Farmall 130 tire question

   / Farmall 130 tire question #1  

upgw

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2001
Messages
336
Location
SE PA
Tractor
2001 Kubota BX2200, 2011 Hustler Super Z 31 Kawi
As several people commented when I last posted a picture of my 'new' 1957 Farmall 130, the rear tires are VERY shot. I can order new tires (11.2x24 road/traction) off the internet for about $200 each including shipping, the question is, is pulling the old ones and mounting the new ones doable without special equipment? I assume I'll need a good set of tire irons. Anybody have experience with this?

Thanks,
-Patrick
 
   / Farmall 130 tire question #2  
Patrick, you'll need to jack up the tractor to remove lug nuts or bolts to remove the wheel. Special tool? Impact wrench sure is nice, but a socket and long enough handle can do it. You need a valve core tool to remove the valve core to deflate the tire. They're cheap at any auto parts store. Then you have to break the bead loose on both sides. Special tools are made for that, in several different styles, manual or air powered. But in a tight, I've laid a wheel on the ground and carefully driven the front wheel of a car or pickup across the tire as close to the wheel as possible without actually getting on the wheel. Then you turn it over and do the over side. Then you need a couple of tire irons, although really big screwdrivers can be used in a tight. When you start to put the new tire on, it goes easier if you lubricate the bead with soapy water. And then you need a rubber mallet in most cases, although it's possible (but not a good idea) to use a hammer instead. Are you going to put tube type or tubeless tires on it? If a tube, just get the tube in before you put the second side of the tire onto the rim, get it straight, with the valve stem properly lined up and in the valve stem hole of the wheel. If you have the right tool for removing the valve core, it can be used to hold the new valve stem in place. Just make sure you don't pinch the tube in getting that second side of the tire onto the wheel. I'd air it up without the valve core in it, then let the air out to let the tube relax and be sure it's straight, then put the valve core in. If it's a tubeless tire, you may have a problem getting it to take air to seat the bead. Again, special tools are made, but in a tight, you can wrap a ratcheting strap around the center of the bead, or use the cable on a come-a-long wench to squeeze the center of the tread in, which will expand the bead outward to seat on the rim. You have to remember to start loosening that as soon as the bead seals and the tire starts to take air.

Nothing to it, when you've been doing it a few years. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
   / Farmall 130 tire question #3  
Bird just gave you 'tire 101' and great info. I just did tires on my 1946 2N.. Had some pretty pitted rims.. but I cleaned them up decently.

All said and done.. I'll let the tire man mount them next time.. he only charges about 15 bucks to mount a tractor tire.. 20 if it is a monster.. or bigun..


Soundguy
 
   / Farmall 130 tire question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks for the tire info. Local tire guy has Armstrong Titan tires, both an R1 (long bar) and an R?? Long-bar short bar, $150 and $168 each respectively. Question is, which will provide the smoother road ride will still giving good pull??

Thanks,
- Patrick
 
   / Farmall 130 tire question #5  
On my NH 1920 I have longbar/short bar.. and it is felt when you ride on the road. I have longbar on my '50 JD B, and my '46 ford 2N and it isn't bad. My JD is going to be similar in size to your 130..

I brefer the longbar on the road.

soundguy
 
 
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