Adding a fuse to a Kubota fuse block or other options?

[dstig1]

I think I know what you want, and I did it once. IIRC, The kubota fuse block feeds power to all the slots on one side, and then there is another socket/terminal on the other side of the blade for active circuits that they actually installed. It either has a contact/socket or is blank on the load side. So you need to come up with a way to make a "blade socket" for the one side, and you can add a circuit easily. It was quite a while ago, so i don't recall the details, but I basically went to a bunch of auto parts stores and places like Fleet Farm/TSC to see what I could find, with a fuse in hand. I finally found something that fit the blade, and then figured out a way to put it into the slot on the fuse block from behind and secure it. I don't recall how exactly i did it, but it was not hard. I think what I used for a contact did not enclose the blade on all sides, but was one sided. Careful bending with needle nose and a small vise made it fit as required. It held up well, and is still in service today (sold the tractor to a coworker a couple-few years back). Wish I recalled all the details as it was a good hack, but I pretty much just winged it and it worked fine. very clean install, and you would not know it unless you went into the back of the fuse block and looked closely.

Now switching it with ignition requires you to tap into an ignition triggered circuit to run a relay. I did that with this one too as it was for the third function for the grapple. Just find a lightly loaded ignition switched circuit and have that feed the coil on a suitably sized 12V relay, and you are in business. Feed from your new fuse circuit to the IN contact on the relay, then feed from the OUT contact to your load or switch.

 

[aczlan]

I think I know what you want, and I did it once. IIRC, The kubota fuse block feeds power to all the slots on one side, and then there is another socket/terminal on the other side of the blade for active circuits that they actually installed. It either has a contact/socket or is blank on the load side. So you need to come up with a way to make a "blade socket" for the one side, and you can add a circuit easily. It was quite a while ago, so i don't recall the details, but I basically went to a bunch of auto parts stores and places like Fleet Farm/TSC to see what I could find, with a fuse in hand. I finally found something that fit the blade, and then figured out a way to put it into the slot on the fuse block from behind and secure it. I don't recall how exactly i did it, but it was not hard. I think what I used for a contact did not enclose the blade on all sides, but was one sided. Careful bending with needle nose and a small vise made it fit as required. It held up well, and is still in service today (sold the tractor to a coworker a couple-few years back). Wish I recalled all the details as it was a good hack, but I pretty much just winged it and it worked fine. very clean install, and you would not know it unless you went into the back of the fuse block and looked closely.

I think what you would want would be one of these: 20 Pcs 6.3mm Brass Crimp Terminal Cable Female Spade Connector: Wire Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific if you have full size blade fuses, or one of these: Amazon.com: URBEST®20 Pcs Female Spade Cable Wire Terminals for 2.8mm Connectors: Home Improvement if you have the mini blade fuses.
That should slide into the empty slot on the fuse block and let you install a fuse.

Aaron Z

 

[Scrambler82]

Fallon,

Was wondering where you went on this project ?

I get into these postings late and make comments but they go nowhere.

Let us know what you did and how it worked out ?

 

[Fallon]

I got lazy & just tapped an existing wire. Unfortunately apparently I miscalculated & tapped an switched one. I haven't fixed my bucket cam yet, so I just leave the monitor off & the power SSQA doesn't pull any juice unless it's running. At some point I'll fix it & tap a switched wire.

 

[aczlan]

I got lazy & just tapped an existing wire. Unfortunately apparently I miscalculated & tapped an switched one. I haven't fixed my bucket cam yet, so I just leave the monitor off & the power SSQA doesn't pull any juice unless it's running. At some point I'll fix it & tap a switched wire.

Get one of those add a fused tap adapters. It goes into the fusebox in place of a fuse and adds an additional tap with its own fuse.

Aaron Z

 

[Scrambler82]

Are you still putting in a fuse block ?
If so run the fused main power from the battery, you can break the power wire with a relay controlled from a key switch, that way nothing is left on or run it straight to the fuse block to power a lot of things direct.

Let us know how,you make out.

 

[Fallon]

Are you still putting in a fuse block ?
If so run the fused main power from the battery, you can break the power wire with a relay controlled from a key switch, that way nothing is left on or run it straight to the fuse block to power a lot of things direct.

Let us know how,you make out.

Well as mentioned earlier I took the easy way out & just spliced into a wire behind the fuse block. It worked fine until I sold it. No I'm wiring up my new L4060 & running into basically the same quandary on how to do it right & make it look nice. Put a nice 10 fuse & 5 relay block up in the head liner & ran 6 gauge (way overkill) up to a 60@ fuse & relay combo next to the battery & that goes directly to the battery. Just need to tap into an ignition switched wire to run the relay up front.

Still looking for that connector so I can do a nice splice & extension to tap into the 5@ radio fuse.

 

[crazyal]

I would add a separate fuse block. You should be able to find a universal one with a relay. Just set it up so the relay energizes the fuse block when the key is turned on.

 

[aczlan]

I would add a separate fuse block. You should be able to find a universal one with a relay. Just set it up so the relay energizes the fuse block when the key is turned on.

As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

 

[crazyal]

As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

Ahhh. Are there any spare connectors for something like a rear work light? On the open station tractors there are three behind the seat. If not then how about the cigarette lighter (I assume the cabbed tractors have them)? I would just use the wire going to that and then run a new wire from the new fuse block back down to it (or just tap into it for a less clean look). Ideally finding a source for the connectors that Kubota uses would be ideal.