myself than have the dealer have me by the --.
    So did you pull yours to replace the drive? I can just see the back end of it, and it looks like nylon.
    I guess I'll try harder.
    Thanks for the encouragement.
    Jim
    "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West

  4. #4

    Default Re: Cub Cadet 1440 Starter

    From the sounds of it I know what the special tool is. He's right about a flex socket. Goto to sears and buy a quarter inch universal for the bolt size. Can't remember if it's like 13mm or 15mm. Anyways, I already owned three sets of universal sockets. None of mine would fit at all. I bought the craftsman 6 point universal socket and it worked. It has a smaller profile all the way around compared to my SK, and or Snap-on sets. Hope that helps.
    Dave S.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member jimmysisson's Avatar
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    1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)

    Default Re: Cub Cadet 1440 Starter

    Thanks to all. I got the old starter out with just a 1/4" drive extension and 1/2" socket - slightly too big for the bolt, so it would turn at a slight angle. Bushings bad, worn brushes, armature had hit the fields slightly, so I ordered a new one. Odskaggs, I'll be picking up a 1/4" drive flex for the tightening - I won't have such good luck on the clockwise motion. Thank you.
    Jim
    "Anything worth doing is worth doing slowly" Mae West

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