snow-blower chute rotation issues

[nsmithnd]

Curious if anyone might have ideas for a simple fix/modification for a binding 3 point snow blower chute.

The two close-up shots are not of the actual unit, but are similar to what I've got (seen in the "fuzzy" pic).
Instead of the 3 tabs holding the chute on, it has a split retaining ring which is installed below the lip on the snow blower end of things.
Then the chute is set on and the 3 bolts are attached to hold it in place.

The (sharp) bottom edge of the chute then rides on the lip (metal on metal).
Was thinking if the chute could be raised just a hair, and a set of nylon wheels attached to ride on the lip, things would rotate much easier.
Or would snow/ice build up and cause problems?
Maybe a matching lip on the chute end with an anti-friction ring (if I could find one - 10-1/4" inside diameter x 12" outside diameter)?

Also, the crank/cable mechanism is pretty bad.
Considering switching over to a chain and sprocket setup.
Or would snow/ice cause issues with chain as well?

 

[JerryK]

Nothing wrong with rollers. But if you clean the metal up, put a good coat of paint on it, then smear on some white lithium grease... you should be good to go. Keeping it inside out of the weather would be a big plus, too. A normal chute that gets some yearly PM usually has fairly polished metal surfaces and is fairly easy to turn. Only time there may be be some binding is when blowing a heavy stream of snow and the chute 'rocks' back a little from the force of the snow. Other times, it is just kind of sitting there and you can turn it with your little finger.... My JRW has the same ring it sits on, and turns just fine... My chute is about 12" in diameter...

 

[nsmithnd]

Thanks for the input, I cleaned the chute up with a flap disc and the paint is drying.
Will get it greased up and mounted to check it out before looking at any modifications.

Would definitely like to modify or eliminate the hand crank.
Haven't had it on the tractor yet but looks like I might not be able to reach it from the seat.
Your winch setup looks good, any issues with it? And is the roller spring loaded?

-Neil

 

[JerryK]

I built a hand crank for when I used the blower on my JD 2240, but went electric when I got my new tractor... so I could use it on either [ no rear hyd on the 2240 ]. I have seen several guys use springs, but I just modified the cheapo winch I used by adding another hole/set screw for the other end of the cable. Here is a link to when I did it back in 2001... It works great, but just about any thing you fab up should work. There is almost no load on the winch. You could maybe modify the crank, too. It doesn't take much effort to spin the chute if you keep it cleaned up and lubed.... Good luck, Jerry...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/214117-jrw-snowblower-chute-rotate-conversion.html


2011, not 2001.... [ type faster than I think... or think slower than I type... ]

 

[droptop]

Grease is the best if you take it apart to apply, but I just pour some bar and chain oil down between the sections. The bar and chain oil has some additives to make it stick better than regular oil. The downside is it makes a mess.

 

[Lloyd_E]

After the season use. I repaint all areas that need it including the worn insides of the shut. I oil and grease everything, tighten the cable etc. The only new thing I may try this year is to line the inside of the shut with plastic. Maybe an old kid's "crazy carpet" cut to size will work.

 

[nsmithnd]

Got the chute and mating surface all cleaned up and painted and re-assembled with lithium grease (as recommended).
Works great now !! Next step will be to get it mounted and see how easy it is to reach.

Thanks for the suggestions.
-Neil

 

[PILOON]

After the season use. I repaint all areas that need it including the worn insides of the shut. I oil and grease everything, tighten the cable etc. The only new thing I may try this year is to line the inside of the shut with plastic. Maybe an old kid's "crazy carpet" cut to size will work.

I have tried that and it does work, I did however have somewhat thicker plastic.
You only need to fasten the plastic at the bottom end of the chute, like 3or 4 ea 3/16" short bolts.
The sides are not as important as the back.

Like U I spray paint all bare metal with a rattle can just to stop rust forming. Once winter sets in and the 'rattle an paint' gets worn off we are down to shiney steel that in cold weather wont rust.
Deep rust is what causes the chute to clog as snow catches on pitted rusty metal.