led lights tying into factory lights? Kubota L4330

[mjncad]

Bandit:

I like it that you put plugs in the end of your square tubing light mounts, and added caps over the exposed threaded portion of your U-bolts. Now all you have to do to complete it is put the exposed wires inside some 1/4" corrugated wire loom to make it look snazzy.

 

[bandit67]

Bandit:

I like it that you put plugs in the end of your square tubing light mounts, and added caps over the exposed threaded portion of your U-bolts. Now all you have to do to complete it is put the exposed wires inside some 1/4" corrugated wire loom to make it look snazzy.

Being that the tractor was pretty new when I did the lights, I didn't want to drill the ROPS to feed the wires down inside the ROPS. So I wire loomed the wires and zip tied the wire looms to the ROPS. Four years later, the lights are still working great, and the wires have been protected from tree branches, held up to snow clearing during blizzards that soaked me through my supposed Gortex outerwear, etc. The bolt caps were to keep my noggin protected when climbing on and off the backhoe.

Here are a couple pics showing the wire looms running down the ROPS.

 

[mjncad]

Very cool Bandit.

 

[heviduty]

I have almost the same setup as Notforhire with the 4 X 27 watt led's, except I mounted them below the rops bar so low branches wouldn't whack them off. I, too, powered them off the 10 amp work light circuit, tapping into the wire right after the fuse and feeding an old style push / pull headlight switch mounted to the left of the steering column opposite the steering wheel. The forward facing lights are connected to the dash terminal and the rear are connected to the headlight terminal, so pulling the switch to the first position turns on the front lights and the second position turns on all 4. No need for a relay, the switch is rated 15 amps and all 4 lights are only 9 amps. I did have to run an extra wire for the rear lights but was able to fish it in the factory wire loom. Plenty of light, but they cause some glare on the top corners of my glasses, so I am pondering installing some sort of shields to the forward facing pair to eliminate the glare.

 

[pedalstomper78]

I have run two separate setups on my DX33 Case. I've had some "el cheapo" for lights mounted to my loader that I wired right off of the headlights and they worked ok. I just switched to LED lights from tractorhelp.com and they have worked great so far. Seem to give a broader light even if they don't broadcast as far. I switched as I didn't want to take a chance on cooking the alternator or any other wiring. Seems that even when I try to do it right, I cook something or another with the wiring. LOL

Love your bracket setup Bandit!!!

 

[ChrisC]

Being that the tractor was pretty new when I did the lights, I didn't want to drill the ROPS to feed the wires down inside the ROPS. So I wire loomed the wires and zip tied the wire looms to the ROPS. Four years later, the lights are still working great, and the wires have been protected from tree branches, held up to snow clearing during blizzards that soaked me through my supposed Gortex outerwear, etc. The bolt caps were to keep my noggin protected when climbing on and off the backhoe.

Here are a couple pics showing the wire looms running down the ROPS.

Where did you get the mounting hardware?

 

[bandit67]

I put the mounting brackets together myself. If I recall, all the hardware came from Home Depot. The square tube, the square shaped U-bolts, though it's possible the U-bolts came from my local Ace Hardware. The square tube comes in 18" or 2' pieces. I rattle can painted everything to match the Kubota Grey. You can find the plastic plugs & bolt caps at HD, or your local hardware.

I built them that way so that I had a number of options on how to mount the lights in relation to the ROPS.

 

[ST98]

I bought 2 12v Par-36 55 watts ATV/Truck/RV Utility Rubber Work Lamps (around 15$ each) and installed it on brackets inside the ROPS so it's not in the way when going in the woods. I connected it with the connectors that are located under the seat. I already had the Kubota 35 watts worklignt installed and connected at the same place. Since all 3 cables goes to the sams fuse that is 10 amps, I changed it for a 15 amps (35 watts + 55 watts + 55 watts = 145 watts / 12 volts = 12 amps). A 10 amps fuse is too tight for those 3 lights at the time but, since it only draw 12 amps when they are all on , it won't damage the wires. I have to admit that I never try letting them on for a very long period of time (hours). Hope it will help you.

Will the wires handle an additional 5 amps? It's a ten in there now and I'd like to raise it to 15 but not sure if the kubota wiring will handle it. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

what wire size? and is it bundled ot not?

 

[panchohughes]

I did something similar. However since my ROPS dont fold, i made some riser bars to mount to. Put lights on my Kubota BX 2350 - YouTube