some progress on the 850

   / some progress on the 850 #1  

Soundguy

Old Timer
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Messages
52,238
Location
Central florida
Tractor
RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
ok.. so got off work early today.. wasn't busy.. decided to go beat on the old tractor.

pulled the trailer around and backed it up so the trailer was right in front of the bay door. i like to do my initial servicing of my new tractors while still on the trailer so i can move them around and get all around and under them easier.

first order of business was repalcing the lower radiator hose that was also rubbing the ps belt.. took the hose off in pieces.. it was pieced together from 2 hoses and had pvc fittings inside of it!!

oem hose didn't fit good due to the belt, so I opted for a 25" flex hose ( 1.5" id ) and an extra rad clamp. this hose had a spring so it did not kink off as well. at the place of the highest bend near the belt I added a hose clamp that makde the hose stay round and more open vs trying to flatten and close... repair looks decent.. and the hose doesn't stick out any past the loader frame that made it oh-so- easy (not ) to work on.

next I pulle dthe trans detents and springs and replaced 3rd. it was worn a lil as they all were. new spring was longer / stiffer. 3rd feels like it locks in better now.. oh yeah.. spring story. when I pulle dthe plastic baggie open, spring shot of into my shop and I spent 5 minutes with a flashlight trying to find it.. landed UNDER the rider lawnmower..

started looking at the hoses. about half of them have been repalced in the last decade.. but 5 of them look scarry.. no rubber left.. and rusty wire braid, chaffed in some areas and bulgeing!

so, I rummaged around my spares box and came up with 3 of the hoses I needed, all bew of course, leftovers from other projects. so headed to tsc to get more hoses as napa had just closed.

4 of the hoses were male to male pipe, and one was male pipe to female pipe swivel.

picked up the mal to male hoses and a swivel adapter.. got down to the bucket cyl ( they looked the worst) and wouldn't you know it.. the 90 adapter into the block on the bucket cyl sheared off when i tried to take the hose loose.. GRRR..

an easy out tapped into the hollw broken portion easilly extracted the broke nipple.. I found another adapter and homefully it's in tight and won't leak now.

one of the connections was from the valve to the hard lines running down the arms.. boy was that sucker on tight. nearly fell off the trailer when it came loose.. :)

am replacing the oem crank breather with a universal one that is a lil smaller as it interferes with my rube goldber'd lower rad hose a bit.

grabbed some more chain and clevis's to hook up the check chains in the rear. also tightened down a loose fender bolt.. no more wobbly fenders. noticed the loader mounts were nice enough to incorporate sway par hookups.. so will add those as well, later on.

tires are loaded calc..e tc. got all the oils I need to do a full service. notice dthe vent cap on top of the loader resv was broke and so loader oil supply is wet. will drain and flush and replace. made a new plastic preather cap for the loader resv.

speaking of oil.. here are some price comparisons I noted.

15w40 diesel oil, traveler brand, 10.94 per gallon,.. vs walmart supertech at 10$

tsc UTF fluid at 35$ per 5g compair to walmart at 39.85 per 5g.

walmart r&o hyd oil was 36$ per 5g.

tsc iso 32 and 46 hyd oils were a whopping 42$

why buy an iso 32 hyd oil for 42$ when utf is 35$

even better.. tsc has a brand of 303 oil.. says it meets some but not all transmission and hyd specs for new tractors, meets most old specs, and should perform fine as a general hyd oil. 25$ per 5g.

thus I bought that for my loader oil. already have utf for the tractor hyds.

a quick look over the tractor shows an expanded metal front grill has been made for it, as well it has a new, decent fitting radiator. my guess is something pushed thru the oem grill and ate the radiator thus the expanded metal grill.

I'm tempted to leave it like that too.

also notice I have one front stud broke off. and amazingly it ain't welded to the hub inthe back!! thus i'll pop it out and drive a new one in maybee on friday.

by that time I was already working by trouble light so threw in the towel and came in and made some dinner.

did find 2 small cracks on the loader frame and bucket that will need welded. nutting major. looks like a 2 rod job. more work on friday i guess!

soundguy
 
   / some progress on the 850 #2  
I buy my motor oils at Wal-mart, because most of their jugs are, at least in this area, 5 quart jugs, where as TSC, and the autoparts stores are only 4 qts., and usually the same price, or within a buck.

And I've used that 303 oil in my old Case 310B backhoe. Doesn't seem to hurt near as bad when I see a few dribbles here and there.., LOL...
 
   / some progress on the 850
  • Thread Starter
#3  
yeah.. 25 bucks .. can't beat that.

soundguy
 
   / some progress on the 850
  • Thread Starter
#4  
ok.. got to work ont he 850 for about 4 hrs this am.

changed oil in crankcase and filter, cleaned air filter, drained and flushged trans, hyds, diffy and loader sumps.

loader was wet and trans had a lil water in the oil. diffy must have had 4 gallons of stinky gear oil in it... nearly ran out of drian pan.

none of the plugs gave me problems.. though the oil filter made me use a strap wrench on it.. crushed the filter removing it. not sure why some people think an oil filter needs to be THAT tight.

found the loader tag. can make out 2 bottom numbers.. lower number looks to be sn

sn 402

number above that is 28025.. can't tell what that is.. too much paint an wear.

tractor sn is 114XX making it an early 55.. funny. all my 00 series machines are 55's.. go figure..

didn't have time to mess with the front wheel stud. also need to install a lamp switch , and do some re-wire, plus wireing on the alternator.. it charges.. but wireing is cobbled. swapped to a new style uni-fit crank breather to fit with the new rad hose.

thats about it for today.

soundguy
 
   / some progress on the 850 #5  
SOUNDGUY,, I HAVE QUESTION FOR YOU , MY 850 IS SHUTTING OFF WHEN COIL GETS HOT, AFTER IT COOLS DOWN WILL RESTART BUT WHEN PULLING HARD IT GETS HOT AND SHUTS DOWN. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THANKS
 
   / some progress on the 850
  • Thread Starter
#6  
need particulars. 6v or 12v charge system battery?

6v or 12v coil?

any ignition resistors?

are you sure it is the coil shutting you down and not soemthing else like key switch contacts.. or loss of fuel?

IE.. do you have spark at stall if you jumper the key?

post back.

soundguy
 
   / some progress on the 850 #7  
SOUNDGUY ITS 6 VOLT, JUST REPLACED ALL WIRING,COIL, VOLTAGE REG., NEW BATTERY,DISTRIBITOR, POINTS PLUGS ,PLUG WIRES, KEY SWITCH,,, PREVIOUS OWNER HAD TROUBLE WITH IT CUTTING OUT ON HARD PULLS. NO RESINATORS,,, WIRED IT STRAIGHT OUT OF FORD WIRING DIAGRAM.. IT SARTS EASY AND RUNS GOOD,, BUT AFTER AWHILE THE COIL WARMS UP AND WILL SHUT OFF.
 
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   / some progress on the 850
  • Thread Starter
#8  
6v.. 850, no resistors, and a stock 6v coil in the stock location?

it's 99% not the coil heating up and cutting out unless the engine is overheating.

soundguy
 
   / some progress on the 850 #9  
Like Soundguy mentioned, I wonder if you might be "running out" of fuel? If there is a restriction in the tank or fuel line, you might be using more than is comming through the line. It could run from a minute or two, to several minutes, depending on the size of the restriction. This could make it run until the coil got warm.

Mike
 
   / some progress on the 850
  • Thread Starter
#10  
i agree. the 6v round coils are quite robust. I've bought tractors that were 12v and had the 6v coil.. the extra current was brutal on the points.. but these new oil filled oils disipate heat really well.. and it was taking it fine... I added a resistor and it took it even better :) still running on that coil in that tractor.. new points though.. :)

i HAVE seen key switch contacts heat up and cause loss of spark due to resistance though...

soundguy
 
 
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