A different bucket hook question

[jayhaitch]

I didn't want to hijack the other bucket hook thread, so I am posting this to get some help from all you experienced TBN'ers.

I've got a MF GC2310. I'd like to install bucket hooks for around the house use. I don't weld (sniff...) I'd love to learn, but no time. So.....

1. Bolt on or weld on?
2. Tow hook or grab hook?
3. Where on the bucket is the ideal place to install?

I bought 2 bolt on tow hooks, 10,000 lb rated, but the lip of my bucket is rather short, meaning the hook itself would stick out farther than the top edge. I could bolt it to the top angled part of the bucket behind the lip, but then any chain would be draping quite a bit over the top edge before it was free. The MF owners manual says not to back drag with the bucket at more than 45 deg, so I'm assuming it's not a good idea to lift heavy objects with the bucket at an extreme angle.

Is it better to install a grab hook, as opposed to wrapping a chain around a tow hook?

Can I install any type of the hook on the angled part of the bucket, or does it have to be on the most forward edge?

If bolts can hold up to 10,000 lbs, I don't see the problem with bolt on hooks, and I can do it myself. If weld-on's are hugely better, I'll get them installed at my dealer, but I'd rather avoid the hassle if I can.

Opinions and experiences please!

 

[3RRL]

Bolt on are fine.
I use grab hooks. I find them easier to use in hooking the desired chain length to the bucket hooks as opposed to hooking the chain to itself. I find the chain unhooks from itself more often before I lift whereas the grab hooks on the bucket stay because of the chain weight holding them in there.
I would install 2 hooks angle in slightly... one in line with each loader arm and use together all the time with one or 2 chains. Even my backhoe buckets have them like that.





As far as placing the hook on the back, not top of the bucket, that's exactly what I did. I didn't care if it scraped the top of my bucket. I found by having the bucket in a more "dumped" position when hooking up chains, It gave me both curl and lift to work with vs just lift.

The MF owners manual says not to back drag with the bucket at more than 45 deg, so I'm assuming it's not a good idea to lift heavy objects with the bucket at an extreme angle.
Not true lifting from that position, that is...
Back dragging in that dumped position places reverse stress on the cylinder rods...pushing against the rods in a weak resistance position with the rods being fully extended and exposed. They could bend more easily ...fold in half if you will or break when pushed upon in that position when back dragging.
However, lifting or curling the bucket from that position is a complete different story. This is a much stronger situation. They are designed to do that and the stress is linear along the length of the cylinder and rod. It is now being stretched out while sucking in instead of being pushed on or trying to get folded in half.

 

[GMtb42]

I agree with 3RRL about the hooks and placement as well , I find that having to uncurl the bucket to hook up is much better all the way around . On the L2800 I own I purchased a 2 3/4" dia. 1/4 wall pipe and reinforced the upper lip of the front bucket , that is where I placed the hook , L2800s are weak in that area of the bucket .
If and when I put a front trailer pull on I will again put it so the bucket has the be uncurled to use it . My 2 cents .

 

[MJPetersen]

Grab hooks are DEFINITELY the way to go. The adjustment factor alone make the grab hooks more beneficial. Slip hooks on a chain or when working with cables, or chokers, but for using a chain with hooks on a bucket go with the grab hooks wither bolt or weld on.

3RRL is right on the forces concerning the dump cylinders. You should not have any problems lifting with the hooks attached to the back of the bucket.

Mike

 

[jayhaitch]

Thanks guys. Two local places have no grab hooks, except for attaching to chain. I'll try a few more ag dealers, and maybe some trucking supply places. I appreciate your replies.

 

[dfkrug]

Jay, those 2 kinds of hooks are not your only choices.

I use 1/2" plate with a slot or slots cut in them, plus a backing
plate. Here is one I finished last week, installed on the back
center of the bkt. The painted version is hard to see in a photo,
as the black paint has poor contrast to the bkt.

I learned this from one of my excavator contractors....he used
multiple slots in the same bar.

One advantage over hooks is that the chain can be dropped out
of the slot after you take the load off, by just curling the bkt up.

 

[RedRocker]

AWDirect.com has weld on hooks.

 

[crash325]

See pictures in other post as well as this one.

Another option is a Key hole slot that a chain locks into. Pictured is a draw bar that I built of a neighbor. A ball can be bolted on, chain or chains fit through the slots, as well as a simple pin hook up.

 

[kco]

I posted this on another thread but will repost here. Sorry for the fuzzy picture but I no longer have the tractor.

I used ordinary chain grab hooks, put fender washers on each face of the bucket, and the nut for the bolt is between the clevis holes on the grab hook. The bolt continues up to the top clevis hole.

 

[kco]

Sorry, this picture should have gone with the previous post. My internet connection is really screwed up. Such are the joys of sharing wireless internet.