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		<title>TractorByNet.com - Projects</title>
		<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums</link>
		<description>For the discussion of all the things you do with your tractor! Post projects, photos, info, and more here!</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:23:57 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>TractorByNet.com - Projects</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums</link>
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			<title>Our Outhouse</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157761-our-outhouse.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:12:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>The wife and I decided this year that we needed an outdoor bathroom up at our cabin property. We entertain quite a lot, and our RVs take on quite a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>The wife and I decided this year that we needed an outdoor bathroom up at our cabin property. We entertain quite a lot, and our RVs take on quite a bit of traffic that I would prefer didn't happen. I bought a refurbished 8X10 shed from a local manufacturer. Actually the sheds were the display units at Lowe's, and the builder decided to pull them off the lots and fix them back up and sell them. <br />
<br />
My plan was to build a full service restroom, complete with toilet, garden tub/shower, and sink. I plan on using a propane on demand water heater, and a propane ventless heater to keep things comfortable. I framed off the 2 feet of shed by the original door, and built a divider wall for a small utility area. <br />
<br />
 I installed a new entry door for the bathroom area, as well as a window for ventilation. A few pics...<br />
<br />
The lizards were a father's day gift from my boy. He bought them for me on a recent trip to Baja Mexico with his mother. What a boy!!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>coreshot</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157761-our-outhouse.html</guid>
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			<title>Removing the stink from a barn?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157753-removing-stink-barn.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 10:26:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've got a concrete "shop" building with a wood "barn" in the back. The barn appears to be made from piles of scrap wood and has lots of bare...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've got a concrete &quot;shop&quot; building with a wood &quot;barn&quot; in the back. The barn appears to be made from piles of scrap wood and has lots of bare openings. The biggest problem is the humidity is staying around 88%! <br />
<br />
My problem: It stinks in there! I call it a barn, but there's never been any animals in there, besides the meth addict that got dragged out by the police before I got there. It smells like there has though, like a combination of pee and mold.<br />
<br />
The floor is gravel and dirt, right now I'm raking up all the gravel to put down a vapor barier and wash the meth out of it. *sigh* I'll add a few more inches of new gravel on top.<br />
<br />
Do you think this should help significantly with the humidity and smell? It's not like the roof leaks, so the humidity is either coming from the floor or in with the air. Should I put a vapor barrier on the walls too? (currently just 2x4s and plywood) I'm going to try and close the place up as much as possible, but that will probably make the smell worse!<br />
<br />
Aside from that, should I try and spray the whole place down with bleach? Any other tips for dealing with &quot;old barn smell&quot;?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>zmoz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157753-removing-stink-barn.html</guid>
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			<title>Satoh 650g before, during and hopefully one day AFTER!</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157735-satoh-650g-before-during-hopefully.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:21:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi guys/Girls, I am a newbie as far as posting, although been getting info here for months.......Here's a before and during of my little baby Satoh...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys/Girls, I am a newbie as far as posting, although been getting info here for months.......Here's a before and during of my little baby Satoh 650g<br />
here's the 'during as we speak' link at <a href="http://www.drumofarm.com/drumofarm&#37;20photos/Satoh-tractor.jpg" target="_blank">http://www.drumofarm.com/drumofarm&amp;#...oh-tractor.jpg</a><br />
<br />
And I'll try to attach images etc.......<br />
<br />
I need some help so I hope there are some giving souls out there as I know there are.....:)<br />
<br />
Boo<br />
<acronym title="Power Steering">ps</acronym>. i uploaded two before pics with yellow front end loader and one as in curent state.....to be cont.........</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Boo McAfee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157735-satoh-650g-before-during-hopefully.html</guid>
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			<title>How do you get rid of Honey Locust Trees?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157730-how-do-you-get-rid.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:24:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Does anyone have any experience and advice on how and when is the best way to get rid of Honey Locust trees?  2 flats on my tractor this week was the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone have any experience and advice on how and when is the best way to get rid of Honey Locust trees?  2 flats on my tractor this week was the last staw.  Those thorns are killer!<br />
<br />
Any help will be most appreciated.......</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>bpsooner</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157730-how-do-you-get-rid.html</guid>
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			<title>stretching woven wire over uneven ground</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157698-stretching-woven-wire-over-uneven.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:03:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Okay, first time poster and first time working with woven wire fencing.  I've fenced in my pastures with high tensile 4 strands and it works great. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Okay, first time poster and first time working with woven wire fencing.  I've fenced in my pastures with high tensile 4 strands and it works great.  However, I have a puppy who insists on going to bark at the neighbors and their visitors.  Neighbor blew a fuse last time and said he would shoot the dog if he came on the property again.  Sooooo.....I'm installing woven wire fence about 9 feet beyond the existing high tensile in hopes of keeping him for getting in really big trouble.  I have about 1000' to run and have set the corner posts.  The terrain in the back of the field is uneven and goes down and then up a hill in the first 200 feet.  How do I get this pulled tight?  I'm thinking I may end up doing this myself and don't have a tractor although I do have a pickup....only 2 WD though.  I need to get this done ASAP.  I'm using 47 inch woven wire fencing.  They had the high tensile woven wire but I got the heavier stuff.  Fortunately they loaded it so I could roll it out of the bed of the truck.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>sassione</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157698-stretching-woven-wire-over-uneven.html</guid>
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			<title>leveling about 1 acre of Land (Suggestions)</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157690-leveling-about-1-acre-land.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:04:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi Guys, I have about 1 acre of my property that has a mild slope to it and I would like to level for a flat playing area for my kids. They can play...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Guys, I have about 1 acre of my property that has a mild slope to it and I would like to level for a flat playing area for my kids. They can play there now the slope is pretty minimal but I want to flatten it. It is old cow pasture so there is a root system growing that I just keep mowed down seems to be mostly weeds and some grasses. I have a landscape rake and a box blade to work with. I would like to do myself instead of hiring a dozer job out as I want to get more seat time in :D I would also like to do w/o spending a bunch of money on a rototiller. Do you think it would be possible to do myself w/ the 2 attachements I have or what would you recomend? <br />
<br />
I tried taking a couple passes through the other day from high to low point w/ the rake down but it didnt seem to bite in enough to move enough earth. Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Charlton John</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157690-leveling-about-1-acre-land.html</guid>
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			<title>Capabilities of M7040?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157659-capabilities-m7040.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:09:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I own an L4400 and my dad is now looking at an M7040 Kubota for moving round bales of hay and general work on his cattle farm. He owns a JD 4020 (67...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I own an L4400 and my dad is now looking at an M7040 Kubota for moving round bales of hay and general work on his cattle farm. He owns a JD 4020 (67 model) but is looking for a cab now. Will the 7040 handle round bales efficiently and safely @ 68 <acronym title="Horsepower">hp</acronym>? The dealer says it will w/ no problems but I'd like confirmation from someone who owns one or has at least witnessed the tractor performing this feat. It has considerably less <acronym title="Horsepower">hp</acronym> than the 4020.<br />
            Thanx!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>manitouofthehatchie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157659-capabilities-m7040.html</guid>
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			<title>Video About the Lighthouse Food Farm</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157618-video-about-lighthouse-food-farm.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:16:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>. 
  
Hello My TBN Friends! 
  
I have a treat for you. I have created a video that shows what we do with the cleared land from a project we started...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font color="white">.</font><br />
 <br />
Hello My <acronym title="TractorByNet">TBN</acronym> Friends!<br />
 <br />
I have a treat for you. I have created a video that shows what we do with the cleared land from a project we started here at <acronym title="TractorByNet">TBN</acronym>. I hope you enjoy the video and will learn why your help was so appreciated.<br />
 <br />
Thank You for your support. May God Richly Bless You and Yours.<br />
 <br />
<b>To View the video. It's on YouTube so you can share it with others: </b><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGgSiZzMs-s" target="_blank"><font color="#22229c"><b>YouTube - Lighthouse Food Farm - www.JimBonham.com</b></font></a><br />
 <br />
I am Jim Bonham - President and Executive Director of the Lighthouse Food Farm.<br />
 <br />
We grow fresh fruits and vegetables to donate to help feed hungry Americans. All fruits and vegetables are organically grown. We raise a spring crop of the normal spring vegetables and during the winter we grow greens like Turnip Greens, Collards, Curly Mustard and Kale. We donate the fresh fruits and vegetables to soup kitchens, food banks, food shelves and to people that have fallen through the cracks of our system.<br />
 <br />
Visit our web site at <a href="http://www.jimbonham.com/" target="_blank"><font color="#22229c">Lighthouse Food Farm - Feeding Hungry Americans 501(c)3</font></a> to learn how you can help.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
 <br />
<font color="white">.</font></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Jim57</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157618-video-about-lighthouse-food-farm.html</guid>
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			<title>Anyone have experience installing closed ...</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157592-anyone-have-experience-installing-closed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:31:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>cell foam insulation.  It appears to give you the R value per inch (around 7) of any insulation. 
 
Can it be applied directly to the metal siding of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>cell foam insulation.  It appears to give you the R value per inch (around 7) of any insulation.<br />
<br />
Can it be applied directly to the metal siding of a pole building (which appears to be the case)?<br />
<br />
Can it be applied to a thickness of 5&quot;?  It appears that you might have to do it in multiple layers.  <br />
<br />
The pole building I recently completed is going to have a 15' by 24' workshop area which is pretty small, but adequate.  I was going to use propane heat, but given how small the area is, a contractor friend of mine suggested baseboard electric heat which would be simpler to install and involve no cutting or propane storage, etc.  I figured if I insulated the heck out it, (R - 35 in the walls and 3 feet or so of blown in insulation in the ceiling) it might not be that costly to heat during the portion of the day that I would use it.  I couldn't imagine using it more than 20 hours a week during our 6 months of heating.  <br />
<br />
I do live in an extremely cold part of the country with 40 plus sub zero days being the norm.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>smfcpacfp</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157592-anyone-have-experience-installing-closed.html</guid>
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			<title>Heat Pump</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157570-heat-pump.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:09:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi guys, 
 
     Sorry if this topic is somewhat irrelevant to tractors/farmwork, but I do not wish to sign up for any more forums to ask one...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys,<br />
<br />
     Sorry if this topic is somewhat irrelevant to tractors/farmwork, but I do not wish to sign up for any more forums to ask one question.  With that said here we go...I just finished my last project (pole building) and am now on to the next one at hand.  I need to replace my oil furnace.  It will not last many more seasons so I am looking to replace it now while I can still qualify for the energy tax credits.  I also wish to dismantle my chimney which was built in such a way that it wicks moisture up against the house causing rot.  So it seems to me that a air source heat pump is the logical choice.  My big question is the long term costs.  Here in central PA electric rate caps are set to expire which will likely increase the cost to about 12 cents a Kwhr.  I am wondering what most heat pump owners pay monthly on their electric bill that is directly related to running the heater.  I live in a 900 sf house that is adequately insulated.  Appreciate any info.<br />
<br />
Rod M.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Rodmo1</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157570-heat-pump.html</guid>
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			<title>Cheap, quick, Firewood Storage and Transport</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157504-cheap-quick-firewood-storage-transport.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 03:07:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So based on some stuff I've seen on here I rigged up a firewood storage and transport system.  I'm really pleased with it, and its pretty much free....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So based on some stuff I've seen on here I rigged up a firewood storage and transport system.  I'm really pleased with it, and its pretty much free.<br />
<br />
Its based on pallets, which they give away for free around here, and are ecstatic to see them go.  Basically, I build 5 pallets into a cube with my framing gun, leaving the &quot;door&quot; to go on with timberloks for ease of removal.  I then take poly that I have laying around and staple it to the top, back, and sides.  In around 5 minutes I have an easily portable wood shed - some even think the clear poly will have a greenhouse effect and dry things faster.<br />
<br />
Moving the cubes around with the m59 is easy.  I'm incredibly pleased with the system.  I just move cubes up to the house as I need them.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Charlesaf3</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157504-cheap-quick-firewood-storage-transport.html</guid>
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			<title>Min fence post depth</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157479-min-fence-post-depth.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:13:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am running a line of fence down the rocky clay streak though my property. I have given up on the post driver since the post either wont go in or go...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am running a line of fence down the rocky clay streak though my property. I have given up on the post driver since the post either wont go in or go in very crooked. So I have started drilling the holes the thing is the last hole I was able to get to today has a rock too big for me to break. It is down 33&quot;. I have the posts 58&quot; above the ground. These are 4x4 line posts for a tensioned fence. So my question is how deep do I have to go and when can I call it good when I hit rocks?</div>

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			<dc:creator>Eric_Phillips</dc:creator>
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			<title>fall project - post pounding - more paddocks</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157448-fall-project-post-pounding-more.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:27:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hired the post pounder and local guy again to put some more paddocks in (take advantage of the good weather).  I ran the Tractor, loaded posts, etc....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hired the post pounder and local guy again to put some more paddocks in (take advantage of the good weather).  I ran the Tractor, loaded posts, etc. Sam did the pounding.  Day started a wee bit Frosty (-7) but got up to a Balmy 12 degrees (Tshirt weather).  We pounded 92 posts in 8 hours.  The Montana 5264 was the tow vehicle as you can see.  We're pounding into Pure Blue Clay here (once you get past the 6&quot; of topsoil.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/">Projects</category>
			<dc:creator>Dave5264</dc:creator>
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			<title>how hard to wire in concrete block?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157425-how-hard-wire-concrete-block.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 02:34:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[We are about to convert our garage into living space.  it's just 8 inch concrete block.  I have a clearance problem with an electric box in one...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We are about to convert our garage into living space.  it's just 8 inch concrete block.  I have a clearance problem with an electric box in one corner that hinders me from studding the wall  out with 2x4's.  There would enough clearance for stucco.<br />
 <br />
Questions: 1) how hard is it to DIY stucco?  2) how hard is it to run wiring vertically down through the block and and have flush electrical outlets in the block?  <br />
 <br />
 <br />
Is it any harder than studding it with 2x4s and finishing drywall?  Been there--done that, but not stucco and wiring inside block.</div>

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			<dc:creator>2manyrocks</dc:creator>
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			<title>Need some advice on water tank project</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/157370-need-some-advice-water-tank.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 14:55:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Up at my cabin, I placed a 1550 gallon black plastic water storage tank up on the hill behind camp this summer. The tank is just sitting on a flat...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Up at my cabin, I placed a 1550 gallon black plastic water storage tank up on the hill behind camp this summer. The tank is just sitting on a flat spot that I dug out with the Kubota. I knew there was more work to be done, but it was good enough for now. Well, I've already had a 2 inch ball valve freeze and break, dumping about 400 gallons down the hill. So I have decided to expidite my plans to get the tank in the ground. <br />
<br />
I have thought about several ways to get the tank protected, some cheaper than others. Money is a huge issue right now, so this is what I'm thinking: Bury the tank up to the bottom of the domed top section. The tank isn't meant to be completely buried, but I think I can get away with bringing dirt up the sides. To stabilize the sides from being pushed in from the weight of the dirt, I want to use corrugated tin sections, with the ridges running vertically. I will rivet te sections together and wrap them all the way around the tank. This should give me the strength I need to maintain the round shape of the tank. Thoughts? <br />
<br />
I drew a fairly accurate sketch on Google Sketchup.... thanks in advance for your input.</div>


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			<dc:creator>coreshot</dc:creator>
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