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12-13-2012, 10:56 AM #31
- Join Date
- Dec 2009
- Kubota B2620 (2012)
In my rope method.......the rope is quite longer than the tree. Thus with me in the truck and the other guy on the saw, the truck only guides the fall to start. It does not fight the direction and there is no tension on the truck.Kubota B2620 HST
12-13-2012, 01:29 PM #32
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Armstrong, BC
- Kioti DK35 SE HST (2011)
Where I don't need too much height to attach the rope and I can get the tractor to the tree, I climb in the bucket to attach the rope. Where more height is required I use my belt and spurs (from lineman days long, long ago) to attach the rope as high as needed. A timber hitch works well as it is easy to remove.
An advantage of a long rope is that it puts a lot of pat52rl's suggestion("throw a bit of nylon into the equation") into the equation. The 150' length means I can sometimes pull without the snatch block. But I'm in hilly terrain with winding trails so a snatch block is often required.
Most of my trees are straight forward and I can just fell the tree. But I always make sure my tractor is far back just in case it goes completely wrong. My dog is smart, she leaves the area whenever the chainsaw is running and returns once it's off.
A thick forest presents other hazards. One must be aware of existing dead branches and broken branches caused by felling. Check the canopy before you go back in. It is also not uncommon for me to misjudge and have a tree hang on an adjacent one after cutting. Watch carefully when skidding them out. If the butt snags on the stump or a root it can quickly stand the tree back up and perhaps over on to you. It isn't safe until the whole tree is on the ground.
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