1949 Ford 8N

   / 1949 Ford 8N #1  

kvan

New member
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Oct 11, 2011
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16
Tractor
Ford 8n
Hi,

Just a quick introduction, my name is Kyle and I just got my first tractor, a 1949 Ford 8n. I included some pictures and I will probably have lots of questions along the way. My first question is when I took off the PTO drive cap about 1/3cup of oil came out, does this mean the PTO seal is shot or is it over filled?

Thanks!
 

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   / 1949 Ford 8N
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Oh and the serial number is 8N247305 off the upper block of the engine
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N #3  
Welcome to TBN.

How much do you know about these old 8n's?? Are you familiar or a total rookie??

I have a few questions, suggestions, and tid-bits of info for ya....

First, I believe, based on your serial #, that it is a 1950 and NOT a 1949.

It is obviously a old tractor that does need some attention, but for starters I'll tell you what I like about it.

I like the adjustable 3PH arm that you can reach from the seat. This is a pretty desirable feature. It also has draft control, and appears to have decient rubber. Someone has also converted it to 12v.

Now, the things that need attention, that seal, just keep an eye on it. Because the PTO needed to run for the hydraulics to work. So that PTO could have been left on all the time. And if the tractor was used ALOT, 1/3 cup of oil aint bad. But If you do replace it, it is a quick and easy fix.

You also need to hook the air filter back up. You dont want to suck a bunch of dirt into that carb.

Feel free to ask any questions. But I am curious if it has a sherman (another desirable feature). You didnt give us a pic of the tractor from that side. The sherman will have a "dog-leg" lever that is located on the side roughly between the clutch pedal and starter.

And I didnt see if you mentioned, but I assume this tractor does run??
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N #4  
i see it has the original pto 1/18 shaft, not a replacement... also see a home made drawbar bracket, as well as a welded manifold.. non of wich are a immediate cause for concern as long as they work.

the pto shaft seal is a 15 minute fix.

if it is overfull, i'd worry more about oil on the brakes vs the pto.. I see the oem oil dipstick for the common sump rear end is gone and something else stuck in there.

with machine off, grab pto shaft and see if it has in / out play or side to side play.

if it has in / out play then it has a possible bad bearing, bad wear ring, slipped or broken circlip, or damaged bearing carrier.. if side to side play, then bad bearing. bad bearings will allow seals to hog out.. pto shafts with in / out play will eventually do 2 things, 1, mushroom the end of the shaft internally and make it hard to remove, 2, walk it out of engagement and eventually damage the pto shaft internal spline, and the sliding dog clutch.

if none of those are an issue and it is just a leaky seal, again.. 15 minute fix, and about 17$ for a new seal and gasket.. drain rear end oil ( 5 gallons - refill with 90wt gl1 / 3 oil, or 80w90 oil meeting the gl4 / 5 / mti spec that states it is yellow metal safe, or any UTF fluid meeting the M2C134 spec. ).. 4 bolts and you snatcht he assy out, rmove rear circlip, tap pto external stub end down on a pice of wood on the ground, bearing carrier and seal fall off the pto shaft and bearing assy, drive old seal out, drive new seal in, ( 2 -5/8 socket makes a great seal driver ), reseat by greasing seal lip and setting pto lone end down on a piece of wood onthe ground, short end with bearing facing up, set bearing carrier and new seal on top, then tap down witht he shaft ontothe wood and the shaft will seat into the seal and carrier.. reinstal circlip, clean flanges up for gasket, slip back in with new gasket, bolt down, add oil.. etc.


soundguy
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N
  • Thread Starter
#5  
So I am serious rookie when it comes to tractors. I have industrial mechanical experience, but no tractor knowledge. The man I purchased it from gave me the 2 min how to make it go forward and backward lecture and that's where it ends.

Thanks for the advice so far. I tried to move the PTO around but it seemed very solid. If the shaft seal is an easy fix, I might just do it anyways. I am including a picture of the actual PTO output, will this work on new 3 point attachments or are there adapters?

Kyle
 

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   / 1949 Ford 8N #6  
So I am serious rookie when it comes to tractors. I have industrial mechanical experience, but no tractor knowledge. The man I purchased it from gave me the 2 min how to make it go forward and backward lecture and that's where it ends.

Thanks for the advice so far. I tried to move the PTO around but it seemed very solid. If the shaft seal is an easy fix, I might just do it anyways. I am including a picture of the actual PTO output, will this work on new 3 point attachments or are there adapters?

Kyle

only way to tell is to messure the end of the pto shaft and see if it is 1 1/8 in or 1 3/8 in but they do make the adapter to go from the little shaft to the big shaft so it will work on all 540 spile equipment
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N #7  
only way to tell is to messure the end of the pto shaft and see if it is 1 1/8 in or 1 3/8 in but they do make the adapter to go from the little shaft to the big shaft so it will work on all 540 spile equipment

Correct here:thumbsup:

Another option, while you have it appart, IF it is only the 1-1/8 shaft, you can buy an upgrade shaft that is the 1-3/8 for around $120 and you never have to fool around with adapters. We have broke and twisted off too many adapters on dads 8n to trust them. He upgraded shafts. This was mainly when using the tiller.
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N #8  
The ID of that pto seal of the 1 1/8" shaft rides on a metal sleeve which is pressed onto the shaft. If their is a groove worn in the sleeve, where the seal rides, a new seal will still leak. I have also seen oil leak between the sleeve and the shaft. A new sleeve is available, but is a shrink fit to the shaft. If the sleeve does not have a groove, I'd replace the seal and bearing, and even the 2 circlips when disturbed. Make sure you add a little RTV on ID of housing for extra sealing when pressing seal into the housing. I like the idea of the 1 3/8" shaft replacement. Well worth the extra money and far less aggravation.
 
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   / 1949 Ford 8N #9  
NO RTV is needed onthe bering carrier.. it has a gasket to seal it's flange to the rear housing.

also.. new style pto shaft seals ride in a different spot than the old ones. so sometimes it is not a problem. seal ring replacement isn't too bad a job, or could even speedi sleave it if you wanted to.. or solder / braze it up and polish down. BTDT all work..

on the adapters.. there is a sheetmetal bushing that only increases the OD, but not the length.. I don't like those. there is a better stub adapter that increases the lenght and OD to that of a standard shaft.. those are much sturdier.

IMHO.. if the wear rin, bearing and seal are bad.. I'd get a new shaft assy.. etc.


soundguy
 
   / 1949 Ford 8N #10  
Someone saved you from dragging off the exhaust or buying those tin mufflers for underneith...But do put an air cleaner on the carb, if it hasn't already eaten the piston rings?
 
 
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