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		<title>TractorByNet.com - 2-Wheeled Tractors</title>
		<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums</link>
		<description>Discussion for all 2-wheeled tractors, such as BCS, Gravely and other brands.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:18:31 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>TractorByNet.com - 2-Wheeled Tractors</title>
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			<title>DR Mower-First Timer</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157433-dr-mower-first-timer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 04:35:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm calling it Mickey, because it really gives you  a work out-and I kind of feel like I've been chasing a chicken around a yard all day. The first...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm calling it Mickey, because it really gives you  a work out-and I kind of feel like I've been chasing a chicken around a yard all day. The first hour was spent mowing a level area that's like 150' x 150'. Mostly grass with some blackberrys thrown in here and there. I've decided it would be a good idea to hand a helper some lopping shears and clip any blackberry vines the machine misses in the first round to about 1-2' long. I kept tripping on the dang things until the machine lopped them off at the root. Two people could really utilize this thing to it's best advantage. Trading off, working the mower and clipping blackberries that could clothesline the operator. Next I took on the 6-7' tall scotch broom. More of a challenge. They're pretty densely packed and there were a lot of blackberrys in with them. That made it hard for the mower to push them down enough to <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> them off. A lot of times it just ran up the side of the brush. It's bad enough it couldn't <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> them down, but when the front goes up, the handlebars go down. Did a lot of bending down (how low can I go?) shifting into reverse and tackling another section. The mower has issues with medium size logs, dips and irregular earth too. Got hung up a couple of times where the wheels just spin, even locking the diff wouldn't help-just something that goes with 2 wheel drive I guess. I'll have to take the brush whacker and chain saw along next time too. When the blackberries are chest high, the mower putters off underneath happy as a lark pulling me into the darn things. I've got to find some kind of breathable, light weight top that can resist berry vines, but isn't too hot. I'm glad I spent the bucks for the hat with the screen and ear muffs. But knowing all these things is really a big help. I just have to plan my attacks in such a way to utilize the machines strengths, and keep it out of situations it (or I) can't handle. I'm really happy with it. It does what it's suppose to do. I had it on a shallow slope and didn't have any serious control issues. It is a work out though. I really feel I've gone the distance tonight. Good aerobic training. Good check on the heart too. I'm still typing, so everything must be ok. The gas tank, at 2.5 gallons, is big enough for me. I ran out of gas before the machine did. Note to the manufacturer: Can you add a LED on the panel that shows when the <acronym title="power take-off">PTO</acronym> is engaged? There's a pull-to-engage-the-<acronym title="power take-off">PTO</acronym> knob on the dash. When you're operating the machine, with your hearing protection on, you can't really tell if the blades are turning or not. The knob looks the same up or down. It's probably a newbie mistake(that I made about 5 times today) so you just get into the habit of pulling the knob up, but about 50 cents in wire and a LED would help a lot. Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike058</dc:creator>
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			<title>DR Chipper Attachment</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157306-dr-chipper-attachment.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 04:46:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I got my chipper today. It comes on a small pallet with the box being about 26"x26" by 30" tall. It weighs about 185lbs with hand holds on either...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I got my chipper today. It comes on a small pallet with the box being about 26&quot;x26&quot; by 30&quot; tall. It weighs about 185lbs with hand holds on either side. Two people could manage it easy. You have to bolt on the legs, discharge chute and hopper. They say you need two 1/2&quot; wrenches. I'd say one wrench and a socket with an extension. You'll need a universal joint too, but that's later. The legs went on pretty easy. You get nylon lock nuts instead of lock washers which is nice. A couple of them are a bit of a challenge to get to, to tighten. That's where the extension came in handy. The paint on one of the legs was scratched off, so I hit it with some black primer and the heat gun. The chute is next. There are four holes for attaching to the chipper body. Unfortunately one of the holes had a small sliver of steel left over from the drill. The chute fits tightly onto the body, so I had to file the sliver off, prime and hit it with the heat gun again.(I'm glad I have a heat gun :) ) Now for the hopper. I figured by this time something would just go on, no problem. Oh dear. Glad I have a file, black primer and a heat gun. The hopper is held on by carriage bolts. The hopper has four slots <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> into it. The shoulder of the carriage bolt is held on two sides by the slot. It passes through a hole in the body, and held on by washer and a nut. Well, the paint job (which overall is excellent) took up enough space in the slot to keep the carriage bolt from fitting into it. So I filed the paint away, masked off the area, and primed it. Ok, one more job. The operator presence device has to be overridden when you use the chipper. They supply a cable that goes from the &quot;dash&quot; down to about where the engine is. It has a relay on it and 3 connectors. First you have to unplug a really hard to unplug plug under the dash. I ended up needing some channel lock pliers to get a grip on the thing. The relay is mounted to the support for the gas tank. A ground wire is connected to the engine mounting stud just below and forward of the gas tank. This is where you need the u-joint for your socket. There are other wires attached to this ground point. The nut holding them on wasn't really hard to get loose. I think it was really too easy. I decided to put a bit of blue loc-tite on the threads of the nut before putting it back on. I was careful to not slop it around and mess up my ground though. So here I was, only have to hook the new cable up to the short cable coming from the chipper to start chipping away. Going to be easy, right? Guess again Buckwheat. Crazy cables are an inch away from connecting. So I start to look for some slack. Can't really get any from the long cable with the relay on it. The relay's screwed to the gas tank mount, 3 inches away. I tip the relay a bit and get a 1/4 inch or so on that end. The chipper side looks like my best bet. The cable is zip tied to a hole in the frame. I <acronym title="Compact Utility Tractor">cut</acronym> the zip tie and manage to get the slack I need to just barely plug them together so that nothing's touching anything hot (like the muffler that just happens to be right there). Finally some good news. The belt goes on no sweat. Belt cover, piece of cake. Engine turns over, pull the belt clutch knob and away she goes. Really very quite actually. I put a nice alder branch into the hopper and ratta-tat-tat it's a pile of chips sitting next to the machine. I'm going to call them about the cable though. If it's suppose to be zip tied to the chipper, it's going to have to be longer in order to reach.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike058</dc:creator>
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			<title>powered trailer</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157257-powered-trailer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:43:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Has anyone built a powered trailer like this?   
 
Walking Tractors (http://www.ferrari-tractors.com/products/walking.htm#Fort) Powered Trailers 
...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Has anyone built a powered trailer like this?  <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ferrari-tractors.com/products/walking.htm#Fort" target="_blank">Walking Tractors</a> Powered Trailers<br />
<br />
This unit is very expensive.<br />
<br />
Would the trailer wheels be driven by the BCS <acronym title="power take-off">PTO</acronym> or would the tractor have to be equipped with an additional drive shaft coordinated with the part of the transmission that power the tractor wheels?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>lkjhg</dc:creator>
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			<title>BCS, up in smoke</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157137-bcs-up-smoke.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:20:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Saturday I sent my bcs and sickle mower off for a tuneup. Last night the shop was in a 3 alarm fire. I don't know if the BCS is gone yet but I will...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Saturday I sent my bcs and sickle mower off for a tuneup. Last night the shop was in a 3 alarm fire. I don't know if the BCS is gone yet but I will try to find out thursday. I don't think the bcs had over a 100 hours on it and the sickle mower had about 15 hours. I sent the mower with the tractor for balance.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>jim_n_nh</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157137-bcs-up-smoke.html</guid>
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			<title>bcs605 acme AT330 governor-carburetor link</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/157126-bcs605-acme-at330-governor-carburetor.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:42:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[1.	Attached is a photo of Acme AT 330 12 hp engine governor to carburetor link on a BCS 605 tractor. 
a.	I purchased the 605 this summer [it was not...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>1.	Attached is a photo of Acme AT 330 12 <acronym title="Horsepower">hp</acronym> engine governor to carburetor link on a BCS 605 tractor.<br />
a.	I purchased the 605 this summer [it was not running] <br />
b.	Cannot get the engine to idle at a reasonable <acronym title="Revolutions Per Minute">RPM</acronym> [I do not have a tachometer].  Engine should idle at 1100 <acronym title="Revolutions Per Minute">RPM</acronym> [see Large Air-Cooled Engines, 1988 and prior, Service Manual, 4th edition, page 39]<br />
c.	The governor to carburetor link is threaded through the spring.  [see attached photo].  That is the way it was when I bought it.  Is that the correct assembly? I assume the spring's purpose is to hold the link in place.  Is that correct?  I also assume that this small spring does not have an effect on idle speed.  The spring does not seem to be causing the link to hold the throttle open.<br />
d.	I have adjusted the lever located below the carburetor that attaches to the throttle cable.  It moves freely.  <br />
e.	The coil spring that connects the lever to the base of the governor lever is in place.<br />
f.	The spring that pushes the lever back to the idle position is in place and seems to be strong.<br />
g.	If I push the governor lever in a direction away from the carburetor the throttle stop screw will touch the carburetor body and the engine will attain a much slower <acronym title="Revolutions Per Minute">RPM</acronym> that may be close to 1100 <acronym title="Revolutions Per Minute">RPM</acronym>.<br />
h.	Do you have suggestions for adjusting this linkage?</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>lkjhg</dc:creator>
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			<title>DR Brush mower deck</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156991-dr-brush-mower-deck.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 04:01:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I haven't gotten a chance to take it out for a spin yet. But in trying to move from one part of the shed to another, I stepped on the deck in order...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I haven't gotten a chance to take it out for a spin yet. But in trying to move from one part of the shed to another, I stepped on the deck in order to get over the machine (no room to go around). I weigh 180 and the deck didn't flex a smidge. Solid like a tank. <br />
<br />
I have the thicker blade for it and was wondering if a 1/2&quot; breaker bar will be enough to remove the nut.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike058</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156991-dr-brush-mower-deck.html</guid>
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			<title>Am I ready for snow?</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156726-am-i-ready-snow.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 01:33:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[You Betcha! 
 
Here's a pic of my 850 and 36 inch dozer blade with a 60 inch snow blade modded to fit on it.  I was running a 42 inch blade on the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>You Betcha!<br />
<br />
Here's a pic of my 850 and 36 inch dozer blade with a 60 inch snow blade modded to fit on it.  I was running a 42 inch blade on the front of the dozer blade last year and felt it was too narrow.  Maybe 60 inches is too wide...?  I want to find another set of 5-12 tires and dual it up if I can't push.<br />
<br />
If there's too much snow, I'll switch over to my new-to-me 605 with a 28 inch snowblower.  I used the snowblower on my 730 last year with great results.  The 605 has a couple advantages over the 730.  First, it's spline drive, like the snowblower, so no adapter needed.  Second, differential and brakes.  I had free-wheel devices on the 730, so it was every bit as maneuverable as the 605, but the free-wheel devices have some limitations I've discussed here before.  Third, more speed options.  This actually won't be an advantage in snowblowing.  I'll be sticking with the same gears I used on the 730.<br />
<br />
After this weekend, I'm hoping for snow!</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>farmerboybill</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156726-am-i-ready-snow.html</guid>
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			<title>bcs 850</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156290-bcs-850-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 22:39:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[so, just accuried an 850, wonder if I ley my set get carried away 
 
14 hp bs engine 
12" wheels 
wheel weights 
bush hog type mower 
dozer blade...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>so, just accuried an 850, wonder if I ley my set get carried away<br />
<br />
14 <acronym title="Horsepower">hp</acronym> bs engine<br />
12&quot; wheels<br />
wheel weights<br />
bush hog type mower<br />
dozer blade<br />
turning plow<br />
trailer<br />
starts &amp; seems to run ok<br />
<br />
bad:<br />
carb needs work.. sticks open/floods gas to crancase if fuel not shut off after use.<br />
<br />
cables could stnad replaceing<br />
Brakes don't seem to work.<br />
<br />
cost around 1400</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>tecknomage</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156290-bcs-850-a.html</guid>
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			<title>commercial 8 gravely</title>
			<link>http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/156282-commercial-8-gravely.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:59:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a Commercial 8 gravely that is not electric start  and is yellow and has the original paint on it and I want to know how rare it is because...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a Commercial 8 gravely that is not electric start  and is yellow and has the original paint on it and I want to know how rare it is because every were i look I cannot find them.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2-wheeled-tractors/">2-Wheeled Tractors</category>
			<dc:creator>bolensman23</dc:creator>
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