run 12v to sprayer

   / run 12v to sprayer #1  

gotrocks

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2001
Messages
773
Location
Phenix City Alabama
Tractor
B-2910 delivered 8/23/01
I've just had my 2910 for a couple of weeks and want to "plug" in my sprayer. Please direct me to best location for running a "pig-tail" plug to the rear of my 2910. Would also appreciate suggestions for location of a switch to control the sprayer power. Thanks a bunch.
 
   / run 12v to sprayer #2  
gotrocks, when I had the B7100, I used my brother's 50 gallon, 12 volt spray rig, and I ran my wire all the way from the battery with an inline fuse and just made a little bracket to mount a toggle switch on the right fender. When I bought the B2710, I told the dealer they had to put a cigarette lighter on it, and they ran the hot wire, with an inline fuse, off the starter and mounted the lighter in the instrument panel between the steering column and the light switch.

Bird
 
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On my spray rig, I just ran a two-wire plug connector to the rear light, and used the light switch to run the pump. It means the lights are on when the pump runs, but no mess, no fuss, no problem with burning out fuses, and just the short pigtail hangs below the rear light. Works great for me.
 
   / run 12v to sprayer #4  
I assume that the wiring harness on the 2910 is the same as on the 2710 so you should have a hot pigtail on the right side rear of the tractor under the taillight assembly already provided by the K-Men.
Look close as mine was taped up and hidden.
You can run a ground wire from any convenient spot on the tractor.
Good Luck

Dale
 
   / run 12v to sprayer
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Presto! Eureka I found it! Thanks Bird, beenthere and DaleW.
My 2910 does have the pig-tail with a ground taped up under the right tail light. It is hot with the ignition switch on.
Now all I have to do is install a swith on the fender just like Bird suggested and then make me something to carry my 25 gal sprayer. I don't want to pull it on it's wheels- turns over too easy. I had used it with my JD 185 until it got stolen a few years past.
 

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For my work light I wanted a real durable switch and wanted it protected. I got an aluminum box from Radio Shack for $3 and installed a push-pull switch from Walmart (Automotive), also about $3. The toggle switches I found looked too light duty for a tractor. I put one hole in the box cover for the switch, and one hole in the box base for the fender bolt. Also added a notch for wires. My M series has pigtales and fuse already for the work light. Key does not need to be ON.

I also included a pic of my spray nozzle holster. Made from a piece of PVC hose clamped to a short piece of angle. A notch in the PVC keeps the handle oriented and keeps the handle from spinning and scratching the fender. Ergonomic and where I need it without even looking.
 

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Another pic
 

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jjjj

[image]http://nzwwa.com/mirror/clipart/graphics/pictures/icons2/waver.gif[i/mage]
 
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Found a way to send four pics at once!
 

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Nice work jrpoux. Clean design and install.

Over time as rigs get customized (electrically) there is a tendency (at least when I do it) for things to get a bit messy. "Tap the winshield wiper wire for power that is switched with the key", "there is a heater hot wire real near where you want that so just..."

Related to that is the tendency to leave something on without noticing or a switch getting bumped but not noticing, that sort of Murphy's law thing. I find that if I force myself to think of the big picture rather than treating each project as a separate entity I get better long term satisfaction/results. Toward that end I usually make up for a shortcoming of virtually all manufacturers by installing a really heavy duty 12volt wire (and ground) to a convenient location (or two) with heavy duty terminal blocks (fused, resetable breakers being so expensive) in plastic boxes (Radio Shack, like you). I like to fuse the heavy runs near the battery so in case the wire ever got hit, pinched, or whatever the fuse would blow rather than cooking the wire or starting a fire (been there, done that) as it would if the fuse were at the other end.

In some cases I have "gilded the lily" a bit by having two busses, one hot all the time and one fed from a 100% duty cycle rated solenoid with the coil wired to the switch. This way I have a choice of hot all the time or of switched power (but not taking the power through the little key switch contacts which won't take too much abuse for long).

So far I haven't done any electrical customizing to my litle Kubota L4610HSTC but I think it needs air horns, a couple two way radios, rear facing work lights, more cigarette lighter outlets (switched and unswitched), a lighted toolbox and ... and a cup holder and a fire extinguisher mount and........ Isn't that what winter is for? Time to customize your ride.

Patrick (impatienty waiting for the dirt to dry so he can tractor on)
 
 
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