FEL Snow Plow

[radioman]

I gotta go out and measure to be sure but I think its a 7 footer. I been thinking of cutting a foot off- 6" from each side to shave weight and gain more pushing power in those thick,wet stuff. Since my tractor is a scut, any weight shaved from plow really helps.

LD1 is right- you need to angle the plow all the way to the pinned hole both ways to determine your final cut so you can make it as short as possible. The shorter the better to make it nimble and swift. If it too long, you just gonna be frustrated when making turns over time.

 

[JB4310]

I gotta go out and measure to be sure but I think its a 7 footer. I been thinking of cutting a foot off- 6" from each side to shave weight and gain more pushing power in those thick,wet stuff. Since my tractor is a scut, any weight shaved from plow really helps.

That's a unique set up :thumbsup:

It's not the weight, but the resistance against the snow. If it is 7 foot, then I think you would be much happier with it a foot shorter. Like you mentioned, you will definitely gain pushing power.

I cut a 7 and a half footer down to 6 and a half foot, which is just right for my 32 HP machine.

Lesson I learned from my neighbors little S-10 with a 6.5 ft plow. How well it pushed through heavy wet snow, better than my HD 3/4 ton pick up with an 8 foot plow.


ditzel, Why don't you want to utilize those angle cylinders?

JB

 

[Yooper75]

I wouldn't cut the frame down because you lose quite a bit of stacking ability. We run a 12ft ProTech Snow Pusher at work and because the bucket is about for feet ahead of the bucket pivot we can stack snow much higher with it. With our big loader we can stack snow 18ft or higher pretty easily.

Here is a picture of our John Deere 544E with the pusher on it. See how far ahead of the pivot point the pusher is? That's all stacking height.

 

[foggy1111]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

 

[lhfarm]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

Trying to do this now. Can you give me some details on the steel you used to build the extension (thickness, etc.). I'm not the best welder in the world, but I really like this design.

Thanks

 

[foggy1111]

Trying to do this now. Can you give me some details on the steel you used to build the extension (thickness, etc.). I'm not the best welder in the world, but I really like this design.

Thanks

IIRCC I used 1/4" x 6" C channel (with tapered legs) for the extensions. My build is recently shown under the snow plow section and is titled "Meyer Plow....mating to a JD300cx" Lots more pictures on my build on that thread.

I am happy with the outcome...but have not yet pushed snow with it. There are more threads.....search "FEL Plow" to see others.

 

[JB4310]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

foggy I know we asked you this before, but looking at that first picture, it looks like if you fully dumped the curl circuit your frame would interfere with the timing bar???

I'm trying to picture the movement, I know the frame is close to the pivot point which is the timing bar, but it sure LOOKS like there would be contact.

As I have commented before it looks like an awesome solid build though.

JB

 

[foggy1111]

foggy I know we asked you this before, but looking at that first picture, it looks like if you fully dumped the curl circuit your frame would interfere with the timing bar???

I'm trying to picture the movement, I know the frame is close to the pivot point which is the timing bar, but it sure LOOKS like there would be contact.

As I have commented before it looks like an awesome solid build though.

JB

Nope.....my gussets will clear the timing bar by 1/2" or so under any circumstances (actually its rigid at this point and nothing changes). Those gusset plates are fundamental to proving the strength to those rearward mounts. I dont want to have to do allot of wrenching to change buckets...as I want to be alternately attach my grapple or bucket too.

I can switch my plow just like a bucket....no tools.....only I have two hydraulic couplers to connect.

As a back-up plan I considered making a bolt-on bar angling to the rear frame if the gussets did not pan-out.....and on some loader set-ups this may be useful. But on mine.....the gussets worked out great! :thumbsup:

 

[TTTTTT]

Here' s the link to the way i did mine. I found an older 8' with good frame and cylinders. I made an adapter to attach the plow the the FEL brackets which can be used for many other attachments the video and thread show the valve and front remote install but gives a good view of the plow setup. It has worked great for a few years now and has great flexibility for other things. I left the A frame as was so it could be used later as intended

Hpe it helps

Dave

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/154201-front-qd-mod-plow-hookup.html

 

[ditzel]

Its been a while since I last posted on the progress of the plow set up. I did some cutting and welding about 2 weeks ago and finished it up today. Here are some pics.