Add-on Remote Hydraulics

[TeamNH]

Hey Guys,

I am not sure if this should go here or under the Hydraulics part but since it is custom work then I will put this here.

I have a New Holland TC34DA with loader and 8' woods backhoe and woods 5' box blade. I want to add two remotes on the back of the tractor for top and tilt system and to use one of them for a thumb on the backhoe when the top and tilt is not needed. I also want two remotes on the front loader, one for 3rd function for grapple, and the other for a bob-tach type system for the quick attach. I currently have one full flow remote on the back for the backhoe. I have 2 open spaces for remote controls on the right side of the tractor next to the 3 point lift control, which I would like to use for the remotes on the back.

I priced out the 2 remotes from the dealer and its going to cost $1500 - $2000...

SO...., I wanted to see if you guys did any of this custom, if so can you post pictures and advise! I am looking for pictures of your extra remotes & controls and setup.:thumbsup:

Thanks Guys!

 

[bjr]

I added two remotes to my Jinma JM354 for about $300. I used a generic Power Beyond 2 spool cylinder type valve. I had to bolt it on the ROPS. It works fine. bjr

 

[6sunset6]

I have the same machine. I bought it with two rear remotes and added a 3 way diverter to one of the ports. So I have 4 on the back . The diverter valve has a flow restrictor so 2 are permanent on the T & T. Snow blower uses 2 for the chute. Grader blade uses 1 for angle.
Logging winch uses high flow line for winch motor.
On the front I use a Fasse diverter for a grapple jaw.
All of the diverter valves are electric and run off buttons on the valve handles.
Not cheap but
I am very happy with the results. There are threads for all of this
. I will see if I can find them
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/106436-nh-240tl-loader-diverter-valve.html
I did not start this thread but added a lot.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/120482-selector-valve-2.html
If you want to automate the QA clamp you will need another valve. You could use a three way diverter on the curl line. You could do all of this with manual valves, a lot of hoses, it's been done.
Someone here did a QA clamp with an electric cylinder.
My final comment, there is no cheap way.

 

[TeamNH]

Thanks Bob, I have read thru your posts before. :thumbsup:

They are really helpful. I think for the front remote's, the 3 way selector 12v dc valve is the way to go.... BUT I have not had any luck finding any on the web, still looking thou.

As for the back, getting the factory remotes is probably best.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks Bob, I have read thru your posts before. :thumbsup:

They are really helpful. I think for the front remote's, the 3 way selector 12v dc valve is the way to go.... BUT I have not had any luck finding any on the web, still looking thou.

As for the back, getting the factory remotes is probably best.

Just search the term "diverter" or "grapple" in the Hydraulics forum-You will be reading for hours.

 

[6sunset6]

Fasse has 3 way remotes. They only sell through dealers. They have a web site
Farm Equipment Solutions | Fasse Valves
Edit I have no financial interest in Fasse but take look my tractor with grapple on the bucket is on their web site. They asked me last year if they could use the picture.
Cool.

 

[TeamNH]

Hey Bob! Did fasse use your picture or what? Check out the consumer part of their site, page 8.

 

[TeamNH]

How easy do you guys think it is to install the 2 rear remotes, the factor kit? I am pretty mechanical. Never worked on Hydraulics before but they seem straight forward. Just have to make sure all the hydraulics do not have any major pressure on them, am I correct?

thanks for all the replies!

 

[6sunset6]

I had a 1320 before the TC34DA I have now. I installed a single rear valve myself on the 1320. Easy but you have to take the wheel off.
Make sure the tractor is blocked up really well because you will be tighening down hydraulic fittings . I bought the TC34 new and had the dealer do it.
When you order the kit you should decide how you want to hook up the T & T and your implements. I hard plumbed the T & T using 37d fitting on the hose ends. I have plugs and caps if I need to take it apart. For implements, front and rear, you need to decide if you want to make the QD male and female or stay with both females on the tractor. The NH kits come with females on the tractor end. They are 1/2 iso A. ( I am pretty sure) I have had some trouble with NH males fitting into other brand females. A non functional diameter is maybe .005 to big. Anyway to avoid problems getwhat you need from NH.
The females cost more that the males but if you do male and female you can plug the implement lines to gether when detatched. keeps them cleaner and avoids temperature locking the QD.