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Old 10-26-2009, 08:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default hydro top link

Why is the hydro top links so much more than a regular tie rod style?
Any ideas on adapting the cheaper ones to the ball ends?
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Old 10-26-2009, 10:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

Good question. I just bought a 6' box blade and I can see why you need a hydraulic link. So why are they 150+ dollars when a conventional tierod cylinder is under $100?

I'm going to put a sleeve in the attachment end to run the 1" hole down to the 3/4" pin for the BB and then weld a top link swivel to the bare rod end of a TSC cylinder. That way I can get the lenght and stroke I need rather than settle for a part that's generally too long. Most H.top-links are 20" contracted.

Note that the $170+ H.top links have check valves to prevent leak down. BFD.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirt clod View Post
Why is the hydro top links so much more than a regular tie rod style?
Any ideas on adapting the cheaper ones to the ball ends?
First-You don't want a tie-rod cylinder for a HTL due to the limited room most machines have, a welded cylinder is best and it cost's more.
Second-I think they cost more because of the ball/swivel ends they have welded on, there is just not a huge market for cylinders with these ends-so they sell less units making the cost higher.

You can certainly get a regular welded cylinder and weld the proper ends on if you are qualified to do so...but most are not and happily pay the $$$ for the correct cylinder.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

I see the top links with no check valves for $200 and even more.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

Quote:
Originally Posted by zzvyb6 View Post
Note that the $170+ H.top links have check valves to prevent leak down. BFD.
To some it is a BFD...
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

found some cheaper. Any thoughts on these for my m5900 cat 2?

1) https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...item=9-7259-12
2) https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...item=9-7260-12
3) https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...item=9-7261-12

They make these in shorter strokes also.
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Old 10-26-2009, 11:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

I went the Surplus Center route, but learned that the cast part on the tractor was too narrow for the SC ball swivel to fit.

I bought the one that fit, and couldn't be happier. Shown before hoses connected, and before painting black.
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

Beenthere:

Your tractor looks like my 4200 with the Surplus Center cylinder. Mine came painted dark gray, so I left it alone. I just wish the rod was 1" diameter instead as the cylinder housing is just a bit big and rubs on my PB & SCV quick-connects if I'm not careful.

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Old 10-27-2009, 08:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

Quote:
Originally Posted by zzvyb6 View Post
Good question. I just bought a 6' box blade and I can see why you need a hydraulic link. So why are they 150+ dollars when a conventional tierod cylinder is under $100?

I'm going to put a sleeve in the attachment end to run the 1" hole down to the 3/4" pin for the BB and then weld a top link swivel to the bare rod end of a TSC cylinder. That way I can get the lenght and stroke I need rather than settle for a part that's generally too long. Most H.top-links are 20" contracted.

Note that the $170+ H.top links have check valves to prevent leak down. BFD.
My first hydraulic top link and tilt cylinders were tie rod cylinders that I welded new ends on.
I later upgraded to the cylinders with check valves. Well worth the extra price in my opinion. These cylinders work SO MUCH better than the tie rod cylinders I had.
No more leakdown and the top link holds its position much better when under load boxblading.
I'll take the welded cylinders with checkvalves hands down anyday.
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Old 10-29-2009, 03:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Re: hydro top link

I just got a hyd toplink that I have plugged into one of my rear remotes. I don't know how i did without it. It is fantastic for what you were saying , attaching implements, grading. and I just picked up a crane/boom where it helps with that . My valves on my remotes are sensitive so I can feather it for fine adjustments easily. I got mine through Dalton. Cost a little more shipping to Can. but it was worth it. This one does not have a lock valve but my remote valve has a full off detent and so far no leakage past so the cylinder stays where you leave it

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