Homemade quick attach

[Chilly807]

I found this tip on another TBN thread, and it would have been really helpful to me during my build, so I thought I would dump it here: for aligning bushings like on a QA adapter, weld in the length of DOM tubing whole, then when welding on the part is complete, cut out the center, leaving behind the desired length of bushing. This basically guarantees that the bushings will align. Awesome.

True, but you'd have to have 10 times the amount of tubing you actually need, which gets expensive. I'd be more tempted to buy a length of round stock the same as the pin size and use that as a mandrel to hold the bushings aligned while welding is finished. If you're going to do that, welding the bushings in would be almost the last thing you do after the side frames are finished and the torque tube between the two of them is in place. If that was the case, having some extra clearance around the bushings would be handy for fine tuning. Maybe use a rotary file to make wiggle room in the bores the tubing will go in if needed.

I'm getting the urge to get started on mine soon, trying to resist until spring gets here and I can work outdoors.

Sean

 

[GPintheMitten]

I found this tip on another TBN thread, and it would have been really helpful to me during my build, so I thought I would dump it here: for aligning bushings like on a QA adapter, weld in the length of DOM tubing whole, then when welding on the part is complete, cut out the center, leaving behind the desired length of bushing. This basically guarantees that the bushings will align. Awesome.

That's a great tip.

 

[joshuabardwell]

True, but you'd have to have 10 times the amount of tubing you actually need, which gets expensive.

In this specific case, I don't think so, because you're going to use the "outer" part of the tubing for the bushings on the loader-side of the adapter, and the "inner" part of the tubing for the bushing on the bucket-side of the adapter. So you could cut the length of tubing for the loader-side, weld it in, cut out the inside, then weld that into the bucket-side. But yes, in other cases, it would add up like crazy.

I'd be more tempted to buy a length of round stock the same as the pin size and use that as a mandrel to hold the bushings aligned while welding is finished. If you're going to do that, welding the bushings in would be almost the last thing you do after the side frames are finished and the torque tube between the two of them is in place.

This worked very well for me. The only problem was that the pin would be juuuust a tiny bit tighter after the welding than before, as the tension from the weld took out the tiny bit of slack available. But it still was acceptable. I only thought of using the DOM tubing method above since it would involve the exact same number of inches of tubing, just cut in a different order.

 

[olekid]

I am impressed with the quick hitch for the LA302 loader. Would like to make one, saw the 4 pictures, is there any way you could send the measurements for the holes and all the pieces. (The plans)

 

[Buty]

I am impressed with the quick hitch for the LA302 loader. Would like to make one, saw the 4 pictures, is there any way you could send the measurements for the holes and all the pieces. (The plans)

I am also interested in seeing the measurements if possible.

 

[stuckmotor]

Nice!

 

[Chilly807]

I'm getting close to starting to build mine now, just some final decisions to make as to exactly how I want to go about it. I had a disc harrow project hanging around my neck like a dam* albatross, that's been eating up all my spare time but it's finally finished.

I found out the L3400 will easily lift the round bales we're buying to feed the horses this spring, so the QA will be a priority build before next winter, but I'd rather get it done now and have it out of the way. Alternately, if something doesn't turn out exactly the way I want it to, it'll give me some time for the re-design process before it's a critical thing.

I checked with Kubota, just in case it was more reasonable than I thought to buy the SSQA adapter. The adapter was $458, plus about another $150 for the plate for the bucket. I came really close to biting the bullet and just buying the factory made one, then it turned out that the SSQA adapter for the LA463 loader is NO LONGER AVAILABLE! At least, there is currently no stock anywhere, and no definite plans to build any more since the loader is now out of production. Plus even if I could get one, I'd have to butcher the existing bucket I have to take the SSQA adapter plate or buy a new bucket which didn't appeal to me much.

The adapter for the LA524 loader isn't the same part number as the one for the LA463, which means there's something different about it. My dealer wasn't sure exactly what the difference was, we both thought it was probably the bucket stops since everything else is the same on the new style loader arms. The new QA bucket is a different part number for the LA524 as well...

So, having committed to build the ATI-style QA, I got the DOM tubing locally. They had 1" ID and 1 3/4" OD (3/8 wall thickness) on the shelf, so it was an easy find for me.

I hope to have some final measurements made this weekend and order the steel on Monday morning.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

Sean it will be interesting to see how you get along with the SSQA build. I paid $400 for mine from a Kubota dealer, that was delivered by him to my house and he helped put it on. I bought a bucket too, but later modified my La463 pin on bucket and still have it as I let the new bucket go with the Kubota when I traded it. I still use the modified bucket a lot. I paid about $125 for the plate, and that included free shipping. I think these things are a bit cheaper down here in the states than up in the provinces. I felt it was money well spent. But I wish I had asked for the SSQA in the first place at the dealers lot. I would encourage anyone buying a tractor of 25 hp and up to seriously consider paying the small amount more for SSQA if it is available. I really enjoy swapping buckets and forks in a few seconds as my tasks change.

James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

It should go pretty smoothly, if there's one lesson I hope I've learned from this thread it's not to weld finicky things any more than I have to, or at least let them cool between stitches..

Part of my reason for going this way is A) I'm notoriously cheap, and this shouldn't end up costing me a lot to build. B) I can easily revert back to the original condition if I want to for some reason. C) I like building stuff like this and I want to find out if I can build it and make it work. And D), I already have a bale spear, but it's set up for a 3-point lift. If I want to convert it to a SSQA style I'd have to buy 2 adapter plates, one for the spear and another for my existing bucket, plus build a frame for the spear then weld the adapter plate to it, or just buy another SSQA bale spear already made. They're about $400 here, more than I want to spend for the amount I'll use it. I figure I can build the bale spear frame out of relatively cheap square tube, then weld four pieces of angle iron to the back of it to give me attachment points for this type of QA.

Sean

 

[Xfaxman]

.......... I already have a bale spear, but it's set up for a 3-point lift. If I want to convert it to a SSQA style I'd have to buy 2 adapter plates, one for the spear and another for my existing bucket, plus build a frame for the spear then weld the adapter plate to it, or just buy another SSQA bale spear already made. They're about $400 here, more than I want to spend for the amount I'll use it. I figure I can build the bale spear frame out of relatively cheap square tube, then weld four pieces of angle iron to the back of it to give me attachment points for this type of QA.

Sean

Two options, build a 3 point adapter, or put the adapter plate on the spear in such a way that you can still use the spear on the 3 point.

This is what I have, it fits either end! :thumbsup:

Right click picture to open in new tab


On the front SSQA.



On the 3 point hitch.