LED amp draw and lighting output

[CalG]

LED lamps, even multiple lamps should never be able to draw more power and blow a fuse that was originally spec'd. for an incandescent. I imagine you would have too much light and go blind before the fuse would let go. Alternatively, I recommend running a low voltage/amperage/wattage switch to a relay direct connected to the battery. It will be fused separately and even if your lights blow, you won't harm the main electrical of the tractor.

For my requirements, it's not an issue of current carrying capacity of the fuses (there are none) or wiring. It's strictly supply and demand.

If I run the "standard" 35W headlamps, The battery will not come back in any reasonable operating time after using the electric pump to move the front Western snow plow. Taken to the extreme of pushing back banks after a series of winter snow storms, and it can bring the battery down to where the pump motor get's sluggish.
Sure, I keep a battery charger for when it is required. And I could save the "big pushes" for daylight hours.

But if I can have lights and more amps available just by making an informed LED light choice. Win! WIN!

There has been one reply that has been very informative to the original question. That helps a lot.

I am sure others have different questions needs and solutions.
It's good to get all the comments ;-)

 

[Soundguy]

i'd skip the relay suggestion if you are using a center 0 ammeter and a net charge scheme.

 

[CalG]

i'd skip the relay suggestion if you are using a center 0 ammeter and a net charge scheme.

Don't worry, I'm not adding circuits, nor am I considering fitting an alternator. More light at less amp load is the only thing under consideration. I've got two tractors from the era when work was done in daylight. One is outfitted by the Prince of Darkness, and he did a fine job of making sure dark was going to win.
If I NEED good light after dark, I've got a tractor with more than enough light and electricity. It's even got a LED light bar on the ROPS. ;-)

 

[steveja]

All LEDs run on 3-6 volts "in the raw" ...

Each electron transitions from the conduction to valence band creating a photon of wavelength 1240nm/eV [Heisenberg's constant 'h' = E*lambda]. The human eye senses from 400nm(violet) to 700nm (red) to the junction voltage for direct visible light LEDs is 1.8v to 3.1v. You will, particularly for high power LEDs see a voltage drop of several tenths of a volt as bulk semi resistance and lead loss. So "in the raw" you need ~1.8-3.4v to drive a visible LED.

Some of the 'white' LEDs consist of RBG units, while others include phosphors that transition higher energy (often blue/visible LED) photons to a spectrum of photons in the visible range. The phosphor types will operate at the higher end of the voltage range above.

... steveja quietly shuffles the physics degrees back to the bottom of the dusty shelf.

 

[3Lfarms]

^^^Yep. What Sheldon said.

 

[moship]

CalG,

Curious what you ended up doing?

If you bought LED's which ones and are you happy with the light output?