rja
Bronze Member
How do you remove a freeze plug?
Rich
Rich
Freeze plug Removal?
- Thread starter rja
- Start date
SimS
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2000
- Messages
- 491
- Location
- Rutledge, GA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3710DT, Case 1845C, Takeuchi TB015
mikim
Veteran Member
The one and only time I ever did it I think I used a hammer and screwdriver - punched through the plug then pryed it out- that was a long time ago.... I saw one once that removed itself .. on a column of ice.. worked as advertised.
mike
mike
JRP
Platinum Member
I have replaced hundreds with a hammer and punch or screwdriver. Punch out the rusty area and pry it out. Never needed a puller. Sometimes a rolling head pry bar helps. Most are so rusty that the come out easy. I have a freeze plug installer that is worth it's weight in silver, when used on cars.
Use permatex #2 on the plug before you install it.
Freeze plugs are not really there for freeze protection. They fill in a hole left by the sand core that makes the cooling water passage when the the block casting is poured at a foundry. They machine the hole and finstall the plug. The pressure protection provided by the plug is an added bonus. Sometimes, however, the block cracks before the plug pops out.
Use permatex #2 on the plug before you install it.
Freeze plugs are not really there for freeze protection. They fill in a hole left by the sand core that makes the cooling water passage when the the block casting is poured at a foundry. They machine the hole and finstall the plug. The pressure protection provided by the plug is an added bonus. Sometimes, however, the block cracks before the plug pops out.
Sounds easier than it looks. Do you know how much space is behind the freeze plug before the jacket of the head? The kub. tech told me not to drill because it's too easy to damage the inner jacket. The insert for the block heater has a 1/2 or better lip and I am concerned that if it is fully bottomed out there might be a restriction in coolant flow.
Rich.
Rich.
JRP
Platinum Member
Not sure about the depth. I have had them drop down inside the jacket, however. They always have been able to be retrieved. Pull it up and grab it with a big pair of vice-grips, and pry it out.
Get a spare freeze plug before you start, just in case the heater is too long.
Also, if you can take your tractor by a radiator shop after the plug is installed they can pressure test the system. They will fill it with water and pump air in to pressurre it up to about 16 PSI. Any leak becomes apparent.
Jim
Get a spare freeze plug before you start, just in case the heater is too long.
Also, if you can take your tractor by a radiator shop after the plug is installed they can pressure test the system. They will fill it with water and pump air in to pressurre it up to about 16 PSI. Any leak becomes apparent.
Jim
Jeff396
Veteran Member
Now that's a kool item I have never seen before! I was just about to suggest a dent puller with a screw fixed on the end but that has to be a cheaper way to go. I've always used the old hammer and punch route. Hit it on one side and it will hopefully start to twist when it goes in far enough, grab it with a pair of vise grips and yank. Only did this on cars...don't know how big the plugs are on the tractors.
Jeff
Jeff