TC24DA Top and Tilt.

   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #1  

JSUnlimited

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Messages
675
Location
Ohio
Tractor
New Holland
I finally started this project with help from all of you here and a buddy who welds.

I did not get pictures of all of the cutting and welding of the cylinders and valve bracket because it's all pretty much as other have done here. I did want to show you guys the amost finished project though.

Here are the cylinders I used. They are the Prince "Wizard" line 2" bore cylinders.

The side link or "tilt" cylinder has a stroke of 4" which should be enough to do what I want. I plan on using the adjustable link on the other side. The ends for it were welded on angles just like the fixed link is to compensate for when the lift arms are spread out. the clevis in the bottom was fabbed by my buddy out of one piece and it has three holes in it like the fixed link does. The cylinder has 90 degree fittings on it to keep the hoses out away from the implement.

The top link or "top" has a 8" stroke and the weld-on ends are pretty much as everyone else has used from TSC. The fittings on this are straight.

I bought them from Baum Hydraulics and they had blank end on them so nothing had to be cut off.
 

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   / TC24DA Top and Tilt.
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#2  
Here is a picture of the valve and mount looking down from above. The valve is a Eaton-Cessna 2 spool, I don't have the power beyond plug in it yet in case anyone notices.
 

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#3  
Another of the valve looking from across the seat.

I'm sure you noticed the studs sticking up with the fender washers and acorn nuts at the top. After the plumbing is done, we're going to fabricate a cover over the top of the valve and maybe incorporate a beer holder on it. Obviously, it will be held in place with these studs.
 

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#4  
Looking from the side, we used the bolts holding the ROPS to hold the bracket. The small bolt on the lower left corner was used to hold the little wire clip for the rear lights that was held on by the ROPS bolt

Monday I'm going to haul "baby blue" down to the local hydraulic shop and get all of the hoses and fitting made. I plan on using 1/4" lines for the cylinders and use 3/8" for the supply, return and power beyond.

More pics to follow.........stay tuned!
 

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   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #5  
<font color="blue"> maybe incorporate a beer holder on it. </font>

Once the works finished a man's got to have cold wet refreshment, right? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Nice looking project so far. The placement of your control valve should be very handy for you to make your final cylinder adjustments.
 
   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #6  
Looks nice. Really good-looking fabrication job.
 
   / TC24DA Top and Tilt.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for the comments guys.

Mike, we took some time with me on the seat to figure out what would work the best for me and my long arms. We tried to make it so that it was easy to use, yet not look like it wasn't so much of an after thought add-on.

At this point, I'm not going to use any POCV (pilot-operated check valves.) I read the many posts here and spoke to several dealers and hydraulic fabricators and they all said based on the size of the tractor and implements, bleed down should'nt be an issue....I hope not /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. So far, including the aproximate cost of hoses and fittings, I should be near my target budget of $500.00 /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #8  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( and they all said based on the size of the tractor and implements, bleed down should'nt be an issue....I hope not )</font>

Yes, but it probably will be an issue. Good Luck.
 
   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #9  
Nice looking project. I especially like how you located the control levers, looks to be very ergonomic.

...Derek
 
   / TC24DA Top and Tilt. #10  
<font color="blue"> Yes, but it probably will be an issue. Good Luck. </font>
I agree. The reason that they say it won't be a problem is because they don't have the cylinders with the valves to sell.
 
 
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