Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11
    Super Star Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    10,593
    Location
    Northern Fingerlakes region of NY, USA
    Tractor
    Kubota L3830GST, B7500HST, BX2660

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    Quote Originally Posted by hosspuller View Post
    Will your top link fit through the mount? It looks close and can it swivel through the whole range of lift?
    From the bushings on the bottom links, I would guess that he has a quick hitch and as such, doesn't care much about the range of motion for the toplink.

    Aaron Z
    A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
    Robert Heinlein, Time Enough for Love

  2. #12
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,271
    Location
    Lee, IL
    Tractor
    John Deere 1070

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    Quote Originally Posted by sdkubota View Post
    I would guess the force of the concrete will bulge those sides. Don't under estimate the side forces. You could run 2 x 4s on edge outside the box to add temporary reinforcement while the concrete cures.
    you could also pour like 3" at a time and allow to cure in between layers

  3. #13
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    125
    Location
    orlando fl
    Tractor
    scag turf tiger 61" #2, gx95, sold f525 twice, f725

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    "Hopefully you are not mounting it on a CUT but I suspect you know your 3PH and tractor's limitations"

    You mean I can't use this with my 9hp rear engine lawn mower?? My owner's manual suggests at least 1250lbs ballast. Hitch capacity is more than 3,000 at the links, I believe it was about 2500 2ft out from links, so I should be fine.

    "The only other thing I can think of from what you've posted is how do you plan to secure your long hitch pin?"

    If you look at the second picture (I wish I had taken the time to highlight certain areas on the pictures and/or label them) there is a small (2inch) metal bracket that the 90degree bend in the long hitch pin will ride in. the corners of the bracket have been bent in for 2 reasons. It prevents a sharp edge from cutting someone, and will also prevent the pin from accidently popping out, as the bent tab acts like a small spring.


    "You might want to add clearance lights to it "

    Just wait till I am done, I think you will like it.....

    "As for casters... I simply built a H/D "furniture type" dolly from scrap rectangular metal tubing and fitted it with H/D casters.
    I simply lower the ballast box on the dolly, pull the pins and roll it out of the way."

    Thats already planned.

    Thanks for your time in writing all of the suggestions.

  4. #14
    Veteran Member Runner's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,682
    Location
    Missouri
    Tractor
    John Deere 2520, 1989 John Deere 185, 1960 Panzer T70B

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikehaugen View Post
    you could also pour like 3" at a time and allow to cure in between layers
    Just as a side note, I did mine this way, but for another reason. I lined the inside of my box (JD factory made ballast box) with sheet plastic, and then put a layer of sheet plastic between "lifts" of concrete as I poured. I did this for two reasons. First, so all the liguid wouldn't leak out at the seams, and, mainly, in case I ever wanted to get the concrete out, I could just smack each layer with a hammer a couple of times and remove it.
    Runner

  5. #15
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    7,913
    Location
    Bismarck Arkansas
    Tractor
    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    Those boxes are very strong, you don't have to worry about bulging sides. I would be concerned that your lift point steel is not as thick as it should be for that amount of weight but it is hard to judge thickness from a photo.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  6. #16
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    48,804
    Location
    Central florida
    Tractor
    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    if not casters, then at least feet maybee....

  7. #17
    Bronze Member 5picker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    93
    Location
    Western PA, USA
    Tractor
    TC33D Hydrostatic 7308 Loader

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    If you look at the second picture (I wish I had taken the time to highlight certain areas on the pictures and/or label them) there is a small (2inch) metal bracket that the 90degree bend in the long hitch pin will ride in. the corners of the bracket have been bent in for 2 reasons. It prevents a sharp edge from cutting someone, and will also prevent the pin from accidently popping out, as the bent tab acts like a small spring.
    Yep... missed that in the photo. Looks like you've got your bases covered.
    New Holland TC33D - 7308 Loader - 72" LuckNow 3PH snow blower with home built hydraulic chute rotation - 84" Woods RFM - 60" Woods Brushog - Home built ballast box - Home built landscape rake - 3PH post hole digger - Home built pallet forks - Home built receiver hitch - Home built soft cab - Home built boom

  8. #18
    Bronze Member Marcle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    96
    Location
    Herefordshire/Gloucestershire boarders UK
    Tractor
    Iseki 1240

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    From my own experience(*) I would coat the inside with a good rust preventer (Waxoyl in the UK) as the concrete will hold moisture which will quickly destroy the box!

    Not read all the posts, but putting some sort of lifting eye in the top middle can be useful (perhaps to pop through a hole in the lid).

    (*) Made mine from some large oil drums, the 'shell' quickly fell away
    _______________________________________
    One of my past projects >>here<<
    And another selection >>here<<

  9. #19
    Elite Member Zebrafive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,072
    Location
    South West MI
    Tractor
    John Deere 2030, John Deere 6415

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    Quote Originally Posted by hosspuller View Post
    Will your top link fit through the mount? It looks close and can it swivel through the whole range of lift?

    I would mount it empty on the tractor and confirm clearances. I didn't and had to take a cutting torch to my home made trailer mover.

    The mounting nuts inside the box. I wouldn't depend on concrete to keep them from turning without welding torque arms on them. Also, it looks like three nuts are stacked together. Do they function as jam nuts together?

    Mounting... looks pretty thin material. The mounts will have to lift a lot of weight and be able to resist dynamic side forces.
    I agree with hosspuller, concrete is not enough to keep nuts from spinning, if you plan to take the bolts out.
    John Deere 2030 JD 245SL Loader
    John Deere 6415 mfwd JD 640SL Loader

  10. #20
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    315
    Location
    guess where
    Tractor
    xyz

    Default Re: Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

    I'm no structural engineer, but based on the sizes of steel used on three point bale spikes made by King Kutter your lift bars for the lower links look a little small. Large round bales range from 1000# to 2000# and the sizes of steel that the lift pins attach to look to be 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick and 3 to 4 inches wide. I'd do some research before I fill it with solid concrete.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Ballast Box that Attaches to Box Blade?
    By robertwhite in forum Attachments
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-24-2012, 01:23 PM
  2. Buying loader - Ballast box or Carryall with box
    By tjwoody in forum Kubota Owning/Operating
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 11-22-2011, 09:57 PM
  3. Grading JD2305 Ballast box vs 48" box blade for ballast?
    By JDGREEN1 in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-18-2007, 10:40 AM
  4. Ballast Ballast/ Ballast Box question
    By elginfarm in forum John Deere Owning/Operating
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 07-18-2006, 10:12 PM
  5. Utility Storage Box replacing Ballast Box
    By LGinIA in forum Build-It Yourself
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-14-2003, 06:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.