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I just purchased a set of 18 Watt LED lights that I am going to mount to the ROPS for plowing in the winter.
I can't see ever using these lights separately from the stock factory lights. Can I just wire them into the factor lights so that when I flip on the factory light switch these new LED lights come on at the same time? This is on a Kubota L4330.
Or is there a better, simpler way to do this?
Thanks
At least on my B-series Kubota, there is a separate circuit from the fuse panel for "work lights" with wires that already run to the right rear fender (look for bullet connectors). You can put a switch in and power from that lead. That way you have a separate circuit and fuse.
If it were me, I would keep all the lights independent. I put a forward facing LED light on the rops, as well as a rear facing LED light on the fender. Each has its own switch, separate from the headlights. At various times, it's good to have just one of them running. Don't forget that the lights will also hurt your night vision, so you want the ability to only turn on the ones you need and not have others interfering. Get the ROPS lights well up above or well to the side of your field of vision.
Guy at work blew altinator on his Ford pickup...2010, I think. Was told the extra led lights he put on did it. Needed some kind of relay in between the lights and altinator. Just a thought to check into... I don't know for sure if there would be any trouble on tractor or not.
Because they're LED lights, I doubt this will be an issue. 18 watts at 12 volts is only 1.5 amps. His tractor has a 60-amp alternator. I wouldn't worry about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax12
I am in the process of installing four LED floods on my L3240. I intend on using the 10 amp work light feed that was suggested by S219. I'll post a photo when I'm done.
Bill
Check for various posts by 4shorts as he has more LED lights on his tractor than Carter has little liver pills.
That would be cool. The guy at work was blowing led bulbs, first... Then the altinator went. I'm glad that isn't an issue here.Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuabardwell
assuming wireing, fuses and switch are rated for the extra load.. parallel them. if not.. add in a solenoid to trigfger off the new lamps.. or if you want them bank switchable.. then a toggled solenoid.. etc...
this ones a 1 on a scale of 1-10... no real wrong way to do it....
Go for it. Stupid kubota engineers mounted M6800 headlights low, below the FEL bucket. The plastec lenses also faded milk jug white. I added two lights higher, inside the FEL frame hood guard. I clipped one wire in the factory harness that went to the factory high beam filament and wired it to the new lights. Now the low-high switch operates the factory low (dim) beam, or my high and bright beam which shine over the FEL bucket instead of into the bucket back. The work light circuit goes to the rear work light.Quote:
Originally Posted by nctacoma
Do it.
If you wire an LED backwards it it a short circuit. They conduct when forward biased, and glow when reverse biased. Be sure to observe polarity.Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax12