I need rear ballast as a full bucket of dirt will bog me down with spinning tires unless I'm already headed downhill. My tractor is only a 2wd and I lose traction long before I'm out of power. I have a dead TO 30 fergeson that has wheel weights but don't know if there is anyway to get them off and adapt them to my TC55. I'm thinking that water/anifreeze might be a good choice as low temperatures tend to be no lower than the teens and most of the year it is warm to hot in central California. I'm a bit concerned about rim corrosion and was wondering if I should have tubes installed and filled to keep water away from contact with the rim. I'm not sure how much this will cost and if it would be possible to even fill the rims myself if there is a kit available. So I would appreciate some feedback on these ideas and advice on the best way vs the most economical way to ballast my tractor. I'm not sure what to do at this point but I know I have a problem that needs to ba addressed for safety and efficiency. Thanks, edge
Tire Ballast in TC55
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beenthere
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My suggestion would be to use windshield washer fluid (cheaper and more enviro friendly than anti-freeze) straight (don't cut with water).
Lay the tire down, break the bead on one side in one spot and pour the fluid in. Raise just the tire (blocks or jack and let the rim hang suspended) to get the top bead to close, and shoot the air back in.
The fluid will not corrode the rim.
Lay the tire down, break the bead on one side in one spot and pour the fluid in. Raise just the tire (blocks or jack and let the rim hang suspended) to get the top bead to close, and shoot the air back in.
The fluid will not corrode the rim.
I have a DX55 with R1's for tires, so it is the same as yours in size. Mine is 4wd though. I have 2 sets of wheel weights on, but when I am using the FEL for more than a quick bucket of something, I add a rear ballast. I made the rear ballast from a 55 gallon drum filled with concrete. That adds approximately 1000lbs to the rear and I rarely lose traction with it. do a search on here for "ballast" and you'll find a lot of ideas.
I decided on weights for the tires rather than filling them since I don't need the ballast most of the time, and the weights were a lighter compromise. Had I gone with filled tires, it would have been windshield washer fluid in the tires without tubes. That is what the dealer uses on all filled tires, and what the local ag tire shop uses too. I do have filled tires on my old Ford 850, which is also similar in size and 2wd. The filled tires are hard to beat for stability, but you can't temporarily lighten the weight if you want.
I decided on weights for the tires rather than filling them since I don't need the ballast most of the time, and the weights were a lighter compromise. Had I gone with filled tires, it would have been windshield washer fluid in the tires without tubes. That is what the dealer uses on all filled tires, and what the local ag tire shop uses too. I do have filled tires on my old Ford 850, which is also similar in size and 2wd. The filled tires are hard to beat for stability, but you can't temporarily lighten the weight if you want.
forester2
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Why not just install RimGuard. At 11-12#'s per gallon you get the ballast you're looking for plus no corrosion worries.
MtnViewRanch
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The last time I checked, there was no RimGuard available in Calif and the cost to have it shipped in more than doubled the cost.
jinman
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You haven't told us, but I'm assuming you have ag, R1, tires on your tractor instead of Industrials. If so, I'd bet 3 or 4 gallons of Sierra brand antifreeze would be plenty in your area. Sierra is propylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol and is not toxic. It normally sells for around $80 for a 6-gallon pack at many hardware or auto supply stores.
To fill your tires, rotate your tire so that the valve stem is at the top of the rim, and then remove the valve core to let out the air. Use a tire fill adapter for easy filling with water from a hose. To get the anti-freeze into your tire, cut a 3' end off an old garden hose and stick a funnel into the cut end. Tape it to make it secure. Attach the garden hose to the fill adapter and pour in the anti-freeze. As the tire fills, you'll need to relieve pressure with the adapter bleed outlet so you don't get a lot of bubbling back into the funnel. Do this before adding any water to the tire.
When you have all your anti-freeze in the tire, remove the funnel adapter and hook up your regular garden hose. Start filling with water. Stop filling once in awhile and press the relief valve on the adapter to allow air to escape from the tire. When you get to the point that you press the relief and only water comes out, you are done filling. Replace the valve core and fill the tire to the desired air pressure using a compressor as normal.
Now, your water inside the tire will be over the top of the rim and it will not rust much if at all. You don't have to worry about this at all for probably the next 30-40 years. You do not need to add a tube to your tire.
Repeat for the other rear tire.
Edit: Oh yes, you may still have traction problems, especially when you are pointed downhill and try to back up with a full bucket. I'd get a heavy boxblade or other heavy implement to carry on the 3PH. Unless 2wd tractors are really big ag tractors, they will always get very light in the rear with a loader. The more rear ballast the better when doing loader work. Carrying round bales on a bale spear can get to be a lot of fun on a tractor like yours. Always try to NOT go downhill when carrying a heavy load on the FEL. Backing down the hill is much safer, but even then, you have no brakes if the rear wheels become airborne.
To fill your tires, rotate your tire so that the valve stem is at the top of the rim, and then remove the valve core to let out the air. Use a tire fill adapter for easy filling with water from a hose. To get the anti-freeze into your tire, cut a 3' end off an old garden hose and stick a funnel into the cut end. Tape it to make it secure. Attach the garden hose to the fill adapter and pour in the anti-freeze. As the tire fills, you'll need to relieve pressure with the adapter bleed outlet so you don't get a lot of bubbling back into the funnel. Do this before adding any water to the tire.
When you have all your anti-freeze in the tire, remove the funnel adapter and hook up your regular garden hose. Start filling with water. Stop filling once in awhile and press the relief valve on the adapter to allow air to escape from the tire. When you get to the point that you press the relief and only water comes out, you are done filling. Replace the valve core and fill the tire to the desired air pressure using a compressor as normal.
Now, your water inside the tire will be over the top of the rim and it will not rust much if at all. You don't have to worry about this at all for probably the next 30-40 years. You do not need to add a tube to your tire.
Repeat for the other rear tire.
Edit: Oh yes, you may still have traction problems, especially when you are pointed downhill and try to back up with a full bucket. I'd get a heavy boxblade or other heavy implement to carry on the 3PH. Unless 2wd tractors are really big ag tractors, they will always get very light in the rear with a loader. The more rear ballast the better when doing loader work. Carrying round bales on a bale spear can get to be a lot of fun on a tractor like yours. Always try to NOT go downhill when carrying a heavy load on the FEL. Backing down the hill is much safer, but even then, you have no brakes if the rear wheels become airborne.
