Aux lights

[Oasis]

Thought I'd start sharing instead of just reading>

Here's some add on lighting that I did to the JD 790.

Aux Lights: 2 fixed rear on fenders, 1 pivoting on ROP.

I added a sealed switch to the back of the large pivot light housing. Ran wire through ROP then exterior in flex wire wrap. I created the pivot base using washers (stainless and rubber). Some minor drilling/tap to ROP (one 3/8" tap for ss bolt, one 1/8" for wire chase).

Each rear light is on its own sealed switch. I decided to hide/protect the fender switches between the fender and ROP. Some minor drilling to fender (four 1/4" to mount two lights and two switches).

Checked tractor amp output and selected compatible lighting amps. All will run at once no problem.

Typical wiring/splice/and in line fuse.

Ordered lights through local auto supply. I believe all of the lights totaled about $50.

Sealed switches and rubber switch boots, wire... available at Mouser Electronics - Electronic Component Distributor I had all of this stuff on hand but believe quality sealed switches are about $10 each and boots are $5, wire and protection is another $10.

SS fasteners and rubber washers, wire ties...

So the total cost for this lighting system would be about $100.

Q. Why the lights?
A. We have hard winter winds here on the Oregon coast. I respond 24/7 to emergency type work of clearing trees from driveways...

My lights a seldom used, but when they are used it's a must have.

 

[bpattie]

Hi Oasis,

Lights look nice, would be interested in seeing more of how you are attaching your chain saw. i have a couple places I stash mine, sometimes just put it is the front bucket but looking for ideas for better solution.

 

[DonT-B7500]

OHOH Oasis: we're both in trouble, the safty police will be after us. I just did almost the exact same as you on my Kubota. On my ROPS I mounted two forward facing lights on top and two rear facing near the fenders. I used lighted toggle switches and relays so that they are all controlled by the factory light switch and each individual pair has its own lighted toggle switch.

 

[DonT-B7500]

OHOH Oasis: we're both in trouble, the safty police will be after us. I just did almost the exact same as you on my Kubota. On my ROPS I mounted two forward facing lights on top and two rear facing near the fenders. I used lighted toggle switches and relays so that they are all controlled by the factory light switch and each individual pair has its own lighted toggle switch.

 

[Oasis]

Bill,

I've hauled my saws a few different ways_ like most in the bucket, and on a 3pt rig. I like the current setup because I always have my saw on board and it is generally never in the way.

It's pretty simple. Just hang a Big Mouth carabineer on some webbing over the ROP. Hook the tail of the saw onto the bineer. The bar end fits behind the seat of my JD 790 and follows down the ROP. The saw needs some type of a case for this setup.

To get my saw I flip the seat up and unhook the saw from the carabineer then lift out the saw, case and all.

I highly recommend the saw case made by "True North". It's a heavy-duty nylon case that fully covers the bar and dogs (dog/muffler area is leather). The case has multiple pockets for files, tools, and wedges... I stuffed a 30" plastic bar guard (by Husky) into the bag which makes the saw easy to slide in and out of the bag. The bag has a web strap with Velcro to keep the saw secured into the bag at the handle bar. It also has a foam shoulder block area for hiking.

The bag is designed for fighting wildfire (which a did for several years).

This bag is great_ on or off the tractor. No I don't sell'm...

I got this one (for up to 30" bar) through fire work connections. I'm sure you could buy it on line somewhere. Google "True North" "fire fighter" "chainsaw"...

I've also hauled saws similar to this by hanging them and then bungee to the side of the ROP or diagonal depending on how big the saw is.

PS, I used a hollow piece of webbing to slide over the bineer hook to protect the saw plastic from the bineer alloy. I also added a shin pad to my ROP where the saw could clang into it.

 

[bpattie]

thanks for all the detail Oasis, that looks like a nice setup and yes having the saw with you is a good thing. Can't tell you how many times when around the property I see something that I need to cut, make a mental note to do it when I have the saw and then promptly forget.

 

[Builder]

Great lookin work Oasis. Did those lights come with sealed switches on the back? I like those. All I can find here are rubber tractor lamps with no switch. I have constant hot wires sitting behind my cab just beggin for something to be wired to them.

Can you tell me if they came that way, or you drilled the lights and added the switches?

 

[Oasis]

Builder,
No_ I added the switch here. It was very easy to do.

The lamp just pops right out of the rubber housing. Drill a hole. Mount the SPST toggle from the inside, wire the switch inside, then add the switch boot from the outside, then pop the lamp back in place. It's a 10 minute job.

The SPST toggle need not be a sealed switch in this case cuz it's protected in the lamp housing.

I like the switch here. It's fully protected, easy to reach and use without looking, plus I always want to grab the housing to aim the light anyway.

Happy trails,
Dave

 

[Builder]

Thanks, nice job.

Strange that nobody just makes a light just like that.

 

[medicshawn]

I know Kubota makes them with a switch on the light, but it's 100 dollars for one light.

I wanted to install some lights on my tractor and didn't have a good location for switches. I bought a waterproof single gang electrical box. I drilled a hole to bring the wires into the box, and 2 holes for switches.