Switching the hot leg is far easier, so long as current doesn't exceed capacity of switch. A couple of traditional lights can easily exceed switch specs. LED is less likely so.
That's kind of what I thought. Thank you!
Switching the hot leg is far easier, so long as current doesn't exceed capacity of switch. A couple of traditional lights can easily exceed switch specs. LED is less likely so.
I just ordered a switch from Amazon; GB Electrical GSW-11. It looks like it is rated 20A/120V AC and 10A/250V AC. This would seem to be plenty heavy for two LED lights on 12 V DC. Am I correct?
I don't know why, but I installed 3 LED lights on my little Case and all three burned out after about 10 hours of use. I replaced them with standard Halogen lights. They were great while they lasted.
I don't know why, but I installed 3 LED lights on my little Case and all three burned out after about 10 hours of use. I replaced them with standard Halogen lights. They were great while they lasted.
Plenty heavy indeed. However, that switch is not waterproof. May not be a show-stopper, but on a tractor I often use marine-grade switches in order to not fret should the tractor sleep outside.
Some tractors, like smaller Kabota's, do not have an alternator. They devices that they use to charge the battery puts out more of a pulsed D.C. voltage, and that is what burns out the LED's.
I just ordered a switch from Amazon; GB Electrical GSW-11. It looks like it is rated 20A/120V AC and 10A/250V AC. This would seem to be plenty heavy for two LED lights on 12 V DC. Am I correct?