About to cause an electrical fire...

   / About to cause an electrical fire... #1  

Perplexed

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2011
Messages
147
Location
NE Oklahoma
Well, I would like to avoid causing one :D I have a CCY SX3100 that I'll be using this summer primarily to mow three acres of turf grass, using a Woods rear finish mower. I'll probably be mowing around sunset when it's relatively cooler, especially in July and August, and I'll probably finish after dark. The CCY has headlights and "side" lights (actually, they point towards the front corners) - but no working lights in the rear. Just red tail lights and amber turn signals. That sucks, because I'll be backing up quite a bit and would like to see where I'm going in reverse. Don't care to unintentionally run over (or into!) something shreddable or dentable ;)

So, I acquired a pair of SoundOff Signal PAR36 LED work lights, one spot and one flood, both 500 lumens each. They're each 16W, with a current draw of 1.3A @ 12.8 Vdc. I'll mount one on each side of the ROPS, angled down and toward the rear, with the flood aimed at the mower and the spot aimed toward the immediate rear of the mower.

So far, so good. My questions, for you folks with electrical expertise, have to do with the wiring. The instructions say to run the red wire through a 5A fuse to a switch, and from thence to a +10-50v DC source. The black wire goes to a "reliable ground." I thought about tapping into the wires to the red tail lights, but realized I might want the option of the work lights working independently of the headlights and tail lights. I was wondering if it would be OK to run both red wires into one wire (with an inline 5A fuse in each wire upstream of the splice) to a switch mounted on the upper fender, and from there to the wire that supplies power to the 12V DC outlet factory-mounted on the lower fender. This outlet is wired to a 15A fuse in the fuse box. So far, so good... right? Or is someone now jumping in his chair and yelling at the monitor, "NO NO - don't DO that!!!" :p

I'm stuck though on what to do with the ground wire. Oh, I should have said I'm a total noob when it comes to electrical systems :D I'm guessing I could tap it into the ground wire that goes to the DC outlet? Otherwise, how can I determine whether this bolt or that bolt on the chassis is grounded, without using the work light to test for it? I'm concerned about blowing a fuse or, worse, the light, and I don't have one of those little test lights.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire... #2  
You need to make a circuit. In vehicles, it is very common for the whole chassis/frame/metal bits to be all grounded to the neg terminal of the battery. This is for safety as well as convenience. The safety part should be obvious, and the convenience part is what you described: instead of having to run the ground wire all the way back to the battery or some distant connection point, you just find a decent frame ground nearby and use it. Much shorter, faster, and less wiring.

Now you are working with DC so you only need to switch one leg. If you take the ground wire straight to ground, you switch the hot side as you have indicated. If you tap into the 15A fuse circuit (makes sure it is the output of the fuse, not the input if you want to use that fuse...). Your switch/hot side plan sounds fine, if I understand you correctly. Just run the black wires to a decent frame ground nearby and you should be good to go. It is hard to go wrong at 12V, and if it is all fused, then the worst you find out is you fried the fuse when you made your last connection. There really isn't much to i.

Happy night mowing!
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire...
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks for the input. As it turned out, the easiest thing for me to do was to splice together the hot and ground wires from each work light, then run the two (combined) wires down to the 12V DC outlet. I also put a 5A fuse into the hot wire, BTW. I stripped back a portion of the insulation off each of the two wires on the outlet, wrapped the end of the appropriate work light wire around the exposed portion and welded them into place, wrapped them up with electrical tape, wired in the work light switch, and it works like a charm :thumbsup:

Funny thing is, the two wires going into the DC outlet are colored differently than I had expected. The hot wire was white, and the ground wire was black with a red stripe. Or else the work light electrical diagram, which listed the black wire as the ground and the red wire as the hot wire, has it backward...
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire... #4  
What is the total wattage of both work lights ?
Gauge the wire size, the relay and the fuses accordingly.
Too big is not a problem, too small is !
If the total amperage is more than 7 or 8 amps then do not use the Aux Light Circuit on the tractor set up a new circuit with a Fused Line from the battery to pin 30 on the relay.

This write up may not be the best and the indicator light can be left out but read this and see if you want to do it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/196430-aux-lights-wiring-how.html

ltr/luck
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire...
  • Thread Starter
#5  
What is the total wattage of both work lights ?
Gauge the wire size, the relay and the fuses accordingly.
Too big is not a problem, too small is !
If the total amperage is more than 7 or 8 amps then do not use the Aux Light Circuit on the tractor set up a new circuit with a Fused Line from the battery to pin 30 on the relay.

This write up may not be the best and the indicator light can be left out but read this and see if you want to do it.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/196430-aux-lights-wiring-how.html

ltr/luck

I wish I had found your post before I started my wiring project - might have saved me some time and headache! :D

To answer your questions: the total wattage of both lights is 32W (they're LED's), total amperage is 2.6A, the wire I used is 16 gauge, and the fuse is 5 amps and enclosed by a water-resistant rubber housing. The wires are protected by flexible plastic tubing along their entire length. The switch I used has a little LED indicator light built into it that bathes the floor and fender with a bright blue glow, so there's no mistaking the lights being on when it's dark out. Also, the 12V DC outlet is enabled only when the ignition key is on, so no worries about the lights being left on and draining the battery.

Thanks for the comments :thumbsup:
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire... #6  
I wish I had found your post before I started my wiring project - might have saved me some time and headache! :D

To answer your questions: the total wattage of both lights is 32W (they're LED's), total amperage is 2.6A, the wire I used is 16 gauge, and the fuse is 5 amps and enclosed by a water-resistant rubber housing. The wires are protected by flexible plastic tubing along their entire length. The switch I used has a little LED indicator light built into it that bathes the floor and fender with a bright blue glow, so there's no mistaking the lights being on when it's dark out. Also, the 12V DC outlet is enabled only when the ignition key is on, so no worries about the lights being left on and draining the battery.

Thanks for the comments :thumbsup:

OK then not much worry with LED Lighting.
A relay is usually not needed but can be used if you want to.
2.6 amps is so low a std sw rated at 20 amps is way over kill.
The 16 gauge wire is big enough too rated at 10 amps.
Good Luck on your setup, sorry for interfering I should have asked what type of lights first.

As far as leaving the lights on you could use a relay for that, then you won’t leave the lights on but i there is already a circuit and it works I guess why not use it.

I will be looking into LED Lighting for Warning Lights but I am no sure how well they will work for flood/work lights.

Be sure to report back with night-time pics for the full affect.

ltr
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire...
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Oh, I didn't think you were interfering at all - I welcome any and all comments on my handiwork, such as it is :D I figured my setup was a bit of an overkill with the size of the components, but I wanted to be generous with the sizing and not have to worry about it especially when the tractor is working hard.

As for how well the lights work - they're great! I have the flood light angled to shine mainly on the rear finish mower so I can see at a glance if there are any issues with it or need to adjust something. The spill also goes out a couple feet or so to either side, so I can navigate alongside nearby obstacles. The spot light is aimed to illuminate the area up to 10' to the rear of the mower, and it illuminates obstacles far back enough that in reverse, I have ample time to stop or adjust course as needed. Of course the LED's don't produce as many lumens or have as much throw as incandescent lights, but I'm quite pleased with the effect :)
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire... #8  
Where did you get the LED lights and what was the cost? If you dont mind.
 
   / About to cause an electrical fire...
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Where did you get the LED lights and what was the cost? If you dont mind.

I got them off Amazon with a gift certificate. Here's a link to the 500 and 1000 lumen lights they offer:

Amazon.com: soundoff signal par36

They're priced from about $85 to $100, though with the GC, I got the two 500-lumen units for $100. They're very nice units with sturdy housings, and I'd buy them again in the immediate future. LED technology being what it is though, a superior product will be released for the same or less money, in a few months time. Just like with computers ;)
 

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