<font color="blue"> I got it somewhere that you can pull your FEL out of "kilter" by pulling/pushing on just one side. Mine is a little 302 so was parinoid. Is that correct you tractor vets? </font>
Yes, depends on the loader. It is much better to pull from frame mounted hooks if pulling from the front, or pull from the draw bar if pulling from the rear.
FEL hooks are for lifting objects so need to be rated for the capacity of the lifting chain. You will probably never need 10,000# hooks unless you are picking up the tractor. I also use my FEL hooks when trailering as they are convienent. When trailering the only time they will be essential is in a wreck.
My preference for FEL hooks is to use 3/8 grab hooks for chain, attached to a reinforcement that runs the full width of the bucket. 3/8 hooks will work for 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 chain. I cut off the pin used for attaching the chain, and I weld the hook with the slot slanted such that gravity keeps the chain in the hook.
If Huggie saw how quick it is to drop a chain in a grab hook he might change to grab hooks when he changes the reinforcement. The rounded hook might be OK for rope, but I can't imagine why one would use rope when chain is faster, stronger, and no knots to untie.
This is a shackel with a grab hook attached, for pulling with the drawbar. Mote it is not a 3pt hitch drawbar. Always pull with the drawbar so if your load is too great the tractor will break traction before it flips.
If you pull from the 3pt with the arms raised and load is too great the tractor can doo a wheelie and flip over.
The value of this site is to learn from others. It is a great forum and I have learned so much over the past six years or so. Thanks all.