C trike new project

[Soundguy]

no extra fuel tank, however.. I have seen a few things swapped around on this machine.. for instance the belt pulley is missing and someone torch cut a blank off plate for the back. did a good job but you can tell if you look close at the edges it is torched. I may hit it with an angle grinder to further dress it.

the fan hub / tensioner arangement at the top water inlet has me a bit puzzled. either it's a tad froze up.. or I'm, not trying to loosen / adjust it correctly..

 

[fuseboxer]

1948: 501
1949: 22624
1950: 47010
1951: 71880


Looks like a keeper. You got the first year 1948 and the tires look so good! I sold an old Oliver last year when faced with $2000. for new back tires/tubes and inner rims. Looks like a fun project/investment.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/farmall-vintage-tractors/21883-1953-farmall-super-c.html


Added link late looks like you.

 

[Soundguy]

back tires are checked, one is a bit cracked, both a tad dry.. but holding air and have lots of tread. one tire is a bit better than the other.. both fronts are obvious replacements mismatched tread at that.... but all holding air

yep.. very early 48.

soundguy

 

[wolc123]

It is nice to see you diversifying a little on the colors. I own a Cub and have spent quite a few hours on an H and A but never a C. I understand they are the same displacement as the A but slightly more compression and hp. I also love having a trike on my farm (currently have an AC C). I think that the AC C and the Farmall C are almost exactly the same size and hp. I have never had a battery on my C, but it always starts good with the crank. You cant beat a trike for manuverability in the woods, cultivating, or for mowing with a belly-mount. I think you will find that the biggest advantage of the Farmalls over the Fords of that era, was operating PTO driven implements. The drawbacks were: difficult getting on and off the operator's platform and no 3 pt hitch, which is why I will still take my Ford 8n over any other old tractor. The 8n cant do it all best however, and I am thankfull for my Farmall Cub, while cultivating, my AC C, while dragging logs out of the woods, and my JD 4120, while doing loader work or bush-hogging.

 

[Soundguy]

i love trikes. have plenty of ford ones.

I already have a few colors in the barn.. 50 jd B, 66 IH cub, 49 Allis G.. etc

couldn't pass this C up.

Have it up on cribbing now.. front pedistal off.. sheet metal off and crank hub pulley off timing cover.. egovernor.. etc.

just waiting for parts and gaskets and seals.

soundguy

 

[DJ54]

If you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of your crank pulley, puller, if you don't mind...

What brand of jack..?? Walkers used to be the only ones that would still jack horizontally. Still have them, and probably a couple of them made in the 50's. But way too big for that. Smallest is a 5 tonner.

Years ago, I made a more or less backer out of a couple pieces of 1/8" X 2" angle, and bolted together, spanning the pulley. Then used a big two jaw puller, and also made a like 2" spacer slug out of 1" round stock, with a dimple drilled in it to center the puller, for when I ran out of threads...

Po' people got po' ways..., LOL...

 

[Soundguy]

I used a 16 ton.. and a 4 ton.. 4 ton did nada..

they are harbor freight jacks. worked fine.

as long as oil level is over the intake for the small cyl.. it should work.

ok, 1st pic is my puller.. basically a large bearing splitter, and then 2 long bolts to a piece of plate, and a jack between them. this piloted on a gr8 bolt screwed into the end of the crank.

I built mine based ont he pics that follow it .. ideas that other 'C' owners sent me when they pulled or installed their pulleys.

at least 1 pic shows a pusher not a puller, as to reinstall.. some show a C plate instead of bearing spliteer.

one shows the exact bearing splitter I used.. pittsburgh.. etc..

basically.. everyone is/was using bottle jacks to pull the A-B-C pullies..

mine actually broke the pulley as it was jb welded on...

 

[DJ54]

OUCH...!!

Thanks for the pics, I appreciate it..!!

A buddy of mine had his neighbor, a retired machinest make a, like bearing splitter, but it fit the taper on the back of the pulley. That way, your pretty well pulling all across the back face. He made more, and they sold a number of them on the Cub site, and epay...

Been thinking the past couple of years, of having him make me one for the 113's & 123's. I've got six on various models, so it would be worth it.

Since all of my engine rebuilds were done in the winter, I'd set the pulley on top of the coal furnace, and let it warm up. I can tap them right on with my soft face dead blow hammer, with no problem.

 

[Soundguy]

i had this bearing splitter fit pretty good to the taper on back. if you look at the break onthe face of pulley flange.. it broke 'out' of the front of the pulley hub.. taper went with it!

jb weld is some good stuff apparrently when applied to an already keyed and interferenced fit shaft/hub

I wonder if jb weld would pay me to use those pics on their advertisement.

'So tought you can cast iron rip pullies apart before the hub will seperate from the crankshaft! '

 

[DJ54]

Yeah, that stuff seems to really be tough, maybe where you really don't need it, LOL...

Remember the display's, where they had two valve's JB welded together..?? You could take them off, and try to "break" them apart... I am assuming by hand. One rainy day, me, and two buddies were "shopping" at the local TSC. They took the valves, and placed on the concrete floor. One stood on the one end, and the other kinda' jumped on the other. On the third attempt, they "broke" them apart... They then placed it back on the display. I always wondered what they did with them..., LOL...

Good luck finding a reasonable replacement.