FEL level indicator
- Thread starter ACHINBAC
- Start date
jimmer2880
Platinum Member
Would you mind taking a couple more pics of your setup? I think I like the simplier approach as well.
I had the stick inside of a tube on my old MF. It worked ok but I think I like your setup better.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,825
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
IMO the red LED indicating level would be the nicest of all.
I don't see how you get "more production with less effort" from that bent rod indicator. You both have to move the bucket to the indicated level and both use the fel joystick to do that, right? Does the bent rod make it easier to do that?
WaxMan
Veteran Member
Thanks Guys,
Well if I was going to make one again I would do two things different.
1) And most important Use a stainless steel rod so it matches the piston of the cylinder (shinny) and won't rust.
2) instead of cutting the marks where the white paint is , I would leave that high so that too would be polished stainless steel as the mark instead of white paint. I would just cut down the black area.
The reason I cut it down is so the paint won't wear off. I repainted the orange a while ago and wiped some of the black indicator off cleaning up the (not stainless steel) rod at that time and never got around to fixing it until today.
So if your going to make one , Don't make the same mistakes as I did.
I still would like 3 pilot lights in the cab instead. But I don't think I would want to drill three of those sensors in a row on the fel arm.
JB4310
Super Member
Rob,
I'm all for experimenting with new ideas, it's how useful things evolve, that's why I said "not to criticize the OP's efforts" critiquing the results should be encouraged here IMO.
So, I said it seemed complicated but I guess it really isn't, the main problem is with out the other green indicator lights referred to by Dave (ACHINBAC) in post #7, How would you know which side of red you were on? thus which way to move the stick. To be as useful as a rod indicator you would need to have a scale of lights.
As far as the More production less effort claim, I was not considering the light indicator, but was comparing to the straight rod and tube or those with no indicator at all. I do think the bent rod is an improvement over the straight, I've had both. JD engineering must agree, with the bent rod it kinda "drops" in making it easier to stop in the right position unlike trying to dial in that painted/notched mark. It's not night and day but it does take less effort......
I only care about my bucket attitude when on the ground, but how about this, for all those who want to know when their bucket is level at all heights, I'm thinking something like one of those tilt meters with electric pick ups along it's scale, mounted to the bucket, sending a signal to a full LED scale indicator on the dash?
Better yet, something built into the hydraulics where a level bucket could be achieved at any time with the touch of a momentary on button right on the joy stick. I suppose that would be a little to complicated.
JB.
wedge40
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,195
As everyone has pointed out so far.. Bucket level is dependent on the arm position. What is needed are two level indicators. One that show the position of the arms and another that shows the position of the bucket. And if you wanted to get real fancy some way to tie the two together. I have the bar through the tube and will paint mine in the spring. But I figure like the guys with a lot of seat time are saying, after awhile it just becomes natural. When we learned to tie our shoes as a child we had to look at what we were doing each time. I would hope most everyone could tie them in the dark now.
Wedge
Wedge
WaxMan
Veteran Member
The bent rod may drop in but you still have to fumble forward or back to make sure it's all the way at the bend, same amount of work with the painted line. I think the line is easer to see when you're on the mark then the bent rod. Plus it's seems that it would be harder to tip the bucket up or down a little off level, once out of the bend. Do you eyeball gauge 1/2 inch in/ out of the bend? I also think the straight tube has less of a stick and brush grabber without that long skinny unprotected rod flapping around. That is why I made the straight rod instead of the bent rod set up.
But this is all just my opinion and not fact. JD engineering must agree only because it's the cheapest way they found to do it, which is far better then Kubota's cheapest way, the bent piece of metal on the bucket.
Whether you have a red light, straight rod , bent rod or just using the top of the bucket, at the time of "hitting the mark" there is the same amount of finesse to hit the mark, pro non pro etc. Some people get great at hitting the bend, some at hitting the painted line, some at eyeballing the bucket.
Lets think of the guy that doesn't have a tractor and uses a shovel.
Either way we have it pretty dam easy.
Last edited:
OP
ACHINBAC
Silver Member
Wax, If I had done the rod method I would have done it exactly like yours with a stainless indicator (I have pounds of stainless on the BX from all my mods - every single bolt) - you have the most sano ("qualitay" as my teen son would say) set up I've seen yet.
In order for my light set up to register correctly, I have to dump the bucket past parallel (as in dumping a load) and then bring it up; the second the light comes on the bucket will be exactly parallel with the front and back wheels when the arms are dropped.
As others have pointed out, more quality seat time might eliminate the need for the indicator but tonight when I go out to get rid of the 10" we've gotten today so far (still dumpin) and my bucket top is covered in snow making it hard to visually register it, most of my gravel drive and lawn will still be intact when I'm done.
Dave
In order for my light set up to register correctly, I have to dump the bucket past parallel (as in dumping a load) and then bring it up; the second the light comes on the bucket will be exactly parallel with the front and back wheels when the arms are dropped.
As others have pointed out, more quality seat time might eliminate the need for the indicator but tonight when I go out to get rid of the 10" we've gotten today so far (still dumpin) and my bucket top is covered in snow making it hard to visually register it, most of my gravel drive and lawn will still be intact when I'm done.
Dave
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WaxMan
Veteran Member
Dave
I wonder if that is you in the picture? So that's how you come up with these crazy new ideas,
Good point with the bucket top full of snow.
A little off subject but here is another one of my projects.
My outrigger legs would drop after a few days on my woods backhoe. I didn't want to use a chain or bungee cord to keep them up.
So I center drilled and tapped the lower piston pin and drilled and tapped the outrigger leg. I used 1/2 inch stainless steel bolts which I machined the heads to minimize it from sticking out.
It's spring loaded to stay in place either in use or not. They work very well.
JB4310
Super Member
WaxMan,
You forced me to observe my indicator closely today while out moving snow, I will not argue which is better, I think yours looks excellent, I didn't realize you did yours from scratch, thought you just painted lines on original equipment, not familiar with kubota but assumed all manufacturers had some type of straight rod and tube like my older JD loader.
It's interesting, I never thought much about how/why mine's so easy. Reason being its more like it's an intuitive interaction, don't know how to describe it better, what happens is the rod actually moves in a different direction as it passes that crook in the rod, not 90 degrees different but enough to make it difficult not to notice when the bucket reaches level. Yes you can go past level and have to go back a bit like you mentioned.
BTW, I like the stabilizer locks, I"ve got a rope holding mine together while it sits stored.
The more I think about this I do believe an led indicator is probably going to be the way of the future for bucket level indicators.
Don't know that I agree with the idea that an indicator is not necessary for experienced operators, I wouldn't want to be with out one.
Dave, I hope that ski jump picture is a photoshop job!!!
jimmer, a couple of pics you asked for.
Keep up the good work all,
JB.
You forced me to observe my indicator closely today while out moving snow, I will not argue which is better, I think yours looks excellent, I didn't realize you did yours from scratch, thought you just painted lines on original equipment, not familiar with kubota but assumed all manufacturers had some type of straight rod and tube like my older JD loader.
It's interesting, I never thought much about how/why mine's so easy. Reason being its more like it's an intuitive interaction, don't know how to describe it better, what happens is the rod actually moves in a different direction as it passes that crook in the rod, not 90 degrees different but enough to make it difficult not to notice when the bucket reaches level. Yes you can go past level and have to go back a bit like you mentioned.
BTW, I like the stabilizer locks, I"ve got a rope holding mine together while it sits stored.
The more I think about this I do believe an led indicator is probably going to be the way of the future for bucket level indicators.
Don't know that I agree with the idea that an indicator is not necessary for experienced operators, I wouldn't want to be with out one.
Dave, I hope that ski jump picture is a photoshop job!!!
jimmer, a couple of pics you asked for.
Keep up the good work all,
JB.
