Need advice on adding remotes

[GRUMPA]

Now before I start let me WARN you right at the beginning that I know precisely ZILTCH about hydraulics. I have a 35hp machine (Kama) that I would very much like to add remotes to. I've been touring thru here and doing massive google searches and coming up on the short side. I've been looking for kits, how-to's and the like.

I posted this same question in the chinese tractor forum without any real good results. It seems if someone did do this they are keeping it to themselves and info is very limited at best. All I would like to do is add this to my machine for 3 point implements. I have no idea about open or closed circuits, I know I have metric hardware on it, I know I need to T-off from the FEL line because I havent any extra ports on the pump.

I was told that a 2 way valve is what I would more than likely want to put on but being totally unknowledgable about them when I do a search on them there's more of them out there than you can shake a stick at. Being a machinist by trade you would think I would know more about this type of thing, but tractors, welding and such I'm not good at.

I would very much like to know the best way to go about this, and dont forget its like talking to kid here, its going to take some time for it to sink into the grey matter. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[MadReferee]

First of all you have to determine if your hydraulic system is open or closed center (it's probably open center).

Then you must find out if your tractor has provisions for a rear aux hydraulic block or connection (it probably doesn't).

Then you have to determine if your loader valve has power beyond (it might but probably does). This one is easy to determine. If there are 4 work ports that have hoses going to the loader cylinders and 3 other hoses going back to the tractor then it has power beyond.

Once you have determined the above you can tackle the "What do I need to make this work?" issues.

For example, if you have an open center system with no aux hydraulic block and your loader valve has power beyond, I would suggest a Prince SV valve with 2 or 3 spools that are 4-way double acting spring return to center with the work ports being blocked in neutral (part # SVW1BA1).

You cannot simply tee off any of the FEL pressure lines. I would plumb it by taking the loader valve's power beyond hose and connecting it to your new valve's inlet. Take the power beyond of your new valve and connect it to where the loader power beyond line was disconnected from the tractor. Then run your new valve's return to tank line to where you loader valve's return to tank line goes. These return to tank lines are the only ones can be teed together as they are return lines not pressure lines.

There are other products out there that would be worth looking into, like the CCM TNT kit.

There are ways to connect if your configuration is different than what I described above. If you supply the info then I am sure we can help.

 

[GRUMPA]

OK Ref,

I had to wait till the sun was up so I can take some pix of it. I'm pretty sure its open center but not 100%, more like 85%. As far as the rear aux hydraulic block or connection, I don't think so by the way the pump looks. As far as it having power beyond according to my loader book it is. Here's a picture of the controller, in my book they say that if there's a line "A" going to the block that its set up for power beyond. As an added measure I took a picture of the lines going into the rear of the tractor here .

 

[MadReferee]

Your valve looks like it has power beyond. It looks like line "B" is return to tank since it is marked "T" on the valve block. What are the other 2 marked on the valve block? I would guess that "A" is the power beyond and "C" is the inlet.

This being the case, the CCM TNT kit would probably be your best bang for the buck.