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		<title>TractorByNet.com</title>
		<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums</link>
		<description>The Leading Compact Tractor Community. John Deere, Kubota, New Holland, and more!</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:06:49 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Suggestions for testing valve seat in power steering valve assy?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/157844-suggestions-testing-valve-seat-power.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:38:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a JD 2240 tractor for which I'm rebuilding the power steering.  I've had it posted in the repair section. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a JD 2240 tractor for which I'm rebuilding the power steering.  I've had it posted in the repair section.  <a href="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/157149-2240-steering-rebuild.html" target="_blank">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/p...g-rebuild.html</a>  Someone over there suggested that I pose the question in the hydraulics section for ideas on how to test the valve seats in the upper and lower valve assemblies for leakage while I have it apart.  I have pix of everything including pertinate pages from the tech manual in the other post.<br />
<br />
Anyone have any suggestions?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/">Hydraulics</category>
			<dc:creator>dcyrilc</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[It's Here]]></title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/cub-cadet/157843-its-here.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:14:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>They delivered the SC2450 today, played with it for a little while here are some pictures:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>They delivered the SC2450 today, played with it for a little while here are some pictures:</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/cub-cadet/">Cub Cadet</category>
			<dc:creator>msb1766</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Skidsteer concrete breaker?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/157842-skidsteer-concrete-breaker.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:28:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I know this is a tractor forum but thought you guys could help.  :) 
 
Tomorrow I'm renting a concrete breaker for my 763 Bobcat. 
 
The concrete I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I know this is a tractor forum but thought you guys could help.  :)<br />
<br />
Tomorrow I'm renting a concrete breaker for my 763 Bobcat.<br />
<br />
The concrete I have to break up is a solid 3 foot wide by 3 foot wide block that extends 2 feet above grade and goes down into the ground 5 feet.   I only need to break up the block to a depth of 6 inches below grade.  Whats left after that can stay in the ground.<br />
<br />
I've never used a breaker.  What would be the best approach?  Should I try and enter the block horizontally low to the ground and break the top off and then work my way down or should I start at the top (vertically) on top of the block and break my way down?  I don't know what is faster or if trying to go horizontally is not even practical.<br />
<br />
If you start working in a straight line, top down, can you get a crack going usually?  I'm not sure what to expect with something this thick.<br />
<br />
Also, there is some rebar in it.  When I encounter rebar, am I going to need to use a <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym>-off tool to <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> it or can I set the breaker bit on it and break it that way?  <br />
<br />
Right now I have my steel tracks on the machine.  I don't need them on the machine any more.  Before I take them off, would there be any benefit to having the tracks on for tomorrow or should I just go ahead and remove them today?<br />
<br />
Any suggestions would be most appreciated!  Thank you!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/">Attachments</category>
			<dc:creator>MNBobcat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/157842-skidsteer-concrete-breaker.html</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[4720 won't turn over]]></title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/157841-4720-wont-turn-over.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:23:00 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My 4720, which was working great last time I used it about a month ago, won't turn over. When I turn the ignition there's a buzzer like sound (not...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 4720, which was working great last time I used it about a month ago, won't turn over. When I turn the ignition there's a buzzer like sound (not just a click) but engine won't turn over. Could be the battery but all electrical equipment works so obviously it's not dead, however if I push the key to heat up air intake panel goes dim and dies within seconds. Never had that problem before. It's not cold outside but very wet, dunno if that's a factor.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/">John Deere Owning/Operating</category>
			<dc:creator>Karl2</dc:creator>
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			<title>A little update on the prototype</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/157840-little-update-prototype.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:56:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have just over 40 hours on it. 
 
Image: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NvAzqdOvN34/SwavXRDPylI/AAAAAAAABgU/dM9uUpp4nWk/s576/IMG_0246.JPG  
 
I've re-graded...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have just over 40 hours on it.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NvAzqdOvN34/SwavXRDPylI/AAAAAAAABgU/dM9uUpp4nWk/s576/IMG_0246.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
I've re-graded my driveway twice, last time I <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> a swale in the high side with the neighbors box blade.   This driveway has been in for over 30 years, but for the first time, I think I have so it won't wash out in the rain.  <br />
<br />
Used it to clear a goat pen, and install the fence.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NvAzqdOvN34/SjWstCQ1DAI/AAAAAAAAA00/jNA9kOMQkis/s576/DSC_0296.JPG" border="0" alt="" />  <br />
<br />
Used the DK to install a culvert and other misc grading and clearing around my little place.   I've done the regular bucket forks and lights, and built a set of 'ghetto' pallet forks - pallets are now my favorite method of storage.<br />
<br />
<br />
And yesterday I used it do dig a small addition foundation.  20' by 23' about 3' deep.  Took about 7 hours.<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_NvAzqdOvN34/SwavNP5pgMI/AAAAAAAABgI/zWLPLhj8eLU/s512/IMG_0250.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_NvAzqdOvN34/Swau38Pp1PI/AAAAAAAABfw/6QYjLThmKOs/s512/IMG_0255.JPG" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
The shuttle is breaking in nicely.   And I'm *FINALLY* getting efficient at driving without the clutch.   It's ashame Kioti couldn't make this combo, it works very, VERY well - even for loader work.   The only real problem is when I try to grab the shuttle lever in the truck.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/">Kioti Owning/Operating</category>
			<dc:creator>zukota</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>package pricing</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/157839-package-pricing.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:46:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>ok guys, how about take a look at this for me. talked to a dealer today, and these are the numbers he gave me: 
L2800 w/ loader 
howse shredder...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>ok guys, how about take a look at this for me. talked to a dealer today, and these are the numbers he gave me:<br />
L2800 w/ loader<br />
howse shredder<br />
armstrong box blade<br />
post hole digger w/ 9&quot; auger<br />
tiller<br />
finish mower(i think these last 3 were all Kuhn)<br />
20,634</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/">Kubota Buying/Pricing</category>
			<dc:creator>quackaddict</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Refurbishing the Trailer</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/157838-refurbishing-trailer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:40:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My good old trailer had served me well but was getting aged. Rust was prevalent, the floor boars were rotting out at the ends, a axle was bent and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My good old trailer had served me well but was getting aged. Rust was prevalent, the floor boars were rotting out at the ends, a axle was bent and the ugly box was deteriorating.:(<br />
 <br />
So, on to getting it back in shape. First the ugly overweight box was pulled off. Then the floorboards followed. These were a pain as the self tapping screws would not come out. Had to break them off with the floor boards or pry bar. <br />
 <br />
Now we have the bare frame and the real work begins. Probably 70 or so hours with a needle scaler and air hammer removing rust. It may have gone faster with a bigger air compressor. Angle grinder and wire brush for a few more hours. Wore out one Makita angle grinder.:( Caught the wiring and wrapped it up with the grinder so much of it had to be rewired. [connections all soldered and heat shrink wrapped] Still picking wire out of myself and clothing.:(<br />
 <br />
Took it to a shop and had new fenders, a new hitch and ramp holders welded on.:D<br />
 <br />
Then the finishing part. A coat of Dairy product line cleaner, wire brush it off and do some more scaling. Another coat and wire brush followed with a coat that stayed on. Two coats of Rustoleum Paint, three in some places and then sprayed the under parts with an acrylic driveway sealer. the sealer went on easy, looked good for several days and the flacked off easy. So, back to the messy roofing tar and Varsol mix and two coats sprayed on. Four coats on the fender bottoms. <br />
 <br />
All this rust removal and painting took place in +35C weather out in the direct sun. In an eight hour day I'd lose about five to eight pounds.<br />
 <br />
Next <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> the pressure treated 2x8 spruce floor boards to fit, then slathered more roofing tar on the cross channels, ends and the ends of the boards, drilled holes and bolted down the floor. Added double row of boards where the tires run. <br />
 <br />
All done and passed inspection. Now to build a tool box and side add side boards.:D:D<br />
 <br />
<font color="blue">Having problems transfering pictures:confused:</font></div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/"><![CDATA[Trailers & Transportation]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Egon</dc:creator>
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			<title>How to replace part of carpet on steps?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/157837-how-replace-part-carpet-steps.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:39:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I live in the boonies.  The wife chose WHITE carpet to go up the stairs from the entry foyer (enter downstairs & must use steps to go into house,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I live in the boonies.  The wife chose WHITE carpet to go up the stairs from the entry foyer (enter downstairs &amp; must use steps to go into house, after walking through outside elements)<br />
 <br />
We then got some dogs....<br />
 <br />
Long story short, the bottom step was once used by one of the dogs as a chew toy and now she wants to fix the carpet.<br />
 <br />
We have a remenant in the attic which should cover 3-5 steps which would replace the worst ones.<br />
 <br />
I've seen carpet pulled/tightened before....  however, I do not have one of those knee kickers or anything else you might use when installing in a stairwell.<br />
 <br />
Any tips on how to <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> 3-5 steps worth of carpet off, refit new carpet over those with household tools?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/">Rural Living</category>
			<dc:creator>Richard</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/157837-how-replace-part-carpet-steps.html</guid>
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			<title>need help finding childs toy</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/related-topics/157835-need-help-finding-childs-toy.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:33:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Here's the issue... lady I work with backed over a small 2 wheeled john deer wagon that her 7yr old tows behind his big wheel tricycle... it's a big...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Here's the issue... lady I work with backed over a small 2 wheeled john deer wagon that her 7yr old tows behind his big wheel tricycle... it's a big issue as it was his favorite toy...<br />
<br />
She knows i do body work for my tractors and brought it to me to fix... quite honestly.. the thing is a gonner... or would at least take lots of time to beat it out, round the corners, remove paint, repaint.. find appropriate decals, replac e the axle, and 2 small 'lawnmower' wheels..<br />
<br />
I'm looking around the toy stores and what not simply trying to find something equivalent, figure it would make a good xmas present anyway.<br />
<br />
I'm striking out at usual places I might find this.. like cracker barrel, TSC, lowes and HD.. places that get seasonal toys.. etc.<br />
<br />
I havn't hit walmart, kmart or toys r us yet.. but will get them next week.<br />
<br />
If anyone knows of a retailer selling em, point me in the correct direction.<br />
<br />
soundguy</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/related-topics/">Related Topics</category>
			<dc:creator>Soundguy</dc:creator>
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			<title>Which is better for mowing on hills, ZTR or SCUT?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/157834-better-mowing-hills-ztr-scut.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:52:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have pretty hilly property to mow - up to 15 degree slopes (I think that's 33% grade?).  I'm currently using a b3030 with weighted tires, which...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have pretty hilly property to mow - up to 15 degree slopes (I think that's 33% grade?).  I'm currently using a b3030 with weighted tires, which works up and down, though no way would I go sidehill.<br />
<br />
I'm thinking of moving the b3030 to another property at some point, and wondering what to replace it with.  All I'd need is a pure mowing machine, as I still would have the M59 here.<br />
<br />
So the question is whether a scut like a bx or a ztr would be better for mowing the slopes?  Either would be maneuverable and fast enough I'd assume.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/">Owning/Operating</category>
			<dc:creator>Charlesaf3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/157834-better-mowing-hills-ztr-scut.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Cutting teeth for Magnum/Bradco mulching head</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/construction-equipment/157833-cutting-teeth-magnum-bradco-mulching.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:11:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello All, 
 
  I am wondering if any one knows where I could purchase cutting teeth (knife) rather than hammer teeth for our mulching head. We...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello All,<br />
<br />
  I am wondering if any one knows where I could purchase cutting teeth (knife) rather than hammer teeth for our mulching head. We bought some from Eagle claw, The tooth works well but is a pain to sharpen due to its w shape. We are locking for something that has a straight blade and will <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> down on sharpening time. Our head has a lot of teeth compared to some heads and can take some time out of your day to sharpen. Down here in east texas where everything is green and wet the cutting teeth work better than the hammer as opposed to south texas where it is the opposite. Thank ya'll for all of your help and information.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/construction-equipment/">Construction Equipment</category>
			<dc:creator>J. Simpson</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/construction-equipment/157833-cutting-teeth-magnum-bradco-mulching.html</guid>
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			<title>Possible back pressure problem?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/157831-possible-back-pressure-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:57:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an old JLG boom lift, 40F, that had one bank of propo controls, one bank of regular directional solenoids. The Racine proportional controls...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an old JLG boom lift, 40F, that had one bank of propo controls, one bank of regular directional solenoids. The Racine proportional controls had many issues when I bought it, couldn't get anyone to fix it, so I replaced the 4 valve bank with a generic set of Hyvair 12v D5 4 way valves. They are not proportional, so I put an adjustable dual direction restrictor valve on one side of the boom swing motor, to prevent big movements. The valve going to the drive motors has port A and B normally tied together,type F, in case the motor tried to freewheel to a stop (hydraulicly released brakes normally stop it instantly).<br />
<br />
The hydraulic filter is now a generic return line filter sized for 25gpm, I think, returning to the tank. Originally, it had a high pressure filter going to the propo valves, but no element in it! I put a new relief valve on the new bank of valves turned up slightly from 1500 psi. Anyway, this set up was working fine, and I noticed over a few hours of use that I would have to blip a function from the OTHER bank in order to get the main boom holding valves to allow the boom to go up or down. When this happens, you can hear the valve for the boom shift, the relief goes into bypass, and nothing further will happen until I momentarily blip something like the platform level or the telescope function.......then the boom moves with absolutely no problem, up or down, no strain on the motor, even at idling speed. I thought it must be the holding valves, which are hard to get to, and require lifting up the boom to access, with associated peril.......then the boom swing function started doing the same thing.<br />
<br />
I haven't got a gauge mounted, but used one to test it, and all was well, initially. The rat's nest of hoses that I've put everywhere precludes easy access to the return filter, but changing that is on my list of things to try. After reading a lot of info here on the forum, I'm wondering if my choice of valve manifold or valves may be causing this problem. I used a parallel bored aluminum D5 block to hold the 4 valves.  The 2 functions that are getting the cylinder holding valves stuck are Hyvair type B 4way valves. I'm sure the valves are working right and are happy with the current. I am finding it hard to believe that all the holding valves are bad, then suddenly work when I momentarily hit the controls on the other bank of controls. The kicker is that the other bank of controls is plumbed to a separate section of the 3 section pump, and has it's own dump valve. It returns through a Y to the tank.<br />
<br />
OK, I don't know the plumbing of the old Racine valves, nobody else around here could help me with that, but I do know that it seems to be a closed center design, with the flow from the pump/bank in question going straight to a dump valve, normally dumping back to tank. All the dump valves have more than one thing Y'd to them on the way to the tank, such as case drains.<br />
<br />
Some specific questions: Would it matter if my valves were normally connected pressure to tank, since the dump valve only pressurizes the block when energized along with a valve command?<br />
If I energized the dump valve slightly before, or slightly behind the valve command, would it solve this problem of the holding valves not letting up easily? (at the moment, they are on double pole switches and theoritically actuate at the same time).<br />
I am trying to get ideas for troubleshooting when I get home from this long business trip, and hope that someone with experience at holding valve anomolies could help. Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/">Hydraulics</category>
			<dc:creator>FLHayman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/157831-possible-back-pressure-problem.html</guid>
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			<title>Snowblower - Move from 3PH to FEL</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/157830-snowblower-move-3-point-hitch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:43:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi 
I have read a few threads that relate to this situation but I now need more specific details on the hydraulic part. 
 
I have a 75" Meteor...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi<br />
I have read a few threads that relate to this situation but I now need more specific details on the hydraulic part.<br />
<br />
I have a 75&quot; Meteor Snowblower that I have been using on my 3 PH.  I believe it should be possible to run this blower attached to the <acronym title="Front-End Loader">FEL</acronym>.  Understand I need a hydraulic motor that turns at 540 <acronym title="Revolutions Per Minute">RPM</acronym> to run the blower and I believe I would supply hydraulic power one of two ways:<br />
1 - from the tractor which has a 13.5 <acronym title="Gallons Per Minute">GPM</acronym> pump (not sure if this is enough power)<br />
2 - from a separate <acronym title="power take-off">PTO</acronym> driven Hydraulic Pump using a 20 - 25 gal hydraulic reservoir (this could be on a <acronym title="3-Point Hitch">3PH</acronym> and provide balance for the front blower)<br />
<br />
I am confident my friend the welder can fabricate the quick hitch but I need some advice on Hydraulic component sizing and sourcing.<br />
<br />
Anyone done this and able to provide lessons learned.<br />
<br />
Appreciate any comments.<br />
<br />
Bob</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/">Customization</category>
			<dc:creator>dourobob</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/157830-snowblower-move-3-point-hitch.html</guid>
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			<title>Quick hitch or Pats??????</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/157829-quick-hitch-pats.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:18:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Which is prefered the quick hitch or some of the slip on things like the pats or ones seen on ebay. 
 
Thinking of getting one or the other an have...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Which is prefered the quick hitch or some of the slip on things like the pats or ones seen on ebay.<br />
<br />
Thinking of getting one or the other an have little idea on how they work<br />
<br />
Jeff</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/">Attachments</category>
			<dc:creator>wr400</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/157829-quick-hitch-pats.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>One hand operation of tractor ?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/157828-one-hand-operation-tractor.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:17:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I may have surgery this winter on my right arm and be in a sling during the winter plowing season. And my wife refuses to learn the tractor. 
 
Has...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I may have surgery this winter on my right arm and be in a sling during the winter plowing season. And my wife refuses to learn the tractor.<br />
<br />
Has anyone rigged up any sort of way to operate the <acronym title="Front-End Loader">FEL</acronym> joystick with left hand , or other tips?<br />
(safety police please ignore) <br />
I hate to postpone the operation till winter is over and even a few weeks in my remote snowy Canadian location, can mean we risk being  snowed in and can't get to work. <br />
<br />
its times like these you wish you had a son besides the two daughters ! <br />
<br />
jake</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/">Owning/Operating</category>
			<dc:creator>wawajake</dc:creator>
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