KYErik
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2005
- Messages
- 893
- Location
- South central IL
- Tractor
- 1977 AC 7000, 1980 JD 2840, 1963 Case 930, 1963 Ford 4000, 1943 Case SC, Case 530CK backhoe
Factory conversion kits are about $1250 (too much for my liking). I got by spending less than $300 because I had some basic parts on hand.
This tractor was designed with 2 drag links coming from arms protruding from each side of the steering box (which complicated adding power steering- it would have been much easier if there was a stock tie rod and only one drag link). Without power steering, it steered OK when moving fast, but really hard when creeping along, and when stopped, it was a bear to turn the wheels, even after adjusting the steering box.
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Materials:
A double crank pulley (about $50 off ebay)- so I could run a PS pump and an alternator
Two drop type spindle arms- about $150 for the pair. (for running a single tie rod under the oil pan)
2 truck type tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves (about $50 at local auto parts store) I had to look in a huge catalog to find ends with the right specs
Scrap metal for building tie rod and cylinder end mount brackets.
A self centering type hydraulic steering valve and steering cylinder, pump and most hoses from an early 70's ford 2 ton truck- free from my dad who junked the truck a few years ago.
A new pressure hose running from the pump to the valve (about $30 at local auto parts store) I had to look in a catalog to find a hose with the right specs
A new PS belt (about $10)
I also converted the factory rear exhaust to a stack exhaust to gain more clearance around the pump and to stop gassing myself when I hitched/unhitched 3 point equipment and used my 3 point wood splitter.
I moved the alternator to the right side of the tractor so the power steering pump would be closer to the steering valve (shorter hoses)
I removed the right side drag link and I cut the left side drag link (it is hollow), expanded it and inserted the cut end of the steering rod that was attached to the hydraulic valve. I fabricated mounts for both ends of the cylinders that allow the ends to pivot somewhat so that the cylinder rod wont bind when the axle pivots.
It took a lot of trial and error to get the shape of the tie rod under the pan correct so that it did not hang down too close to the ground and did not hit the oil pan or steering cylinder when the wheels turned or the axle pivoted.
It is not pretty, but it works nicely- it steers like a riding mower (not as easy as a car, but easy enough to turn one handed at low speeds and when stopped). I think a higher GPM pump would make it steer as easy as a car.
Note: the new spindle arms are much thicker where they clamp around the spindle than the originals. The right front tire is 6.5 inches wide and rubbed the spindle arm, so I had to invert that rim for clearance. The left front tire is 6.0 inches wide so it barely clears the spindle arm as is. I have the adjustable front axle set at its narrowest setting.
This tractor was designed with 2 drag links coming from arms protruding from each side of the steering box (which complicated adding power steering- it would have been much easier if there was a stock tie rod and only one drag link). Without power steering, it steered OK when moving fast, but really hard when creeping along, and when stopped, it was a bear to turn the wheels, even after adjusting the steering box.
-
Materials:
A double crank pulley (about $50 off ebay)- so I could run a PS pump and an alternator
Two drop type spindle arms- about $150 for the pair. (for running a single tie rod under the oil pan)
2 truck type tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves (about $50 at local auto parts store) I had to look in a huge catalog to find ends with the right specs
Scrap metal for building tie rod and cylinder end mount brackets.
A self centering type hydraulic steering valve and steering cylinder, pump and most hoses from an early 70's ford 2 ton truck- free from my dad who junked the truck a few years ago.
A new pressure hose running from the pump to the valve (about $30 at local auto parts store) I had to look in a catalog to find a hose with the right specs
A new PS belt (about $10)
I also converted the factory rear exhaust to a stack exhaust to gain more clearance around the pump and to stop gassing myself when I hitched/unhitched 3 point equipment and used my 3 point wood splitter.
I moved the alternator to the right side of the tractor so the power steering pump would be closer to the steering valve (shorter hoses)
I removed the right side drag link and I cut the left side drag link (it is hollow), expanded it and inserted the cut end of the steering rod that was attached to the hydraulic valve. I fabricated mounts for both ends of the cylinders that allow the ends to pivot somewhat so that the cylinder rod wont bind when the axle pivots.
It took a lot of trial and error to get the shape of the tie rod under the pan correct so that it did not hang down too close to the ground and did not hit the oil pan or steering cylinder when the wheels turned or the axle pivoted.
It is not pretty, but it works nicely- it steers like a riding mower (not as easy as a car, but easy enough to turn one handed at low speeds and when stopped). I think a higher GPM pump would make it steer as easy as a car.
Note: the new spindle arms are much thicker where they clamp around the spindle than the originals. The right front tire is 6.5 inches wide and rubbed the spindle arm, so I had to invert that rim for clearance. The left front tire is 6.0 inches wide so it barely clears the spindle arm as is. I have the adjustable front axle set at its narrowest setting.
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