No more plastic drain valve for me!

[JTKub]

I finally had enough with the OEM engine oil drain setup on my 2005 model year 2544. I'm still dumbfounded as to why or how Cub Cadet could let such a system go. I know softer, more pliable surgical style tubing can be had at home centers to make the stock setup work better, but tubing that can bend 90deg without pinching off still doesn't address the POS plastic drain valve itself. Here's what I did to make the system better:
1)One 3” long 3/8” pipe nipple
2)One 2” long 3/8” pipe nipple
3)One 90deg 3/8” elbow
4)One 3/8” coupling
5)Either a pipe plug for the coupling, or some sort of drain valve. I used an old, but unused John Deere brass drain valve that was OEM for our 1970 model year 110.
To gain enough clearance to remove the brass part of the stock drain valve, I had to remove the two engine mount bolts on the drain valve side, and completely loosen the two on the starter side of the engine. I carefully pried the engine up with a bar and shimmed it up with wooden shims. Prior to lifting, I kind of half-azzed marked the relation of the engine to the cross member, in the event things shifted. There didn't seem to be any lateral movement. I can only hope not as realigning wouldn't be too precise for the lesser talented like myself. I twisted the stock plug off with a big pair of channel locks. It looks as if a 7/8” deep well socket might work on it. I didn't have one on hand. Even with the engine propped up to as high as I could get it, I had JUST enough clearance from the crossmember to thread the 2” nipple with elbow in place. It's a tight fit. With the engine set back down, that elbow lays right on the cross member. Here's links to pics:

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture689.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture687.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture688.jpg

 

[VA_Joe]

Good job. The more difficult it is to change the oil - the less likely it is to get changed. Your extension definitely makes it much more user friendly (and more apt to receive scheduled oil changes).

Joe

 

[WillyS]

Great Installation JT! I have a 2005 2042LT, and have had a difficult time changing oil. I even asked the dealer "how in the heck do you change the oil on this tractor?" They weren't aware there was a problem until I showed them the problem on one of their floor models. They agreed that it was a pain! But they weren't about to change it to something like you did. I have to warm up the engine, run it up on a car ramp so that the engine leans toward the drain plug; stick that stiff plastic tube on it with the tight bend and let it slowly, very slowly drain out. I will definitely look at your pictures and see if I can do the same installation. Sure would save allot of time and trouble!!

 

[CitrusNorth]

Great Idea JTKub. I plan to do the same when the weather warms up.

 

[BiXLL]

This is one of those

why didn't I think of that mods

 

[JTKub]

...I plan to do the same when the weather warms up.

It's a must do on this particular engine/tractor. It was my 3rd and last time trying to mess with the OEM 'quick drain' setup. I see CC added a 2" nipple and elbow before the pastic drain on the 2006+ model year 2000 series machines. Atleast it's facing in the right direction now! One thing I forgot on my original post is; I used liquid teflon sealer as opposed to teflon tape on the pipe threads. I prefer the liquid stuff anyway, but it looks as if CC had liquid sealer on the factory brass part of the drain plug to begin with. I'd also used caution on those engine mounting bolts. I'd hate to snap off one of those alumium engine feet. Talk about an expensive mistake!

Joel

 

[OhioGuy]

Nice job JT.
That's one of those jobs you'll thank yourself for over and over!
Curt

 

[DieselPower]

Looks good. I have been using the Fumoto drain valves for years on medium/heavy duty trucks. A couple of years ago they started making them for small engines. Their new N-Series ones have a nipple built into them to stick a hose on. I stuck one on my Kohler powered compressor a couple of months ago and it sure beats the elchepo plastic one that was on there.

FUMOTO ENGINEERING

 

[JTKub]

I agree. Fumoto's are awesome. I had one on my last 4x4 truck. It made for a mess free oil change since I could route the hose over the front drivetrain. If I didn't have that old JD drain vlv on hand, I probably would have spent the $20 or so on a fumoto.

Joel

 

[TractorLarry]

That's similar to what my 1864 has from the factory.

Nice job!

Make a kit. Sell it

Bandaid's included!

-Larry

I finally had enough with the OEM engine oil drain setup on my 2005 model year 2544. I'm still dumbfounded as to why or how Cub Cadet could let such a system go. I know softer, more pliable surgical style tubing can be had at home centers to make the stock setup work better, but tubing that can bend 90deg without pinching off still doesn't address the POS plastic drain valve itself. Here's what I did to make the system better:
1)One 3” long 3/8” pipe nipple
2)One 2” long 3/8” pipe nipple
3)One 90deg 3/8” elbow
4)One 3/8” coupling
5)Either a pipe plug for the coupling, or some sort of drain valve. I used an old, but unused John Deere brass drain valve that was OEM for our 1970 model year 110.
To gain enough clearance to remove the brass part of the stock drain valve, I had to remove the two engine mount bolts on the drain valve side, and completely loosen the two on the starter side of the engine. I carefully pried the engine up with a bar and shimmed it up with wooden shims. Prior to lifting, I kind of half-azzed marked the relation of the engine to the cross member, in the event things shifted. There didn't seem to be any lateral movement. I can only hope not as realigning wouldn't be too precise for the lesser talented like myself. I twisted the stock plug off with a big pair of channel locks. It looks as if a 7/8” deep well socket might work on it. I didn't have one on hand. Even with the engine propped up to as high as I could get it, I had JUST enough clearance from the crossmember to thread the 2” nipple with elbow in place. It's a tight fit. With the engine set back down, that elbow lays right on the cross member. Here's links to pics:

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture689.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture687.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/mtpockets06/Picture688.jpg