What Oil and Lube for my Ford 640??

[Old Hippy]

Just picked up an old project for me.

Decal inside the hood says engine 10 wt below 10F 30wt over 32F, something like that... 10-30 synthetic Valvoline OK??

Differential and Tranny say 80 and 90 weight 'mineral' oil depending on temps?? Huh wazzat?? As long as I can find an 80-90 Gear lube with an MT-1 designation I should be OK even if there is some Brass bushings etc??? Or amI way off??


Hydraulics take what fluid?? It has an old Dearborn loader ( the spider!) what fluid would it like?? It has a front mounted Vane pump.. Looks like it is 1950's era too..

Steering gear box wants what kind of lube??

Everything is milky white except the engine oil which looks fresh.. I want to get the moisure out of it before Wisconsin Freezes upand cracks something!

Thanks in advance!

 

[Soundguy]

If you are in arctic temps.. run a good 10w30 oil. I'd save the synthetic stuff for your car... As long as your oil pressur eis good on the 10/30 you should be good to go. If the engine has been rebuilt in the last decade.. then yeah.. you can safely run synthetics..

trans and diffy cn use 80w90 gear oil.. OR UTF fluid meeting the ford M2C134D spec. Hyds can use plain hyd oil... like aw32 or UTF fluid meeting the ford spec.

I used to use TSC UTF fluid.. but switched to walmart UTF fluid due to price.

soundguy

 

[Old Hippy]

Thanks! for the encouragement! I was getting all kinds of conflicting advice.. 30 weight Non, 10 weight.. UTF in all except engine.. I think some of the local folks thought I was asking about an 8N with the combined sump?

Ran the old 640 for an hour puttering around flattening out the 4 dump truck loads of or so of gravel I had delivered to extend the driveway and the loader guy never showed up... and decided that with everything warmed up it was time to drop all the fluids.. Engine oil was still full and looked reasonably clean compared to the other fluids, so I replaced with 10-30 Valvoline Synth.. Oil pressure warm after the change over is still 40 at low idle and 70 at full RPM and up against the governor..

Dropped all the other 3 drain plugs.. only got fluid out of ONE drain hole.. a moment of WHAT THE???!! and then I realized I had a seal of crud that had formed a solid layer on the bottom of the Diff and Transmission and were not letting the cruddy fluids drain.. I poked a screw driver in and swirled and the white milky crap came out.. I refilled diff and tranny with 80-90 gear lube and hydraulics with UTF drove over to the neighbors and moved some manure.. drove back.. 2 miles round trip and 30 minutes working and the diff and Tranny are both black as coal.. I am guessing I should dump and refill again.. One of the old timers ( the one that suggested 30 weight non in the engine, so I am reluctant to take his advice) said to pour in a quart of Kerosene and drive a while and then dump them.. Any thoughts??

Oh, and the Steering gear supposedly says it takes a Pint to fill ( gear lube?) but it looks like I have to pull sheet metal to get at the steering gear?? Or am I just going blind? Is there an easier way to get at the steering gear box?

 

[Charlie175]

The kero in theory will "wash" the transmission, the only problem is where is all that crud going?

 

[Soundguy]

Oh, and the Steering gear supposedly says it takes a Pint to fill ( gear lube?) but it looks like I have to pull sheet metal to get at the steering gear?? Or am I just going blind? Is there an easier way to get at the steering gear box?

Yep.. time to get the glasses updated... the sheet metal does not in any way prevent you from pulling the lil plug on the steering box to add lube.

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

Yuck, sounds like the prior owner thought he had 1,000,000 acre oils in the trans and differential!

I would add a gallon of kero or diesel and run for an hour then dump and fill with UTF. Run that for the winter and then change to your final fluid in the spring. Should be clean by then.

Typically water gets in the trans from the shift lever boot being worn. They are like 5 bucks and not too hard to install. Soak in HOT water, grease the shaft and metal parts then slide the new on on quick while it is still hot and pliable.

 

[jinman]

One of the old timers ( the one that suggested 30 weight non in the engine, so I am reluctant to take his advice) said to pour in a quart of Kerosene and drive a while and then dump them.. Any thoughts??

That "old timer" who told you about the 30 wt ND oil is telling you exactly what Ford recommended. HD oil was developed for auto engines when hydraulic valve lifters came out. The detergent in the oil will keep sludge in suspension and keep the lifters from sticking. Your tractor does not have hydraulic lifters; yours are solid. As a result, if ND oil has been used in the engine for many years, sludge may be built up in out of the way places. Putting in a detergent oil or synthetic may cause sludge to go into solution and you may notice your engine oil looks very dirty all of a sudden.

I would certainly not change to a synthetic oil in an engine that had been run for years on regular oil. These days, it's harder and harder to find non-detergent oil, so a multigrade in winter and 30 wt in summer is probably your best choice. I'd not use the synthetic unless the engine had a recent overhaul and I'd used synthetic from the beginning, just as Soundguy suggested. As a minimum, it's not needed, and it could cause excess sludge in the oil for a few changes.

I think the kerosene in the transmission and hydraulics is fine. You shouldn't do any heavy work with the tractor, but you should run it long enough to thoroughly clean the reservoir. After you are satisfied, fill the reservoir with the lube of choice. The only way to get it cleaner is to do disassembly. I don't think anyone would suggest that.

 

[Fergie Bach]

For what it's worth I think diesel would be better than kerosene as it lubricates better. I would half fill it and drive about a bit, drain straight away and flush with a little more clean diesel. Depending on how much rubbish comes out maybe repeat. Just my HO

 

[mayer2323]

I was told ford 741 fulid in everything but the engine.I have a 841

 

[Soundguy]

741 fluid?

134 is the 'go to' spec as far as I know.. as in M2C134(A+)

soundguy