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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    2
    Tractor
    JD 2305, IH Farmall 400

    Default Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    Bought 2 acres next door. House was burnt and totaled. Tractor thrown in the deal for free. Looking for info to get it up and running. It is rumored to have been run "recently" but recently could not be specified. Need advice on how to get it running. I can do whatever it takes to get it running. I have all the tools and the skill.

    It definitely has a large hole in the exhaust manifold. Tires are pretty rough.

    Ser. No. is 10924 SJ. Think it's a 1955 or 1956 400, based on net search.


    Thanks for any help.

























  2. #2
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    2,825
    Location
    Northern, IL
    Tractor
    Branson 2400H

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    Drain the fuel sediment bowl and check for water. Is the fuel turning to varnish? If yes will probably have to clean the carb also.

    Check the oil level. Does it look like tar or oil.

    Are the plug wires, cap, rotor, points all in working condition.

    Any water /anti-freeze in the radiator?

    Will probably need the battery charged or a new battery. Is this one 6 or 12 volt? Can't remember when they switched over.

    These where tough old machines so don't be to surprised that with a little tune-up it will run.

    If trying to hand crank do NOT stand over the crank. These old girls have broken more than a few arms, wrists, ribs, skulls, etc.
    Artificial Intelligence will never overcome natural stupidity.

    Branson 2400H MMM & FEL

    JD 112

    BX1850 gone but not forgotten

  3. #3
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    348
    Location
    Pleasant View, TN
    Tractor
    Mahindra 3325

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    I would squirt a little oil down each spark plug hole and let it sit for a few days brefore i tried to turn it over. Thiose clynder walls will be extremely dry. A little oil will lossen them up some.

    I di this to a Farmall AV which was frozen tight from sittiing. It took a while but i brooke it loose. It ran but i still but new sleeves in the motor.

    New sleeves and pistons shouldn't cost that mich.

    Don
    Country Life Beats Working.

    Less than 1 month to Retirement

  4. #4
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    3,118
    Location
    Trivoli, IL
    Tractor
    SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    it has been a real long time since i have seen it done.

    but on these old tractors. can ya pull them up on top of a hill. and point them down wards. and let them coast a little a let the clutch out to get them to turn over?

    i only remember having to do this a couple times when a teenager on a couple friends small sized trucks.

    ================
    btw 6volt batteries / tractors like the allis chalmers CA i have are down right no fun. more so if battery ends up being drained. trying find a "charger" that can do 6 volts is one thing. trying find a charger that can be used to help boost the battery for a quick start has be a very hard challenge for me. there out there but they cost a good amount of cash. and if i have a dead battery due to some problem. i tend to have to wait a few hours before trying to restart things back up. due to slow trickle charging of the cheaper battery chargers out there for 6volt batteries.

    don't try and jump start a 6volt battery / tractor with your 12volt vehicle. quickly had to replace alternator on s10 blazer. that was rather costly repair.
    Ryan

  5. #5
    Elite Member sandman2234's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    4,111
    Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
    Tractor
    JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    Those tires look good since they are still holding air! When they won't hold air, then you start getting a little creative in keeping them going. Last resort is to spend the money to replace them because most likely they aren't going to be cheap.
    David from jax
    A serious accident is one that money won't fix.

  6. #6
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Posts
    8,159
    Location
    Shingle Springs California
    Tractor
    New Holland TC40D

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    At a minimum, I would start with a good charged battery and fresh gas. If the hand crank is there, I would see if it turns by hand, just to see if the motor is not seized. If it turns, then drain the gas, and clean the filter. Add fresh, and make sure it is flowing to the carb.

    Before turning trying to fire it, I would check the oil and coolant. If that is ok, then turn it over and make sure it has spark. If so, then try to fire it. If it fires, then let it warm up, shut it down, and drain the old oil. Put fresh oil and filter on it.

    Then, put a tuneup in it; plugs, wires ect.

    The wiring harness looks like a mess... That may make things challenging.
    RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif

  7. #7
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    56
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Tractor
    1953 Farmall Super M

    Default

    I would also check the hydralic oil for the live hydralic pump, so it doesn't get burned up. It should have a reservoir near our under the gas tank. If this is low or empty your power steering won't work at all. I see it has a torque amplifier (the long lever on the left of the platform). Make sure it moves all the way forward and back. Keep in mind that even if the lever moves the TA could still be bad or worn out (jumpy). A lot of times the reason these old girls were parked is that the TA went out and the tractor would be stuck in either high or low. This is one of the more expensive things on it to replace ~800 dollars. Yours could work perfectly BUT rust, moisture, and sitting reek havoc on TAs. As for 6v or 12v, look at the generator's tag as it should be stamped 12v or 6v. Also make sure all the control leavers move and work along with the brakes make sure they aren't frozen. Look to see if your live pto is stuck or not and if the lever to engage it is stuck or not. Do not try to pull to start or roll to start, that's a really quick way to get a bent push or connecting rod. One more thing to check before starting is the transmission's great oil, there should be a small plug on the left side of the case about half way up if I remember correctly.

    +1 on putting a manly squirt of marvel or plain oil in each cylinder before starting. I would also add some Marvel and Sta-bil (or Seafoam if you prefer) in the gas to start with to clean out some of the nastys in the fuel system and to keep everything lubed. If you really want it to start easily put some higher test "real" gas in. The extra buck or two total will save you a lot of headaches.

    Also have a good fire extinguisher around...you just never know what could ground out or belch fire. One final thing have a buddy there ready to pull the ground cable on the battery if something does ground out.

    Hope this helps,
    Bruce
    Lincoln 400-SAE Gas Powered Welder
    Forney 225AMP AC Welder
    1953 Farmall Super M Duals Wide Front 3pt
    1951 McCormick-Deering WD6
    1949 Case LA
    19522 Allis-Chalmers TL-10 Tracto-Loader

    Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from a lot of bad judgment. -Anonymous

  8. #8
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    56
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Tractor
    1953 Farmall Super M

    Default

    I would also check the hydralic oil for the live hydralic pump, so it doesn't get burned up. It should have a reservoir near our under the gas tank. If this is low or empty your power steering won't work at all. I see it has a torque amplifier (the long lever on the left of the platform). Make sure it moves all the way forward and back. Keep in mind that even if the lever moves the TA could still be bad or worn out (jumpy). A lot of times the reason these old girls were parked is that the TA went out and the tractor would be stuck in either high or low. This is one of the more expensive things on it to replace ~800 dollars. Yours could work perfectly BUT rust, moisture, and sitting reek havoc on TAs. As for 6v or 12v, look at the generator's tag as it should be stamped 12v or 6v. Also make sure all the control leavers move and work along with the brakes make sure they aren't frozen. Look to see if your live pto is stuck or not and if the lever to engage it is stuck or not. Do not try to pull to start or roll to start, that's a really quick way to get a bent push or connecting rod. One more thing to check before starting is the transmission's great oil, there should be a small plug on the left side of the case about half way up if I remember correctly.

    +1 on putting a manly squirt of marvel or plain oil in each cylinder before starting. I would also add some Marvel and Sta-bil (or Seafoam if you prefer) in the gas to start with to clean out some of the nastys in the fuel system and to keep everything lubed. If you really want it to start easily put some higher test "real" gas in. The extra buck or two total will save you some headaches.

    Also have a good fire extinguisher around...you just never know what could ground out or belch fire. One final thing have a buddy there ready to pull the ground cable on the battery if something does ground out.

    Hope this helps,
    Bruce
    Lincoln 400-SAE Gas Powered Welder
    Forney 225AMP AC Welder
    1953 Farmall Super M Duals Wide Front 3pt
    1951 McCormick-Deering WD6
    1949 Case LA
    19522 Allis-Chalmers TL-10 Tracto-Loader

    Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from a lot of bad judgment. -Anonymous

  9. #9
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    56
    Location
    Northern Colorado
    Tractor
    1953 Farmall Super M

    Default

    Sorry about the double post, I got a error the first time so I hit the button again. Maybe one of the mods can get rid of it?
    Lincoln 400-SAE Gas Powered Welder
    Forney 225AMP AC Welder
    1953 Farmall Super M Duals Wide Front 3pt
    1951 McCormick-Deering WD6
    1949 Case LA
    19522 Allis-Chalmers TL-10 Tracto-Loader

    Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from a lot of bad judgment. -Anonymous

  10. #10
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    4,090
    Location
    Canada
    Tractor
    MF

    Default Re: Had a Farmall 400 thrown in to land purchase for free

    You will first want to see if the engine is still free, then check all the fluids in the machine. You will probably have to clean the carb and replace the fuel. You should replace the plugs if they are all carbond up. Be ready for anything to happen when you go to start it. Have a fire extinguisher ready.

    The tractor looks good and the tires are in good shape. Do you plan on restoring it or leaving it the way it is right now and use it for work.

    Try not to stand in front of it when you try to start it. It could be stuck in gear and take off soon as it fires up and run you over. The safest place is probably in the seat ready to throw the clutch or hit the kill switch.

    You got a good looking machine. Good luck getting it running.

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