My Cub is toast

   / My Cub is toast
  • Thread Starter
#11  
preheat.. use propane .. it's cheap.

consider stitch / dowling the repair first if you can.. they will help prevent distortion too, also if you can bolt the flange to a jig to keep it true instead of drawing like it will want too.

slow cool.. peen to reduce stress...

Thanks for the hints.
I thought stitching (Lock-n-Stitch?) only worked on cracks where the pieces were cracked partially and are still together. My problem is different since that bolster attachment flange cracked off completely from the block.
 
   / My Cub is toast #12  
Don't know squat about welding or the particulars of how this thing goes together, but could you make some sort of gusset or backing plate out of 1" steel plate? Might have to get a little machining done to make holes and shapes line up. Just thinking out loud, closest I have ever gotten to welding is sweating copper water pipes.
 
   / My Cub is toast #13  
my reference is towards stitch / dowling. ie, see if you can find places to drill thru the broken off flange into the parent metal and then prep for a dowel or threaded dowel (stud ) machine the area of the flange so you can put a pal nut on and literally bolt he part into place using a couple studs and nuts and then weld up and weld the studs head in or grind off, etc.. etc.

Think of it like rebar in concrete. ie.. something bridging the 2 parts.

iv'e done it on cracked shotgun but stocks using dowel rod to secure 2 parts before gluing, then trimming dowels off, sanding and re-staining.

have done it on limited basis with metal repair.

as for the jig.. weld up something that can bolt to the block and mate with t he flange to hold it true once you have it doweled ( if you go that route, or otherwise hold it true and tight, and then do the welds. this will prevent the flange from drawing one way or the other and thus being deformed and not stressed and try to re-crack along the repair when you bolt it up and are forcing pressure against the bent part.

ps.. go into this repair knowing you have a bad block, and think of it as a practice or learning experience.. if the repair fails.. you still learned some techniques.. if it works, you went from a bad block, to one that may be bad again.. at some point :) or may not... :) :)

one last thing. if there are areas that you could add external stiffeners on either the inside or outside, investigage that and then find some plate or thick angle you can heat and form on an anvil to match contour perfectly, and then find appropriate places to bolt it thr/to the block and damaged flange. BT/DT using a 'sandwich plate on a broken ear on a casting /flange where I had access to both sides .. ie.. to the top/outside of the damaged flange and to the back side of the flange it mated with.. used a plate on either side and long bolts thru.. plates were shaped like the flange and extened thru a couple more bolt holes down each side to spread out streeses to areas past the damage. I see repairs liek that on loader tractors all the time where soemthing breaks out a loader attach pont in a piece of cast, adn they scab a subframe around it using other fasteners to carry the weight , plus the repaired area.

soundguy
 
   / My Cub is toast #14  
I repaired Cub Head ,,with these methods, Be sure not weld too much at a time..Like soundman said about 1 inch..Watch for flux when you are peening..I had to touch up a spot,, as it was a water jacket. I had a deep vee ground out and used the nickle rods.
 
   / My Cub is toast
  • Thread Starter
#15  
my reference is towards stitch / dowling. ie, see if you can find places to drill thru the broken off flange into the parent metal and then prep for a dowel or threaded dowel (stud ) machine the area of the flange so you can put a pal nut on and literally bolt he part into place using a couple studs and nuts and then weld up and weld the studs head in or grind off, etc.. etc.

Think of it like rebar in concrete. ie.. something bridging the 2 parts.

iv'e done it on cracked shotgun but stocks using dowel rod to secure 2 parts before gluing, then trimming dowels off, sanding and re-staining.

have done it on limited basis with metal repair.

as for the jig.. weld up something that can bolt to the block and mate with t he flange to hold it true once you have it doweled ( if you go that route, or otherwise hold it true and tight, and then do the welds. this will prevent the flange from drawing one way or the other and thus being deformed and not stressed and try to re-crack along the repair when you bolt it up and are forcing pressure against the bent part.

ps.. go into this repair knowing you have a bad block, and think of it as a practice or learning experience.. if the repair fails.. you still learned some techniques.. if it works, you went from a bad block, to one that may be bad again.. at some point :) or may not... :) :)

one last thing. if there are areas that you could add external stiffeners on either the inside or outside, investigage that and then find some plate or thick angle you can heat and form on an anvil to match contour perfectly, and then find appropriate places to bolt it thr/to the block and damaged flange. BT/DT using a 'sandwich plate on a broken ear on a casting /flange where I had access to both sides .. ie.. to the top/outside of the damaged flange and to the back side of the flange it mated with.. used a plate on either side and long bolts thru.. plates were shaped like the flange and extened thru a couple more bolt holes down each side to spread out streeses to areas past the damage. I see repairs liek that on loader tractors all the time where soemthing breaks out a loader attach pont in a piece of cast, adn they scab a subframe around it using other fasteners to carry the weight , plus the repaired area.

soundguy

OK, now I understand what you're saying. Good idea--I'll see what I can do along those lines. There are plenty of holes close to the break area for the timing gear cover. I could use several of these to carry a backing plate to align the broken part on the block prior to drilling and welding.

Don't know about a permanent stiffener-- i.e. if it's feasible to scab something in that area of the block. I'll check some of the Cub enthusiasts websites later today to see if anyone there has come up with a stiffener design or some other neat fix.
 
   / My Cub is toast
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I repaired Cub Head ,,with these methods, Be sure not weld too much at a time..Like soundman said about 1 inch..Watch for flux when you are peening..I had to touch up a spot,, as it was a water jacket. I had a deep vee ground out and used the nickle rods.

Thanks for the input. I'll practice welding with the nickel rods on some scrap cast iron. None of the local welding suppliers had any in stock so I ordered some Ferroweld sticks off the Web.
 
   / My Cub is toast #17  
That's a nice old tractor. Hope your able to get it fixed.

Chad
 
   / My Cub is toast
  • Thread Starter
#18  
   / My Cub is toast #19  
too bad.. sorry to hear it wasn't repairable. i knew with that type of damage it was going to be a long shot anyway.

oh well.. do part it.. don't scrap anything but the single broken casting. every single piece can be used.. piston crank and all..
 
   / My Cub is toast
  • Thread Starter
#20  
too bad.. sorry to hear it wasn't repairable. i knew with that type of damage it was going to be a long shot anyway.

oh well.. do part it.. don't scrap anything but the single broken casting. every single piece can be used.. piston crank and all..

You're right--everything is usable except the block. I'm looking for another Cub locally. No hurry--the hunt is the best part of the deal:eek:
 
 
Top