Okay, I have changed the bolts. Documenting the prosses is new to me so here goes.
(Pic 1) bolts removed and measured. The holes are .700" The bolts were .610 because there was no shoulder. Only one bolt looked like it was crushed and the holes were not elongated. (Pic 2 )Next was to setup the mag drill, that was a pain because once you turn on the base it dosen't move. So I made a template to clamp to the steel and this gave me the position to be centered on the exsiting hole. Drilling was a piece of cake. (Pic 3) Drill hole, insert and tighted the new shouldered .750 bolts and repete. Project time about 1 Hr (Pic 4) I cut off the xtra bolt past the nut. My fel hoses are in this space on the right side. (Pic 5) the second reason that I don't like the front brace when turning the tires rub. This is no longer a problem because the preveous owner just chewed the tire instead of adjusting the turn stops . The setup is all tight and seems to be okay. I will continue to post the process of the sub frame to the back of the tractor.
Phil
(Pic 1) bolts removed and measured. The holes are .700" The bolts were .610 because there was no shoulder. Only one bolt looked like it was crushed and the holes were not elongated. (Pic 2 )Next was to setup the mag drill, that was a pain because once you turn on the base it dosen't move. So I made a template to clamp to the steel and this gave me the position to be centered on the exsiting hole. Drilling was a piece of cake. (Pic 3) Drill hole, insert and tighted the new shouldered .750 bolts and repete. Project time about 1 Hr (Pic 4) I cut off the xtra bolt past the nut. My fel hoses are in this space on the right side. (Pic 5) the second reason that I don't like the front brace when turning the tires rub. This is no longer a problem because the preveous owner just chewed the tire instead of adjusting the turn stops . The setup is all tight and seems to be okay. I will continue to post the process of the sub frame to the back of the tractor.
Phil