Mounting Lights...Have Questions

[jgbanshee]

I have three 12V lights that I am mounting on my tractor canopy. I would like to supply power to them via 1 wire up ROP and then 3 separate wires. One to each light.

What is a clean way of splicing off the power supply to 3 different lights? Something like a terminal block or is there something else?

[Mike058]

You could get one of these 4-POSITION DUAL-ROW STRIP, 20 AMP | AllElectronics.com and a pack of these JUMPER FOR TS-200 BARRIER STRIPS | AllElectronics.com to distribute the power.

[medicshawn]

I just used a 4 way flat trailer connector.

[Oasis]

For a "clean" transition you might also want to consider simply soldering the junction of wires and then using an inch or two of "adhesive lined heat shrink tubing" (3:1 shrink works well for this). The material is inexpensive. You will have a splice that is stronger, waterproof, and 100% reliable.

See here_ Adhesive Heat Shrink : BuyHeatShrink.com : Adhesive Polyolefin : Dual Wall heat shrink

You should be able to find it locally.

[Big Bri]

I've used these and love them.
Wire Connectors utilize push-in design., Ideal Industries, Inc.

[mjncad]

I'd go with a terminal block like Mike has suggested. I use the jumpers that straddle over the terminal block's insulating fences as they take up less space.

[Soundguy]

as much as I like terminal blocks.. I'd second the option of the solder and heat shrink, with a lil rtv in the joint before shrinking...

soundguy

[gazoo1]

I LOVE TO USE QUIK CLIP CONNECTORS YOU CAN GET WATER PROOF ONES A LITTLE MORE MONEY BUT WORTH IT.THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS IS YOU CAN UNHOOK LITES IF NEED BE AND RE CONNECT .REMEMBER I.M TALKING ABOUT INDUSTRIAL GOOD QUILITY CONNECTORS

[Oasis]

Regarding sealing wires or connectors with RTV.

As "Soundguy" mentioned RTV is handy suff, and some would work fine.

But,

Many sealants are corrosive to wire and connectors. You can be sure the sealant is wire safe if it specifically states electronic grade or something like that. For example stuff found at MG Chemicals > Cleaners, duster, silicones, prototyping, epoxy, coatings, lubricants, thermal management and others are elec-grade.

Your home shop sealant (e.g. silicon) is almost certainly corrosive if it smells like vinegar.

I've wired a number of cop cars over the years and always soldered/heat shrink where ever I could. Never use crimp connectors (unless crimp/solder). Some push connectors are fine but use something like Permatexｮ Dielectric Grease here. The same stuff you use on your trailer connector, breaker box...

For a perfectly sealed connections something like this 3:1 double wall heat shrink tubing is great. Adhesive Heat Shrink : BuyHeatShrink.com : Adhesive Polyolefin : Dual Wall heat shrink
The 3/16" diameter stuff would shrink to 1/16" and creates a hot glue seal. No need for further tape or sealants...

It's very reasonably price @ $2.25 for 4 feet, which should be good for about 30 splices.

It's real easy to use just slip about 1" of the tubing over your soldered wire(s) and apply an indirect flame using a butane lighter. The tubing will shrink snug and glue will ooze out the ends in about 10 seconds. It's best to heat from the center out. You can protect nearby wires, paint... from your lighter flame using Renolds Wrapｮ.

*Not all heat shrink tubing is double wall and lined with adhesive. This type can be identified by its shinny interior surface. Also; some tubing shrinks at 2:1 but it's not as handy and the price difference is marginal for home users.

Sorry- probably boring you

[Soundguy]

can't imagine using non elec grade silicone 'caulk' for an electric purpose..

soundguy