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#1 (permalink) |
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New Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 20
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Here is a pic of my new guage wheels for the BB on the JD 2520 I got last fall. Pic shows one side in running position and one side stowed. Initial tests were performed prior to paint and they seem to work nicely.
Thanks to all who have shared their pics and ideas for guage wheels. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
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Very good looking job. Very neat work. I also used a top link for adjustment, it works well. I do not have gauge wheels for my RBB but for the the RB that I made. I know that some call them "training wheels" but I find that they help to get a better job in less time.
How did you fasten up the wheel when it is in the "storage position?" I cannot quite see on the far side. Mike
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"In all your ways acknowledge Him and He will direct your paths" Solomon YM1510D, YM 1202 tiller, KK copy dirt scoop, imitation Gannon rollover box blade, and a Rear Blade with gauge wheels |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: clay co, ar
Posts: 132
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That is a great looking job on those. I have been wanting to do that on my BB and will be copying you idea. MJ it looks like to me that when the bracket is lifted the top hole fits in the bottom hole and a pin is put between both to hold them. I was looking and I think that I will take the wheels from my finish mower and use them on box blade. Thanks for the great picture and work. big dan
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#5 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Peyton, CO
Posts: 240
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Get good wheels. I used 500 pound trailer jack wheels and I have already trashed one. A BB with dirt adds up fast.
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Colorado Stan Kubota L3400HST, FEL, Rear Blade, Box Blade, Snow Blower, Brush Mower, Tooth Bar, Ballast Block, Still looking? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Gold Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Missouri
Posts: 334
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TractorTruck,
Great work! Notice you went with the solid tires. That seems to be the best way to go, unless you have really good quality air-filled tires available.
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Runner |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: S.W. Mississippi
Posts: 138
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[quote=MJPetersenHow did you fasten up the wheel when it is in the "storage position?" I cannot quite see on the far side.
Mike[/QUOTE] Looks as though the dimensions were ingeniously set up so that once the adjustable top link is removed the mechanism fits in the base holes. Not sure I would have thought that far ahead, likely would have just figured take it off when not in use, this is much better. Fine work. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Platinum Member
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I guessed that it was dimensioned so that it fit the link bracket, but then you have this link that you have to store until you need. Say you are out on a job and you rough it out with the wheels up right? then for finish work you want to put the wheels down. It seems to me that it would be better to put some extra bracket or something that could retain the link so that 1) it would not get misplaced
or 2) it would be at hand when needed. I agree it is a fine job and most useful, I would add a bracket to the wheel bars to store the link when not in use.Mike
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"In all your ways acknowledge Him and He will direct your paths" Solomon YM1510D, YM 1202 tiller, KK copy dirt scoop, imitation Gannon rollover box blade, and a Rear Blade with gauge wheels |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Silver Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: S.W. Mississippi
Posts: 138
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I agree with the storage of the links issue. I had thought about a hook and clevis setup, putting the hook on the end closest to the wheels and then put the left over pin through the clevis end. Guess I am explaning that correctly. The clevis would be set up and dimensioned the same as the link attachment point at the wheel end of the arm since that is the pin that would not be used once it was folded up.
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