Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars

   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #21  
RobJ said:
Hey Jerry you have to post some pics of that set up. I like the idea. I don't have enoough room on mine to hook one of those up without some more fab work. There are 2 holes on the bottom of the rops bracket (always wonder why stuff like this is there or what its intended for) to come off with for a bracket. They would hang down a bit. Pics would be great when you are done!

Rob
I plan on putting a bolt through the swivel eye and then through the single plate from the tractor. I will post some pictures as soon as I can get it on. I am disabled now and can't do things like I did a few months ago.
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #22  
RobJ said:
Now I could have used those sooner!! :) Actually I saw the thread of the new Jima but didn't recall that in the pics.

Couple things that stand out, not surprised the lift arms have some added support, they look a little skinnish, maybe just the picture effect. But I do like the sway bar set up. Definately what JErry is going for I think. I'd have to weld another plate on the other side of my rops plate to get the proper support for the pin. Some type of shackel set up. But this is a nice set up with the swivels. Now the outside square tubing doesn't look to heavy either. How thick is that? Also can't tell if the inside piece is solid or not. Am I missing seeing a slot or is the washer covering that.

Good pics man!! Looks like I'm in for another redesign later this year!! But that's the fun part.

Rob
That Jinma is only a 28hp so it does have skinny drag links. Those stabilizers are tubing, not solid and there is a slot which is covered up by that washer.
Good eye.
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars
  • Thread Starter
#23  
3RRL said:
That Jinma is only a 28hp so it does have skinny drag links. Those stabilizers are tubing, not solid and there is a slot which is covered up by that washer.
Good eye.

I put a tape on mine, 5/8 x 2.5. But the big bend is down...not to the side like yours. Just truing to pick up something heavy. But only bent the right side.

I took a look at some steel I have on hand. Enough 1/2" plate to remake the bottom rops plate, then add the shackle to that. In due time that is!! Heading up tomorrow with my son who is out on spring break to check on the house and play some.

Rob
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #25  
One comment on the U-joints that attach to the tractor. I was (ahem) hooking up implements wrong and cracked the welds on both sides. I set it up so that the sway was stopped by compressive forces. (if it swayed to the left, the left side would stop it from moving while the right side still had play).

The right way is to set it up so the sway is stopped by reaching the limits of expansion. So, if it sways to the left, the RIGHT side extends to it's limit and stops sway to the left. The left side still has play in it at this point. Ditto for going the other way. The welds have been much happier that way. Live and learn, die and forget it all.


On the slots, I would think that duplicating the factory set up is good.
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Tried them out and they work great. I brought them back to paint and finish welding. I also finished the lift arm attachment piece. So nothing is welded to the lift arm, just bolted.

I also tacked together the replacement ROPS base in case I want to convert to the swivel joint. Not sure if I'm gonna mess with that now. It it the best time now since the grass isn't growing much and the garden is in.

Anyway steel I already had laying around so the cost was cheap. $250 plus to purchase the parts.

Rob
 

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   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #27  
Rob, they look sweet!
Looks like your project has finally stabilized.:D I like those shackles you are making too. The whole shebang should give you lots of support and stability now.
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #28  
They do look nice - congrats!

I would get a set of shorter pins for it. May not be applicable to your operation, but they would be bent quick and a real bear to remove.

jb

oh - We still have up to 2' of snow on the ground and it's snowing right now :(. The Snow has to melt off, the 4' of frost has to melt, the mud has to dry before any thought can be given to actually using a tractor. {jealous}
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars #29  
I looked at all of your pictures and you sure done a good job. I have one ? is the front swivels on both the drag links and sway bars in line with each other? By looking at the pictures they aren't. Did you get full travel with the 3 Pt?
Lee
 
   / Making Lift Arm Telescoping sway bars
  • Thread Starter
#30  
john_bud said:
They do look nice - congrats!

I would get a set of shorter pins for it. May not be applicable to your operation, but they would be bent quick and a real bear to remove.

jb

oh - We still have up to 2' of snow on the ground and it's snowing right now :(. The Snow has to melt off, the 4' of frost has to melt, the mud has to dry before any thought can be given to actually using a tractor. {jealous}

Yep I need to get some class 1 pins with the lynch pin, the ones I got ended up being to short so I got some bolts. The real long bolt was to mainly line up the holes before I welded the shackle pieces. Because the shackle is a bit wide and the swivel can slide back and forth, I'm going to get some class 2 (or 3) bushings and cut to size to keep it from sliding around. Right now I'm very happy with the way it is so I might not mess with it.

FYI I checked out the other larger tractors around the house last Friday. A 65+/- hp deere, no slots in the adjustment. Enough wiggle room. Actually the owner said he like the chains better especially for planting. Another bigger NH no slots either. So who knows what the different manufactors are thinking on that.

Thanks,
Rob
 
 
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