LED Lights

   / LED Lights #42  
Saw the XK Glow ones and Northern tool. Pricey! The ones from Tractorhelp.com are $55 each right now.
I looked those up and there 27watt 2100 lumens the XK glows are 35 watt 2800 lumens.coobie
 
   / LED Lights #43  
I have noticed a lot of the web sites do not list the lumens. Not being an LED expert can one expect that the same watt LED from one web site to another is the same lumens approximately for comparison purposes?
The other thing is that some web sites state that the unit is shockproof etc and others do not and even on the same site a 27 watt may be shockproof but a 35 or 42 watt is not. Is this because they are not or is it a just lack of description space and attention to detail in the description?
I notice the difference in pricing between one site and another on the 27 W and again on the 50 W floods is rather large.
 
   / LED Lights #44  
I received my 50 watt flood light today and it is heavy and really well built.
Here are some pictures of the light: IMG_0554.JPGIMG_0556.JPGIMG_0557.JPGIMG_0558.JPGIMG_0559.JPG

I will get more pictures up once I get it all wired up.
 
   / LED Lights #45  
Here is a much better company than dealing with ebay/ chinese. They have a much better variety and pricing also. Similar chinese products but an american company to deal with direct over the phone or in person if you live in california.LOL Check out the prices on the HID kits also. I bought HID for my truck and they have been going strong for 3 years now.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/LED-Bulbs-Lights/Truck-ATV-Marine


Chris
 
   / LED Lights #46  
I just added 4 LED lights to my tractor for winter snow removal needs. I picked up 4 of the 27 W floods from seller "ledstores" on ebay. They sell the typical China stuff, but are based in the US so shipping was pretty quick. You have to specify flood or spot when buying from them or they will randomly pick for you. I assumed the floods were more suited for this.

Pictures are lousy as I only had my cell phone on me and it was getting dark when I finished. The brackets were a bit of a lucky find. The metal place had some alum 1/4" that had been bent into a shallow channel in the drops piles, so I grabbed one of those pieces and sliced it into 2, drilled a couple holes, and milled a slight recess so they would stay put on the ROPS. Basic flat alum bar plus bolts for the retainer brackets. I kept them all to the inside for door clearance as there was only an inch or two before and I didn't have much to spare. Basically 2 facing forward (the outer ones), 2 facing back, and they can rotated and adjusted as needed. Separate switches for forward and back sets ran directly off the battery on a new 15A fuse. Wires were run in split loom tubing up and around the back side of the ROPS using those zip tie mounts with foam tape on them. It is reasonably clean install and should do the job.

This should do the trick...

You can see the red light on the switch box inside the ROPS at the lower right. Only the front set is on.
IMAG0338 (Medium).jpg

IMAG0336 (Medium).jpg
 
   / LED Lights #47  
I posted about LED vs. Flourescents in another post but I was mainly asking about inverters. Wanted to give my 2 cents here though. I have 12V batts recharged by solar panels in a shop building in Virginia. I started with incandescent screw in bulbs but used alot of current and gave little light. (60W) I went to Flourescent, equivilent 60's and use 15Watt. These bulbs were blowing out within a WEEK...???? I have pretty much narrowed the cause to the solar charge controller when it cycles from 19V to 16V to 14.6V......the CFL's can't take that.
I bought LED's thru E-bay. Two different types, both screw in, both 6 WATT and both put out ALMOST as much light as the flourescents. So far they seem unaffected by the voltage changes. The two types are....1) normal looking screw-in bulb with 6 internal LED's about $18. 2)The other type is also screw-in but has a round, square shouldered base that protrudes like Capt. Video's "ray gun" (anybody old enough to remember him?) This bulb, also from E-bay, was only about $6.00. Both put out equal light and have survived voltage spikes. For household/barn use (non-mobile) hope this helps. Rob
 
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   / LED Lights #48  
Has anyone else found the tractorhelp.com website horrible? I've tried submitting an order for the past couple of days but it wont let me submit my payment to finalize it. The website is also extremely slow. I tried making an order on a couple different computers, different internet, and even my iPhone but all failed. I was going to call and place an order but they have no phone number? Heck, I don't even know where they're based. Someone said in the USA, how do we know for sure?

Anyway, just seeing if its just on my end or if you guys have found this true as well? I sent them an email but haven't heard back.
 
   / LED Lights #49  
Has anyone else found the tractorhelp.com website horrible? I've tried submitting an order for the past couple of days but it wont let me submit my payment to finalize it. The website is also extremely slow. I tried making an order on a couple different computers, different internet, and even my iPhone but all failed. I was going to call and place an order but they have no phone number? Heck, I don't even know where they're based. Someone said in the USA, how do we know for sure?

Anyway, just seeing if its just on my end or if you guys have found this true as well? I sent them an email but haven't heard back.


Just an update...

I heard back from Tractorhelp.com and it turns out they were having some server issues but its getting taken care of. And to answer my question about being located in the good old USA? Yep, in Ohio.

They look like a really good company that I would like to do business with and their response to my email was great. I thought I would pass the word on in case anyone else was having an issue with their site. Don't give up on them, their working on it.

Take care
 
   / LED Lights #50  
Regardless of what lights one purchases; put the nut/lock washer for both the vertical/horizontal adjustments in your scrap/junk/extra hardware box/drawer/trash can and use flat washers @ all locations lubed with just a finger rub of oil/light grease and lock nuts; tri-crimp interference style 1st choice, Nylock 2nd choice. This will allow adjustment without CCW rotation loosening the the nut as well as CW rotation causing binding/possible cracking of cast aluminum housings. Just a firm turn will make tweaking the aim easy and vibration will not change the aim. If after a few years the lamps are hard to turn, just loosen the lock nut a few degrees. Just a suggestion; it has always worked better for me on things that might need to be tweaked/adjusted at some point. On some applications a nylon oil drain gasket sandwiched between two flat washers works well where easier turning is desired.
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