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#1 (permalink) |
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SE, MI
Posts: 18
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I'm building a landscape rake and have read tons on this site about gauge wheels and their benefit. If I understand it correctly the gauge wheels keep the implement from wanting to "dig in" due to the fact the 3 pt. does not limit down travel.
If this has been asked and answered before pls forgive the repeat question but why not just chain the 3 pt. to the desired height? On my BX1500 I have two holes under the rear fenders above the 3 pt. If I use chain through those holes and around the pins on the attachment to the desired height wouldn't this accomplish the same thing as gauge wheels? Only thing I can think of is it may be more wear and tear on the tractor since the chain is wanting to be pulled down by the implement and the tractor is holding it back and with gauge wheels all the force is essentially being taken up by the gauge wheels attached to the implement...takes the tractor out of the equation. Adding the gauge wheels is no biggie, just a bit more fab and welding but this has been a question that has been on my mind so I figured I'd ask. Thanks so much for the time, love this site. ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
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its my understanding that gauge wheels are used to keep from digging in when the front end of the tractor rides up a bump, thus driving the implement on the rear down. when you are on the back side of the bump, front end dropping raising the rear, and dumping the nice "load" of material you inadvertently scraped up at the start of this creating (or adding to an already bump)
so on the next pass it gets worse, rising up an even larger bump, creating an even larger valley behind you etc. as you can use the implement in the "float" setting, if you add gauge wheels behind, then they prevent the implement from digging in as the front end rises, (taking advantage of the "float" in the 3pt) chains would not limit upward travel only downward (as seen on some older tractors with no position control) thus thus of gauge wheels and not chains.
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Steve - TC33D 4x4 FEL, dual rear remotes with toys |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Boston & Martha's Vineyard, People's Republik of Massachusetts
Posts: 1,116
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as an aside, a lot of us have position control, or some variation, which does limit the 3pt down travel.
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---------------------------------------- Charles Kubota B3030 Kubota M59 w/hydro thumb Neat stuff - ATI Preseeder, Hydraulic PHD, Wallenstein BX62r Chipper, Millonzi Grapple, CA 4n1 Bucket. Delta Hook Rear QA system. Too many other random attachments to list (or to own, per my gf) and a really bad tool addiction. But at least I haven't bought a dump truck or bulldozer. Yet. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 9,496
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Gage wheels allow you to put the horizontal angle on your attachment and keep it.
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Egon 50 years behind the times Livin in a Worn out skin bag filled with rattlin bones |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Bronze Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southern Wisconsin
Posts: 79
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CU,
You'll be thankful of the time you invested fabricating gauge wheels. What happens to the rake when the front tractor wheel go up? Gauge wheels prevent that motion, a chain does not. Gauge wheels nearly eliminate the washboard effect. Joe |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Winchester, New Hampshire
Posts: 923
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For what it is worth I have a York rake that did not have gauge wheels and I had a hard time getting a good flat grade with it. I built a set of gauge wheels and the difference is like night and day. They keep the rake from dipping when the tractor front wheels go up or down.
I am thinking gauge wheels would be helpful on a rear blade also at times. Randy |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Elite Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Spring, TX (Houston)
Posts: 3,036
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Well I still don't see the big need, or at least everything I have done with mine has not been a problem. I posted some pics this morning in the attachments section.
for 1 my rake doesn't dig into ground. I was playing in some sugar sand this weekend and no problems. If the ground is hard, it won't attempt to even dig into the ground. Although it will move around a little material, it's not a boxblade. Even with gauge wheels, if it hits a somewhat solid bump, it'll drag right over it, it doesn't have a sharp cutting edge like my BB to cut it off. A 3pt that locks the upward motion would help a little. But most of the small tractors don't have much float control. JMO.. Rob
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L2500 |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 230
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Quote:
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JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, FEL Forks, Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 582
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All depends on whether ground is flat or not. I tried to grade out asphalt millings before my gauge wheels came in. Every time tractor front end dipped, rake came up and so on. Piece of cake with GW's. IMHO
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2007 TC40DA, Supersteer, ANBO Grapple Rake with WR Long Joystick rocker control, Landpride 72" Box Scraper, 84" Rake, 72" Disc Harrow,72" Spring Tine Harrow, 72" Woods Rotary Cutter, Pallet Forks, 60 gallon Cropcare 3-pt sprayer, 72" 3-pt chain drag,Vicon 3-pt spreader |
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