The gauge wheels should be behind the teeth as you comb the gravel. That way, THEY set the gravel collection based on an already smoothed roadway. I like the idea of a front rake, though. Easier to define the edges of the gravel. I run mine at 45 degrees on both sides of the driveway to give it a crown, then at zero degrees to top it off.
York Rake from pull with SS to push with tractor ..
- Thread starter tmajor
- Start date
OP
tmajor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2007
- Messages
- 704
- Location
- NE PA
- Tractor
- 2010 MF 1529, Woods ZTR MZ1952, National Mower sickle bar circa 1963
I see your point.
On York's site, all of the ones "pushed", seem to have the gauge wheels out, in front of the tines, while the ones "pulled", have the wheels behind the tines.
It might have something to do with "longer wheel base".
Looks to me like you can easily move the gauge wheels to behind the teeth. Then tell us which position works best. There's probably not a lot of difference on a driveway that's already smooth and level. But when it's time to fill ruts and pot holes, the rear wheels will do better to fix the problem. Looks like the front wheel position is a bit hard on the tires, too. That single bolt holding the gauge wheel standoff has limited life, too, IMHO.
Also, I hate to tell you this, but the front rakes shown on the site and in your own post are meant to be dragged by running the tractor in reverse. That leaves you with a gravel patch without tire or belt tread marks on the client's property !
OP
tmajor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2007
- Messages
- 704
- Location
- NE PA
- Tractor
- 2010 MF 1529, Woods ZTR MZ1952, National Mower sickle bar circa 1963
I'm sorry, I don't agree with that. The York SSF is meant to be "pushed". It is shown on the site, set up, as my rake currently is. I don't believe, with the wheels behind the rake, there would be enough room to pivot the blade, without it hitting the plate. They show the same picture for all of the SSF rakes .. 6' through 10', with the one being shown, a 10' rake, i believe.
OP
tmajor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2007
- Messages
- 704
- Location
- NE PA
- Tractor
- 2010 MF 1529, Woods ZTR MZ1952, National Mower sickle bar circa 1963
CORRECTION!
I was out leveling off the remnants of an old burn pile, which I didn't want to do, because it's full of bed springs, old barn hinges, sheet-rock screws, etc..
Anyhow, I got a chance to get the feel of "curl and dump" .... now I have to come-up with a whole new "way to remember".
"Curl" makes it dig in more, as it takes the weight off the gauge wheels, allowing more weight on the rake. "Dump" puts more weight on the wheels, thus raising the rake. :ashamed: Who knew?!
I was out leveling off the remnants of an old burn pile, which I didn't want to do, because it's full of bed springs, old barn hinges, sheet-rock screws, etc..
Anyhow, I got a chance to get the feel of "curl and dump" .... now I have to come-up with a whole new "way to remember".
"Curl" makes it dig in more, as it takes the weight off the gauge wheels, allowing more weight on the rake. "Dump" puts more weight on the wheels, thus raising the rake. :ashamed: Who knew?!
Last edited:
Notforhire
Veteran Member
Although it may look like there is only one bolt, I don't think that's the case. I looked at my York brand rake today and the standoff is welded to a 1/2 inch plate. the assembly has four bolts holding it on. I expect that all Yorks are built in somewhat the same fashion and the weld is just not visible in the photo. I would agree that if the attachment only used one bolt, it wouldn't last long.
"Curl" makes it dig in more, as it takes the weight off the gauge wheels, allowing more weight on the rake. "Dump" puts more weight on the wheels, thus raising the rake. Who knew?!"
I'm sure you will get the hang of it quickly. It takes me a few goofs to get mine right if I haven't raked in a while.
Remember; It's like riding a bike, it hurts just as much when you fall off twenty years later.
Arc weld
Veteran Member
When the rake is pushing the wheels need to be out front like a graders wheels otherwise the rake would want to dig in when you didn't want it to. The wheels behind it when front mounted wouldn't prevent this. The same reason a front blade on a skid steer only works decent when clearing snow on a hard surface. In dirt they suck! Look at a Front Runner rake that is designed to be pushed by a skid steer or a pick up. When pulling a landscape rake the gauge wheels go behind. Long space between front and back wheels equals a smoother surface just like a land plane with longer skids makes a smoother surface.
OP
tmajor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2007
- Messages
- 704
- Location
- NE PA
- Tractor
- 2010 MF 1529, Woods ZTR MZ1952, National Mower sickle bar circa 1963
I missed that comment. The bolts were removed to replace a tine. And in the picture, the gauge wheel was temporarily mounted to stabilize the rake, while i was modifying it. As mentioned above, there are 4 bolts holding the gauge wheel mount.
Personally, I don't think, you'll find a stone rake built stronger than a "York".
