Saving $ on electric filler pump (ideas?)

[DiskDoctr]

This is a "sort of" customization that has saved me money.

All our main equipment is now diesel, so we bought an electric filler pump for the 500gal tank. You know the type, with the pump handle like at a gas station.

Here's the deal. 110v units are about $50-$100 more than 12v for an equivalent pump, from same mfg.

Sooo... Since tank is next to building, we purchased the 12v unit and plan to use piece of conduit through wall for wiring, then split pos and neg to right and left on a wooden board, and put some sort of end on the wires for battery charger clamps to easily grip.

We plan to store our wheeled battery charger next to it, with clamps stored connected to the pos and neg terminals, and plugged into a switched 110v outlet.

Then to use the pump, we just flip the switch and go outside and fill the machine. If we want to use the charger for something else, we just unhook it and go.

Anybody have any suggestions for what to use on the end of the wires to make a good terminal? I thought if I could find two pieces of copper tubing about 1/4" or so in diameter and clamp wire to it.

Or some large grounding rod with wire clamped to it...

Ideas? Anyone do this before? See any potential problems?

Thanks.

-JC

 

[mrcaptainbob]

Radio Shack may have 110/12V transformers. Heck, a bell transformer would probably work as well, provided you get either with the right amp output. Throw a switch on that near the pump and you'd be good to go. What amp rating does the 12v pump require?

 

[tillerkiller]

I'm not sure here, but I think that a 12 volt battery charger does not produce 'true' DC current. It is great for charging a battery but will not be good for your electric motor. If you put a 12 volt battery connected in parallel with the motor (so that it absorbs the spikes and smooths out the voltage - make sure you connect it so you get 12 volts and not 24) then you will be ok. I think I would just use the tractor battery to power the pump.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree with tillerkiller. I'd have a small 12v battery at least, in parallel with the charger.. even if a high amperage unit.. Your pump will like the smoother output that way.. rather than completely unfiltered half or full wave rectification..

Use a double pole st switch to control both power to the charger, and power to the punmp. Throwing the switch on will powere the charger and the pump.. turning it off will kill the charger and siolate the pump from the battery.
I'd forget making the contacts into wood.. make them right at the battery. Lotsa batteries have both side and top post connections.. make use of both.. smaller atv/lawnmower batteries have good screwdown wire connection posts.

Soundguy

 

[OkeeDon]

<font color="blue"> Anybody have any suggestions for what to use on the end of the wires to make a good terminal? </font>

If you really want terminals, attached is a picure of the neatest terminal lugs you'll find. They're a Summit Racing product; click here and enter <font color="red"> SUM-G1430 </font> in the search box that says "Enter Summit Part #". Not cheap, though, $19.99/pair plus freight plus Summit's stupid handling fee.

I agree with Soundguy, though, you'd be better off to use a battery. Rather than keeping the battery hooked to the charger all the time, though, just charge it back up when you need to. Or, pick up an automatic trickle charger for the battery -- Walmart has one for under $20.

Of course, by the time you buy a battery, you'll have spent most of the savings over the 110v pump... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[5030]

I also have a 12 volt pump on my bulk tank.

I put a 7 pin male trailer plug on the end of the wire and a female on the side of the shop. I just plug it in and go. Inside the shop, I have a car battery sitting on the bench with allagator clips attached to the wires running to the female in wall plug. Once in a while I charge the battery. If I am not using fuel, I just detach the alligator clips. Good fuel theft prevention.

 

[jmc]

I wonder if that 110v motor is more exspensive than the 12v motor because they have to surpress any chance of sparks around gas fumes at the higher voltage. Something to think about if you start rigging 110 v switches outside to control the charger inside

I vote for a dedicated battery too. I never realized how much energy is stored in a battery that size until I got a battery powered dump trailer. You'd probably only have to charge it once or twice a season or keep an inexpensive trickle charger on it.

Or, wire a 12v plug on each of your vehicles and use the vehicle's battery to plug into the pump.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Thanks to all for the ideas and comments.

I never thought about the charger not outputting clean power. Should've known that- it's the first thing I think about with generators, using an inline UPS to produce pure sinewave for computers...

I have a 10kw portable generator with electric start that I keep a trickle charger on. It has a small tractor battery onboard.

I could probably make a connection to its battery and store the generator where I was planning to put the charger, and keep it on trickle charge. May even be good to keep the battery exercised. This is a new garage, so pretty flexible on layout (40 x 60 x16)

I can use a double switch to cutout both pos and neg to pump. I don't like to keep either line energized to prevent corrosion of tank, pump etc. Not sure if that's a big deal... ?

Any suggestions for a lighted, pushbutton dbl throw switch? Picturing something like the Mahindra PTO switch. Would look cool and visually light RED to remind you it is on. I really like RED right now, for some reason /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif (I just got a new Mahindra this week)

I agree with "5030" that this is a good theft deterrent device. That's one of the reasons I don't want alligator clips on the end of the wire outside with the pump. Also not thrilled about making connections that could spark on the tractor battery, which always seems to be 'near' the fuel fill.

Just had a friend sent to hospital a few weeks ago.... Using gasoline, "filled and spilled" on a skidder, then was jumpstarting it. One spark and he was in trouble. He's okay, but DUMP A BUCKET OF WATER on your equipment if you have a fuel spill before using jumper cables.

Your engine is waterproof, just be smart about where you dump water (NOT down air intake if hood is open, etc /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif )

This incident is why we chose to get an electric pump. Otherwise, can't handcrank and see/hear fuel level at same time. Almost always ends up with a small spill. Larger if I had my Wheaties for breakfast and not paying attention. Hopefully this will eliminate spills.

Anybody see problems with this setup? I'm not sure of the current draw. I am travelling on business and won't be home for a few days, so don't have the pump handy. I bought the "economy 12v" pump from Tractor Supply Company (TSC) for $184, so maybe somebody knows the draw?

Thanks! This is a great site with members who really go out of their way to help others. Yeah, I expect to be a regular...I'm hooked!

-JC

 

[Soundguy]

Sounds like a great idea to use the battery on your genny as a double duty system. I wouldn't worry as much about disconnecting the ground on the pump.. just the positive.. I like to keep things grounded.. prevents static buildup. Just come up with a scheme that turns the charger and thge pump off.

Radio shack as well as any of the big parts houses will have lit togle switches.

Might even use a relay to do some of this stuff.. lotsa ways.. up to you.

have fun.

Soundguy

 

[SPIKER]

I don't think I would use a SWITCH for this but instead one of the ROTARY timers that are used for bathroom fans ect. and break the + side of the DC from the battery. all you have to do then is give the rotary timer a twist and then go out side and pull the trigger, it will turn it's self off after a few min and you are done and gone. does the pump run anything the trigger is puled on the handle? depending on how you are wanting ti switch it on/off. if the pump bypasses instead of turning on/off with the handle then leaving it run a min or two is only keeping the fuel stired inside the tank and will not be a problem...

just my 2cents worth and with todays inflation I think it only good for aobut 1/100 of a cent! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif