Linear actuator for power SSQA?

[Fallon]

I've been getting kind of lazy swapping between pallet forks & my bucket. This has resulted in me dropping the forks once or twice because I forgot to latch down the SSQA levers.

Doing a setup like Power Bob-Tach Bob-Tach Attachment Mounting System - Bobcat Company would be pretty cool. I believe they usually only use one cylinder for tractor or skid steer type arms though.

I figure installing that hydraulically will be around $100 for the cylinder, $100 for the hose & a couple hundred for a diverter or valving. Hydraulics are going to be stronger than a linear actuator, but for this use case strength & shock loading really won't be an issue. If I can do it by hand, it's well under 200lbs of force & not going to be taking any impacts from a load like loader cylinders would or what not. Really it won't even need any holding force, as the levers hold themselves open or closed once thrown.

I've done a bit of searching & seen stuff for under $150, even when you figure in switches & wiring. which looks a fair bit cheaper than hydraulic options.
https://www.servocity.com/html/180_lbs__thrust_linear_actuato.html#.VBMqjPldU-A
12 Volt Linear Actuators, DC Linear Actuators and Waterproof Linear Actuators

Is a linear actuator going to work in this application, or am I missing something?

 

[J_J]

Yes, they will work fine.

I have seen several units converted.

I am planning using hyd for my locking pins.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...draulic-quick-attach-skidsteer-lever-lock-jpg

Surplus Center

http://static---panrack.app-hosted....s/skidsteer_quick_attach_adapter_parts__dsc30

 

[puckgrinder85]

This looks like a cool idea for a cheap price. I mean the QA is awesome, not getting off the machine to hook up the implement is just a bonus. Looks like they just hooked the actuator onto the existing pivot pins for the main pin on the SSQA, Im assuming the actuators have enough power to pull and push that handle over center?



The guy that made this recommended not less that a 250lb actuator.

 

[Fallon]

I finally got around to doing some research on a linear actuator for power/remote activation of your SSQA pins...

$60 China Ebay special

• Some of them have IP 54 or IP 65 rating which means they should be weatherproof (higher number is better, first digit is dust/dirt, 2nd is water)
• Some of them have adjustable limit switches so you should be able to set it to only do the 3.25" stroke needed as I measured on my Kubota
• None of these had a weatherproof rating though
• Generally topped out at around 300lbs of force, although many that advertised that later clarified they would withstand 300ish lbs of force, but would only apply 100lbs or so
• Most seemed to actuate at around 1cm per second, kind of slow
• 10 seconds or so to actuate the full 4" stroke
• Top out about 5@ of power usage
• Some note having an overload clutch, some don't

$300 option from lots of reasonably reputable places

• Rated 500-700lbs of force
• Usually IP 54 or 65 rated
• Usually has adjustable limit switches
• Seems to be in the ballpark of 1/2 to 1 inch per second
• Top out at 15-20@ of power usage
• Most seem to have thermal overload protection & an overload clutch

I just picked up a 4" Heavy duty 330lbs Linear Actuator multi-function for electric ,medical,auto Use for $54 with free shipping from China. It should be here whenever it makes it across the pond. I should be looking at few bucks worth of wire & switch. Probably an hour or 2 of fabbing up some brackets and a couple bucks worth of scrap or spare steel I have laying around.

I'm thinking I might be creating some artificial slop with an oval hole so I can get the 3.25" of travel out of a 4" actuator without bottoming out the actuator. Or I might see if I break things just bottoming out the actuator with 3.25" max of travel on at 4" actuator (I don't see a clutch noted on the one I bought).

I was planning on using momentary switch, but just realized if I used a toggle switch the non-adjustable limit switches should stop things before it breaks if I use the slop in the linkage to take up the extra 3/4". It might be nicer to flip the switch & wait for it to auto-stop after the 10ish seconds rather than holding the switch for 10 seconds.

It should be an interesting project to see if this works reasonably well. Depending I may look at the better actuator if this works well other than the actuator being of expected cheap Chinese quality.

 

[chopped]

Thanks for ;posting. Im following closely. Pics would be cool also if possible..

 

[Fallon]

Thanks for ;posting. Im following closely. Pics would be cool also if possible..

Will do, did some decent write ups for some other mods & projects I've done. The actuator is on the slow boat from China, so no progress on building anything until it arrives.

 

[a5t1]

Also interested to see how this turns out!

 

[varmint]

Fallon- I like this. I hope the power is enough for pulling and pushing the pins without the lever advantage. I like hydraulics for this, but might be too complicated and costly for the casual user. I did find a couple of small cylinders, but there are better choices out there, I trust.
PhD Hydraulic Cylinder 09628056 04 1206 AVP 1x1 2 B M | eBay

Opps- although they claim they are hydraulic, they are for pneumatics. But the idea might work... not with these, of course.

 

[Fallon]

I know linear actuators will work. Several skid steer OEMs actually use them (higher quality ones I'm sure). The big question is if my $54 one will. I know a 500lbs rated unit would & I heard somebody else say 250lbs should work. I haven't bothered doing the math on the mechanical advantage of the lever arm, or even measuring the force it takes to operate the levers for that matter. If it doesn't work I can reuse the actuator for other stuff, not sure if I'll bother shelling out for a better one if the cheap one doesn't work. I hear most of the times they use hydraulics they have to put in a pretty low relief valve so the hydraulics don't tear things up.

As far as cost I'm looking at $10 in wiring, maybe $10 of steel that I'd otherwise have lying around & the actuator. To do it with hydraulics I'm looking at at least $50 for a cylinder, probably another $50-100 in hoses & fittings as well as at least $100-150 for a valve or diverter. If I was going that route I'd probably plumb in a spare 3rd function as well as my SSQA circuit, which would probably mean a $250ish diverter.

 

[a5t1]

Varmint - this isn't directed specifically at you...


Our DIY projects always have to balance cost/time/effectiveness. My snowblower project took way to long to complete, but it really works well. It would have been another $1000 to add hydraulics to the system. I'm sure there'd be some gain but I'm not sure it'd be worth the extra expense.


These actuators are the same scenario. I'm sure hydraulics would work better per-say, but the cost factor can't be overlooked. That being said - I've also been guilty of trying to get by on the most inexpensive thing possible and have it bite me later. Again - balance.