Hurst loader joystick upgrade

   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade #1  

Jim Timber

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2014
Messages
1,442
Location
Metro/Brainerd, MN
Tractor
JD 5065e MFWD w/553 FEL
I wasn't happy with my added button on the joystick arm for the diverter I installed, and didn't like the little pear shaped factory knob either, so I made a bit of a change.

The lower part is female threaded 7/16" and will use a jam nut and some loctite to hold it's position on the factory threads.

2015-04-18%2020.50.22.jpg


2015-04-18%2020.49.30.jpg


I'll find out how good of a job I did noting the angles when I get back to the tractor Monday.
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade #2  
Nice, does it wanna make you step on the clutch when you grab that.:p
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I'll find out tomorrow. :D

The finger grooves and thumb button placement are very natural. I just hope I got the angles right since I took measurements before getting the handle and made the adapter 110 miles away from the tractor.
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade #4  
It should improve your lap times in the field! Nice job! :thumbsup:
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Still need to wire it in, but I like the feel of it.

.
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade #7  
Nice job ... looks good :thumbsup:

I thought about going that route for my diverter valve set up but just couldn't wrap my head around it ... probably has a lot to do with where my valve/joystick is (out in front) ... opted for the Hurst ball with a button instead.
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade #8  
Nice mod. I did a similar mod, but bought a Sure grip brand joystick to replace my factory knob and button switch. Mine comes with an actual trigger I pull to engage for grapple open/close or plow left or right swing.
Link:Sure Grip Controls
 
   / Hurst loader joystick upgrade
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks guys!

I don't think I'd like the trigger switch location, personally. Just a preference thing, and might have to do with some nerve damage I have in my hands.

Before I decided to go with the diverter, I was going to have a second lever off the fender for the grapple's valve and would've swapped the shift knob out for a billiards ball like I did on my atv's shifter (the stock pear shaped JD knob is terrible). I was also really looking at going with a T-handle, but didn't like how the levers were threaded, or how the wiring was handled on the ones I found locally. Sure, I could've made one, but not for the time investment the $52 Hurst one cost me. Anodizing is a $25 minimum lot charge here, and it's needed unless you like blackened hands (not that there's anything wrong with that), or want to retouch the clear coat every few months. In the end, the pistol grip just won out. I had also found the Hurst's sans-button locally and it fits my hand perfectly. With the angles I came up with off the machine, I was able to set the grip's angle perfectly for my ergonomics. I actually find it easier to hit the curl/dump circuit now than with the factory knob poking out at an odd angle. The grip is tilted ever so slightly left of vertical for a nice wrist angle, but the "blade" for lack of a better term is in line with the two axes of the valve controls now. It's very natural to throw your arm and hit the right spots. The down side is that sneaking around that thing doesn't happen anymore - but even that's ok, since I'd planned to put chainsaws and tools over there anyway. :)
 
 
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