Ballast box pre-pour, am I missing anything?

[aczlan]

Will your top link fit through the mount? It looks close and can it swivel through the whole range of lift?

From the bushings on the bottom links, I would guess that he has a quick hitch and as such, doesn't care much about the range of motion for the toplink.

Aaron Z

 

[mikehaugen]

I would guess the force of the concrete will bulge those sides. Don't under estimate the side forces. You could run 2 x 4s on edge outside the box to add temporary reinforcement while the concrete cures.

you could also pour like 3" at a time and allow to cure in between layers

 

[disney]

"Hopefully you are not mounting it on a CUT but I suspect you know your 3PH and tractor's limitations"

You mean I can't use this with my 9hp rear engine lawn mower?? My owner's manual suggests at least 1250lbs ballast. Hitch capacity is more than 3,000 at the links, I believe it was about 2500 2ft out from links, so I should be fine.

"The only other thing I can think of from what you've posted is how do you plan to secure your long hitch pin?"

If you look at the second picture (I wish I had taken the time to highlight certain areas on the pictures and/or label them) there is a small (2inch) metal bracket that the 90degree bend in the long hitch pin will ride in. the corners of the bracket have been bent in for 2 reasons. It prevents a sharp edge from cutting someone, and will also prevent the pin from accidently popping out, as the bent tab acts like a small spring.


"You might want to add clearance lights to it "

Just wait till I am done, I think you will like it.....

"As for casters... I simply built a H/D "furniture type" dolly from scrap rectangular metal tubing and fitted it with H/D casters.
I simply lower the ballast box on the dolly, pull the pins and roll it out of the way."

Thats already planned.

Thanks for your time in writing all of the suggestions.

 

[Runner]

you could also pour like 3" at a time and allow to cure in between layers

Just as a side note, I did mine this way, but for another reason. I lined the inside of my box (JD factory made ballast box) with sheet plastic, and then put a layer of sheet plastic between "lifts" of concrete as I poured. I did this for two reasons. First, so all the liguid wouldn't leak out at the seams, and, mainly, in case I ever wanted to get the concrete out, I could just smack each layer with a hammer a couple of times and remove it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Those boxes are very strong, you don't have to worry about bulging sides. I would be concerned that your lift point steel is not as thick as it should be for that amount of weight but it is hard to judge thickness from a photo.

 

[Soundguy]

if not casters, then at least feet maybee....

 

[5picker]

If you look at the second picture (I wish I had taken the time to highlight certain areas on the pictures and/or label them) there is a small (2inch) metal bracket that the 90degree bend in the long hitch pin will ride in. the corners of the bracket have been bent in for 2 reasons. It prevents a sharp edge from cutting someone, and will also prevent the pin from accidently popping out, as the bent tab acts like a small spring.

Yep... missed that in the photo. Looks like you've got your bases covered.

 

[Marcle]

From my own experience(*) I would coat the inside with a good rust preventer (Waxoyl in the UK) as the concrete will hold moisture which will quickly destroy the box!

Not read all the posts, but putting some sort of lifting eye in the top middle can be useful (perhaps to pop through a hole in the lid).

(*) Made mine from some large oil drums, the 'shell' quickly fell away

 

[Zebrafive]

Will your top link fit through the mount? It looks close and can it swivel through the whole range of lift?

I would mount it empty on the tractor and confirm clearances. I didn't and had to take a cutting torch to my home made trailer mover.

The mounting nuts inside the box. I wouldn't depend on concrete to keep them from turning without welding torque arms on them. Also, it looks like three nuts are stacked together. Do they function as jam nuts together?

Mounting... looks pretty thin material. The mounts will have to lift a lot of weight and be able to resist dynamic side forces.

I agree with hosspuller, concrete is not enough to keep nuts from spinning, if you plan to take the bolts out.

 

[namyessam]

I'm no structural engineer, but based on the sizes of steel used on three point bale spikes made by King Kutter your lift bars for the lower links look a little small. Large round bales range from 1000# to 2000# and the sizes of steel that the lift pins attach to look to be 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick and 3 to 4 inches wide. I'd do some research before I fill it with solid concrete.