Catman8
Gold Member
I cannot afford hydraulic TNT at the moment so I made a lever out of a chain binder to adjust my top link from the operators seat.



I took a 5/16" - 3/8" ratchet binder and used the parts from it to fabricate my top link.


Cut off the plastic grip with a razor knife and you will notice that the holes for the roll pins are only drilled in one side of the cylinder, you will need to drill two more holes on the opposite side so you can drive out the roll pins to be able to unscrew the threads from the cylinder. I did not think about drilling out two holes and I used a chop saw.

I cut a 2" section out of the cylinder that did not have internal threads and machined two snap ring groves and I cut a slot for a woodruff key.



Then I TIG welded the part to the end of the top link and painted the top link.




I then drilled four holes in the sprocket and tapped 1/4-20" threads for Alan screws, and I filed a notch for the woodruff key.

I then assembled the parts.






I took a 5/16" - 3/8" ratchet binder and used the parts from it to fabricate my top link.


Cut off the plastic grip with a razor knife and you will notice that the holes for the roll pins are only drilled in one side of the cylinder, you will need to drill two more holes on the opposite side so you can drive out the roll pins to be able to unscrew the threads from the cylinder. I did not think about drilling out two holes and I used a chop saw.

I cut a 2" section out of the cylinder that did not have internal threads and machined two snap ring groves and I cut a slot for a woodruff key.



Then I TIG welded the part to the end of the top link and painted the top link.




I then drilled four holes in the sprocket and tapped 1/4-20" threads for Alan screws, and I filed a notch for the woodruff key.

I then assembled the parts.



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